Nightrydass

No, this isn't a aerial view of a Volcano erupting from an airplane, this is the roof of my Jeep.

This spot is the only spot like this, and the worst of it; if you look at the upper left hand side you'll see some more cracking; I have 5 more little spots like that; the rest of the paint is fine. I know the only way to fix this "properly" is to strip the entire roof, but this truck is 7 years old with 105K, and was in two accidents; I don't plan on keeping this more than two more years, so I don't want to spend $1K+ to have it fixed. I want to repair the current damage, and stop it from getting worse, any additional spots that show up over time I'll deal with as needed. I'm also not worried about paint being out of shade due to age. What better vehicle to learn some body work on? lol

I figure the best way to do this is as follows, let me know if I miss anything:

1) sand spots down to bare metal
2) apply rust inhibitor
3) apply primer
4) apply paint (rattle-can). I know I need more than one coat, and I know that I can't put the coats on too thick or else it won't dry correctly.
5) apply clear
*I may or may not sand the clear*

did I miss anything? any other advice?

I'm so pissed off. It gets waxed. I wonder if water seeped through my sunroof/skylight seals and got in somehow...

Death trap

The only thing I might change is the paint. Rattle cans aren't normally the best for protecting bare metal or holding up to UV. If it were me I'd look into a HF hvlp spray gun, think there like $15, and some single stage paint (no clear needed). It would take alot of spray cans to paint the hole roof and spray cans aren't very cheep when it comes to the amount of actual paint thats in them.

Nightrydass

I'm not looking to spray the whole Roof, I'm just looking to take care of the specific areas; I was just saying that I know the "right way" is to spray the whole Roof. There is the area that is in the pics (5"x7"), and another area that's ~ 6"x12"; I just think a spray gun would be too much work. I know that MOPAR sells vehicle-specific touch-up paint in cans for about $13 each. Then again my buddy has a hvlp spray gun, so we'll see.

I'll check the kind of paint MOPAR has, if it's single-stage then all the better! My paint code is "DX8 - 4443609." I was actually going to ask if I should get single-stage or do a base/clear. I also see that they sell sandaled primer/rust inhibitor combo; that makes it even easier for me.

Should I start at 120 grit or 240 for sanding it to metal? I don't want to damage the metal so much that I have extra work to do so it doesn't show through the primer/paint. I know to finish it with 400 grit before I lay the basecoat

Lt1Son

iTrader: (2)

all depends---120-240 to start you will have alot of sanding to do depending on how you want it to look---id start with 320 and see how that does--if its not doing the job id do 180/320 apply a good self etching primer resand with 320 and then apply a good sealer primer over the top before you paint it---all can be done with aerosal cans---go to your local autobody supply shop and have them mix you up a rattle can of factory color and buy this clear http://repaintsupply.com/spraymax-2-...oat-p3685.html i have used this on numerous things including motorcycle frames/fenders/fairings---it has the activator and hardner built in and is a top notch product-------im not a professional bodyman but i do all of my own so if anyone has better advice please dont flame me--thanks good luck

Lt1Son

iTrader: (2)

also depending on how bad the rust is after you sand it you may need to lay a coat of filler down also to make it nice and smooth sand that also with 320 then apply another light coat and finish it with 400 before final prime/paint-- can knock it down with 180 but still have to sand with 320/400 so you dont see sand scrathes in ur paint...unless you have a air comp then the right way i feel would be to DA the bad spots with the same sandpaper setup and just get a red scuff pad and scuff rest of roof and basecoat/clearcoat roof

Nightrydass

thank you so much!

Nightrydass

so use this http://www.zoro.com/i/G1090433/?category=6525, then this http://www.zoro.com/g/00060678/k-G04...FXNo7AodImQA3A, then basecoat; correct?

I don't think I'll need a Filler; I appears to be surface rust; i'm going to prep the bare surface with this http://www.zoro.com/g/00094921/k-G35...FZRj7AodO2IAbA before I apply any primer so that the Primer sticks correctly to the metal.

Lt1Son

iTrader: (2)

No i wouldnt use any rust inhibitor---id get it to metal like you plan on doing and then get a good sealer primer--the company that makes the clear i showed you also makes primer as well with selaer/hardner in it--thats all you need--if the rust is into the metal its like cancer the only right way to do it is to patch in new metal---just get a good sealer/primer and you should be all set

Lt1Son

iTrader: (2)

also get some good prepsol (wax n grease remover) before you paint-wipe it down until its dry

Nightrydass

understood, thank you again!