Prepping car for paint. What do you guys think???
07-05-2012, 11:32 AM
#1
Prepping car for paint. What do you guys think??? I'm prepping my car for paint and I wanted to get some opinions. It's being completely repainted from top to bottom (door jams, engine bay, trunk, etc, etc). Now that I have my twin turbo kit almost complete I'm going to start yanking out the motor and prepping the engine bay along with the door jams, doors, etc.
So far both 1/4 panels have been blocked and are ready for a few coats of high-fill primer. Door jams are all sanded down using 320 wet sandpaper. Next I'll be sanding down the entire engine bay, hood, trunk and doors.
Once the door jams, engine bay and the rest of the car is sanded here is the process I'm planning on using....
1. Spray the entire car (except bumpers & fenders) with 2 coats of high-fill primer. 1st coat will be blocked smooth just to make sure everything is straight as an arrow. The 2nd coat will be wet sanded with 800 grit sand paper. Once I confirm everything is good to go I'll go ahead and shoot a coat of sealer and start laying down some paint. Surface will be cleaned with wax and grease remover before any coat is applied.
2. The bumpers/fenders will be wet sanded with 400 grit followed by 600 grit. Then I'll clean the surface with wax/grease remover and shoot a coat of sealer to get ready for paint.
Day 1:
Once the car is covered in sealer I'll cover the entire car in plastic, this way no over spray will get on any part of the car. I'll shoot 3 coats of paint followed by 3 coats of clear.
Day 2:
I'll remove the plastic on the car and cover the engine bay. Then I'll mask off the 1/4 panels starting from the door jams, followed by the rest of the car. Mask off the outside of the doors, hood and trunk. After a quick wipe down with wax/grease remover I'll shoot 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear. Remove masking tape and let dry over night.
Day 3:
Install the doors, hood, trunk & fenders onto the car. Seal off all the body lines. (You know, where two body parts come together.) This way no paint or clear gets into the parts already painted. Give a quick wipe down with wax/grease remover and start laying down some base. After 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear I'll remove all the masking tape used to seal off all the body lines. Then let dry over night.
Day 4:
Remove the car from the garage and let it sit outside in the sun. While the car is sitting in the sun I'll paint the bumpers, spoiler and mirrors. Again wipe down the wax/grease remover and apply 3 coats of base/clear. Then I'll seal off the other side of the garage and paint the rear facial (the one that says CAMARO) and the trim piece that splits both T-tops. Apply 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear. I sealed off the other side of the garage since these parts are being painted black.
As for the color I'm going with Deep Impact Blue from the 2013 Mustang. Here's a picture...
http://blog.latemodelrestoration.com...stang-Hood.jpg
The black pieces will be a Mercedes black.
You might ask why 4 days to do all this. Well, my garage is only a 2 car garage so I only have so much room to work with. I'll also be building a temporary paint booth in it out of PVC pipe and some thick clear plastic tarp. I'll also be using 2 box fans w/ furnace filters pull all the exhaust out. Also, my garage reaches temps of at least 90 degrees when it's closed so I think it'll be warm enough.
Well guys, this is my plan of attach. I would like to hear your opinions. If I missed anything or if I should change something, please feel free to comment.
Thanks in advance and I'll be sure and post plenty of pics.
So far both 1/4 panels have been blocked and are ready for a few coats of high-fill primer. Door jams are all sanded down using 320 wet sandpaper. Next I'll be sanding down the entire engine bay, hood, trunk and doors.
Once the door jams, engine bay and the rest of the car is sanded here is the process I'm planning on using....
1. Spray the entire car (except bumpers & fenders) with 2 coats of high-fill primer. 1st coat will be blocked smooth just to make sure everything is straight as an arrow. The 2nd coat will be wet sanded with 800 grit sand paper. Once I confirm everything is good to go I'll go ahead and shoot a coat of sealer and start laying down some paint. Surface will be cleaned with wax and grease remover before any coat is applied.
2. The bumpers/fenders will be wet sanded with 400 grit followed by 600 grit. Then I'll clean the surface with wax/grease remover and shoot a coat of sealer to get ready for paint.
Day 1:
Once the car is covered in sealer I'll cover the entire car in plastic, this way no over spray will get on any part of the car. I'll shoot 3 coats of paint followed by 3 coats of clear.
Day 2:
I'll remove the plastic on the car and cover the engine bay. Then I'll mask off the 1/4 panels starting from the door jams, followed by the rest of the car. Mask off the outside of the doors, hood and trunk. After a quick wipe down with wax/grease remover I'll shoot 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear. Remove masking tape and let dry over night.
Day 3:
Install the doors, hood, trunk & fenders onto the car. Seal off all the body lines. (You know, where two body parts come together.) This way no paint or clear gets into the parts already painted. Give a quick wipe down with wax/grease remover and start laying down some base. After 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear I'll remove all the masking tape used to seal off all the body lines. Then let dry over night.
Day 4:
Remove the car from the garage and let it sit outside in the sun. While the car is sitting in the sun I'll paint the bumpers, spoiler and mirrors. Again wipe down the wax/grease remover and apply 3 coats of base/clear. Then I'll seal off the other side of the garage and paint the rear facial (the one that says CAMARO) and the trim piece that splits both T-tops. Apply 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear. I sealed off the other side of the garage since these parts are being painted black.
As for the color I'm going with Deep Impact Blue from the 2013 Mustang. Here's a picture...
http://blog.latemodelrestoration.com...stang-Hood.jpg
The black pieces will be a Mercedes black.
You might ask why 4 days to do all this. Well, my garage is only a 2 car garage so I only have so much room to work with. I'll also be building a temporary paint booth in it out of PVC pipe and some thick clear plastic tarp. I'll also be using 2 box fans w/ furnace filters pull all the exhaust out. Also, my garage reaches temps of at least 90 degrees when it's closed so I think it'll be warm enough.
Well guys, this is my plan of attach. I would like to hear your opinions. If I missed anything or if I should change something, please feel free to comment.
Thanks in advance and I'll be sure and post plenty of pics.
07-05-2012, 02:19 PM
#2
TECH Regular
For me I do not believe you need to go so fine on your final sand. 320 - 400 is always good for me especially if you are spraying a primer sealer on it.
After you use wax and grease remover make sure you wipe it completely down with a clean dry disposable shop towel. You know wax and grease remover on wax and grease remover off kind of thing.
When you load your gun up get a new tack cloth and go over the complete surface. Last thing you should be doing right before spraying.
One thing I do in my 2 car garage is wet down the floor before painting. Keeps dust and debris down as you walk around. Use a bucket of water and gently pour it down the sides where you will be walking. Use a squeegee if it is too sloppy.
On your first pass put down only a tack coat. By that I mean a coat that only partially covers the surface. When the "tacks" up (not stringy on your finger just sticky) you can start to pound on you next couple of coats.
Everyone has a way to do things and you will figure it out as you go. I am now painting my wife’s PT Loser. Here is the hood I painted Monday. That is one tack and three full wet coats. Good luck!!
After you use wax and grease remover make sure you wipe it completely down with a clean dry disposable shop towel. You know wax and grease remover on wax and grease remover off kind of thing.
When you load your gun up get a new tack cloth and go over the complete surface. Last thing you should be doing right before spraying.
One thing I do in my 2 car garage is wet down the floor before painting. Keeps dust and debris down as you walk around. Use a bucket of water and gently pour it down the sides where you will be walking. Use a squeegee if it is too sloppy.
On your first pass put down only a tack coat. By that I mean a coat that only partially covers the surface. When the "tacks" up (not stringy on your finger just sticky) you can start to pound on you next couple of coats.
Everyone has a way to do things and you will figure it out as you go. I am now painting my wife’s PT Loser. Here is the hood I painted Monday. That is one tack and three full wet coats. Good luck!!
07-05-2012, 03:01 PM
#3
For me I do not believe you need to go so fine on your final sand. 320 - 400 is always good for me especially if you are spraying a primer sealer on it.
After you use wax and grease remover make sure you wipe it completely down with a clean dry disposable shop towel. You know wax and grease remover on wax and grease remover off kind of thing.
When you load your gun up get a new tack cloth and go over the complete surface. Last thing you should be doing right before spraying.
One thing I do in my 2 car garage is wet down the floor before painting. Keeps dust and debris down as you walk around. Use a bucket of water and gently pour it down the sides where you will be walking. Use a squeegee if it is too sloppy.
On your first pass put down only a tack coat. By that I mean a coat that only partially covers the surface. When the "tacks" up (not stringy on your finger just sticky) you can start to pound on you next couple of coats.
Everyone has a way to do things and you will figure it out as you go. I am now painting my wife’s PT Loser. Here is the hood I painted Monday. That is one tack and three full wet coats. Good luck!!
After you use wax and grease remover make sure you wipe it completely down with a clean dry disposable shop towel. You know wax and grease remover on wax and grease remover off kind of thing.
When you load your gun up get a new tack cloth and go over the complete surface. Last thing you should be doing right before spraying.
One thing I do in my 2 car garage is wet down the floor before painting. Keeps dust and debris down as you walk around. Use a bucket of water and gently pour it down the sides where you will be walking. Use a squeegee if it is too sloppy.
On your first pass put down only a tack coat. By that I mean a coat that only partially covers the surface. When the "tacks" up (not stringy on your finger just sticky) you can start to pound on you next couple of coats.
Everyone has a way to do things and you will figure it out as you go. I am now painting my wife’s PT Loser. Here is the hood I painted Monday. That is one tack and three full wet coats. Good luck!!
You're right about using 800 grit for the primer. I just checked and you're right on the money recommending 320-400.
I have 3 rolls of the blue shop towels at my disposal so I should be good.
As for the method of spraying...ya I've heard the 1st coat is not intended for full coverage. As for the gun I'm planning on using, I bought this one. Not a PRO gun by any means but it should get the job done. http://www.harborfreight.com/profess...kit-94572.html
I like it because it comes with a 1.4 & 1.8 tip. I can use the 1.8 for the high-fill primer and 1.4 for the paint.
What size tip do you use for the base and clear coat?
07-05-2012, 03:17 PM
#4
TECH Regular
I have a gun for clears and colors at 1.4mm. I have a harbor freight gun with a 1.8 tip for the primers. I use a detail gun with a 1.0 tip for jams and small areas. It works great and lays glass flat but too small for a whole car. Any area I can not cut and buff I use the detail gun.
I have used a gun with a 1.3 tip but found I can not pound on the paint like I like. I would spend too much time fixing dry spots. Again I am sure some people may perfer that. It is whatever works for you.
I have used a gun with a 1.3 tip but found I can not pound on the paint like I like. I would spend too much time fixing dry spots. Again I am sure some people may perfer that. It is whatever works for you.
07-05-2012, 04:07 PM
#5
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brunswick Ga
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is how I would go about it not knowing the condition of your car if the door jams have scratches and such sand out with 400 prime 2 coats with 2k primer let dry sand with 600 and paint no need to seal unless u are using it to help cover but with 3 coats of paint u should be cover painting blue far as under hood I would not get into sanding and priming I would just scuff with a red 3m scotch pad clean and paint out side of the car I would apply 3 coats of 2k primer and block sand with 400 and Finnish sand with a da sander with 600 clean tape clean tack and apply paint/clear. sealer is a good way to hide fine scratches but will die back and cause your car to look dull and have alot of orange peel. Far as the clear I never put more than 2 coats 1 light full cover coat then let flash till touchable and 1 med wet coat after saying this I am not the best painter in the world but I can say that I'm a BMW certified paint tech and have been for 5 years. Any other questions I would love to help
07-05-2012, 05:53 PM
#6
I have a gun for clears and colors at 1.4mm. I have a harbor freight gun with a 1.8 tip for the primers. I use a detail gun with a 1.0 tip for jams and small areas. It works great and lays glass flat but too small for a whole car. Any area I can not cut and buff I use the detail gun.
I have used a gun with a 1.3 tip but found I can not pound on the paint like I like. I would spend too much time fixing dry spots. Again I am sure some people may perfer that. It is whatever works for you.
I have used a gun with a 1.3 tip but found I can not pound on the paint like I like. I would spend too much time fixing dry spots. Again I am sure some people may perfer that. It is whatever works for you.
Do you know if by any chance there are other tips out there that'll work on the harbor freight guns or are all tips designed differently and only work on certain guns?
This is how I would go about it not knowing the condition of your car if the door jams have scratches and such sand out with 400 prime 2 coats with 2k primer let dry sand with 600 and paint no need to seal unless u are using it to help cover but with 3 coats of paint u should be cover painting blue far as under hood I would not get into sanding and priming I would just scuff with a red 3m scotch pad clean and paint out side of the car I would apply 3 coats of 2k primer and block sand with 400 and Finnish sand with a da sander with 600 clean tape clean tack and apply paint/clear. sealer is a good way to hide fine scratches but will die back and cause your car to look dull and have alot of orange peel. Far as the clear I never put more than 2 coats 1 light full cover coat then let flash till touchable and 1 med wet coat after saying this I am not the best painter in the world but I can say that I'm a BMW certified paint tech and have been for 5 years. Any other questions I would love to help
How would you go about doing this? Say you have a Fbody that is primered dark gray from the doors back and then is primered white on the fenders and bumpers.
Thanks again guys for all your input.
Trending Topics
07-05-2012, 07:48 PM
#8
TECH Regular
I had the same Harbor Freight inter changable 1.4 to 1.8 gun you spoke of. It is now my full time primer surfacer gun with the 1.8 tip. I bought a little nicer gun for top coats. It's a Sharp Finex. Not a 500 dollar job by any stretch but it works good for me. I think gave about 100 bucks for it.
Yes seal the whole car reguardless. It is good insurance of an even color and can actually help hide some fine scratches.
Let me know how it turns out. Good luck!
Yes seal the whole car reguardless. It is good insurance of an even color and can actually help hide some fine scratches.
Let me know how it turns out. Good luck!
07-05-2012, 07:58 PM
#9
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brunswick Ga
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would save the money on the sealer and buy a really good base coat like Glasurit 90 line or Nexa autocolor those brand paints cover really well and don't need sealer and i would also suggest to use one of there clears they have really good uv protection so your life long project will never fade I always use a 1.3 hvlp gun for clear a 1.4 put a lil to much material out for me
07-06-2012, 11:01 AM
#10
I really want to know because I've already bought the gun I previously posted and I would take for it to go to waste? I can maybe use the big gun for my primer but can I use the smaller detail gun w/ the 1.0 tip for the jams and any tight areas?
07-06-2012, 07:36 PM
#13
TECH Regular
I'm curious to know, what makes the harbor freight guns so bad? Is it the limits of adjustability or something? Are the internal parts not machined very well, causing the gun to sputter?
I really want to know because I've already bought the gun I previously posted and I would take for it to go to waste? I can maybe use the big gun for my primer but can I use the smaller detail gun w/ the 1.0 tip for the jams and any tight areas?
I really want to know because I've already bought the gun I previously posted and I would take for it to go to waste? I can maybe use the big gun for my primer but can I use the smaller detail gun w/ the 1.0 tip for the jams and any tight areas?
07-07-2012, 03:35 PM
#15
Cheaper spray guns don't have as tight of tolerances which can effect atomization of the paint and can also let it suck air in places its not suppose to making it sputter.
I picked up a cheap paint gun, Campbell something, hell I don't remember. It's a killer gun from laying down primer. Last time I sprayed my friends Awatia gun was full of crap and I used the cheap gun to spray base/clear. It had a little more orange peal than I liked but I think was probably more me than the gun.
I picked up a cheap paint gun, Campbell something, hell I don't remember. It's a killer gun from laying down primer. Last time I sprayed my friends Awatia gun was full of crap and I used the cheap gun to spray base/clear. It had a little more orange peal than I liked but I think was probably more me than the gun.
