Removing Glue from bumper anyone?
07-26-2014, 06:11 PM
#1
Removing Glue from bumper anyone? Hey guys.
I'm removing my CME Valance from my car and the body shop used what seems to be like industrial glue to keep the valance to the bumper. Well now i'm trying to find something that would take off this black glue. I tried heating it up and it doesn't seem to affect it much. Just curious if anyone has tired anything and had some success. Might I add the 3M tape that was on there comes off fairly simple.
Thanks,
Ray
I'm removing my CME Valance from my car and the body shop used what seems to be like industrial glue to keep the valance to the bumper. Well now i'm trying to find something that would take off this black glue. I tried heating it up and it doesn't seem to affect it much. Just curious if anyone has tired anything and had some success. Might I add the 3M tape that was on there comes off fairly simple.
Thanks,
Ray
07-27-2014, 10:34 AM
#3
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Is the glue hard or soft? If it is soft, you can get an eraser wheel and put it in a drill. http://3mauto.com/3m-adhesive-eraser-wheel-03612.html
08-04-2014, 05:38 PM
#5
Staging Lane
Can you chip it off at all? Without removing the clear, of course. If it is a "hard" industrial glue there is a good chance that any solvent that would affect it would damage your clear coat. It's worth trying an adhesive removal solution, but I wouldn't hold out much hope of that helping.
09-04-2014, 08:13 PM
#7
Always try the least aggressive methods first. When that doesn't work time for the solvents.
For the solvents first try mineral spirits, it's oily and evaporates slowly but is not as aggressive as say lacquer thinner or toluene (is in most lacquer thinner's). Put it on a clean brand new shop towel to avoid scratching the clear coat, wear gloves, rub on etc.
If mineral spirits doesn't work buy lacquer thinner. Be careful with the lacquer thinner if left on to long it can cause problems, good thing is lacquer thinner evaporates extremely fast, so you won't have much time to leave it on the clear coat. Lacquer thinner can mare the clear coat, so only apply to the adhesive if possiable and don't use to much pressure. Wear chemical gloves and get a respirator.
Seriously buy a 3M painting respirator from Lowes. If not you will be so sky high you won't know what the hells going on. There's a reason they card you when you buy it.
This is what my body shop told me to use for the solvents. I have some Meguiar's Professional masking tape that I left on way to long after a detail and it still won't all come off, so ill be wet sanding with 1500 then 3000 very soon. Will try 3000 first though.
For the solvents first try mineral spirits, it's oily and evaporates slowly but is not as aggressive as say lacquer thinner or toluene (is in most lacquer thinner's). Put it on a clean brand new shop towel to avoid scratching the clear coat, wear gloves, rub on etc.
If mineral spirits doesn't work buy lacquer thinner. Be careful with the lacquer thinner if left on to long it can cause problems, good thing is lacquer thinner evaporates extremely fast, so you won't have much time to leave it on the clear coat. Lacquer thinner can mare the clear coat, so only apply to the adhesive if possiable and don't use to much pressure. Wear chemical gloves and get a respirator.
Seriously buy a 3M painting respirator from Lowes. If not you will be so sky high you won't know what the hells going on. There's a reason they card you when you buy it.
This is what my body shop told me to use for the solvents. I have some Meguiar's Professional masking tape that I left on way to long after a detail and it still won't all come off, so ill be wet sanding with 1500 then 3000 very soon. Will try 3000 first though.
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09-13-2014, 07:39 PM
#11
On The Tree
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Is it in a large piece, like built up In a big clump or just small scattered pieces?
You could use lacquer thinner or paint reducer. Both are very aggressive and will leave the paint dull where it was used, but all you'll have to do is polish that area afterwards.
If it's in a large chunk, use a razor blade and shave it down until it nearly gone, just be careful not to hit your paint.
Btw yes this does work, I do it regularly.
You could use lacquer thinner or paint reducer. Both are very aggressive and will leave the paint dull where it was used, but all you'll have to do is polish that area afterwards.
If it's in a large chunk, use a razor blade and shave it down until it nearly gone, just be careful not to hit your paint.
Btw yes this does work, I do it regularly.
09-13-2014, 08:19 PM
#12
09-15-2014, 08:47 PM
#13
Always try the least aggressive methods first. When that doesn't work time for the solvents.
For the solvents first try mineral spirits, it's oily and evaporates slowly but is not as aggressive as say lacquer thinner or toluene (is in most lacquer thinner's). Put it on a clean brand new shop towel to avoid scratching the clear coat, wear gloves, rub on etc.
If mineral spirits doesn't work buy lacquer thinner. Be careful with the lacquer thinner if left on to long it can cause problems, good thing is lacquer thinner evaporates extremely fast, so you won't have much time to leave it on the clear coat. Lacquer thinner can mare the clear coat, so only apply to the adhesive if possiable and don't use to much pressure. Wear chemical gloves and get a respirator.
Seriously buy a 3M painting respirator from Lowes. If not you will be so sky high you won't know what the hells going on. There's a reason they card you when you buy it.
This is what my body shop told me to use for the solvents. I have some Meguiar's Professional masking tape that I left on way to long after a detail and it still won't all come off, so ill be wet sanding with 1500 then 3000 very soon. Will try 3000 first though.
For the solvents first try mineral spirits, it's oily and evaporates slowly but is not as aggressive as say lacquer thinner or toluene (is in most lacquer thinner's). Put it on a clean brand new shop towel to avoid scratching the clear coat, wear gloves, rub on etc.
If mineral spirits doesn't work buy lacquer thinner. Be careful with the lacquer thinner if left on to long it can cause problems, good thing is lacquer thinner evaporates extremely fast, so you won't have much time to leave it on the clear coat. Lacquer thinner can mare the clear coat, so only apply to the adhesive if possiable and don't use to much pressure. Wear chemical gloves and get a respirator.
Seriously buy a 3M painting respirator from Lowes. If not you will be so sky high you won't know what the hells going on. There's a reason they card you when you buy it.
This is what my body shop told me to use for the solvents. I have some Meguiar's Professional masking tape that I left on way to long after a detail and it still won't all come off, so ill be wet sanding with 1500 then 3000 very soon. Will try 3000 first though.
This is also a really good way to removed the last, hard to get off double sided tape after you remove an emblem.
09-16-2014, 12:25 AM
#14
I've done that. Use an old MF disc on a polisher and some 105/300 compound. This is the easiest what I've found. The tape will gum up the sand paper and won't do much. MF is designed to grab and hold. Discard the MF disc afterwards because it will have the adhesive bonded to it.
This is also a really good way to removed the last, hard to get off double sided tape after you remove an emblem.
This is also a really good way to removed the last, hard to get off double sided tape after you remove an emblem.
2 months, and the adhesive is hard as a rock and no longer gummy. The lacquer thinner melted all the tape off, but the adhesive left behind is bonded to the clear coat and rock hard.My main concern is the adhesive is right by the edge around the rear hatch glass and I'm going to have to be extremely careful not to burn through that thin edge of clear coat while correcting the adhesive.
I'm going to wet sand the entire car to get all the orange peel out, but man I'm going to have to be so careful close to that edge where all the adhesive is baked on.
I have both M105 and Menzerna FG400 for compounds, I will try the M105 on MF disk, but I honestly think wet sanding with 3M 1500-3000 Trizact is my best option as I already will be wet sanding every inch of orange peel on the rest of the car.
11-04-2014, 02:47 AM
#16
The tape I left on got baked in the Texas heat for 2 months, and the adhesive is hard as a rock and no longer gummy. The lacquer thinner melted all the tape off, but the adhesive left behind is bonded to the clear coat and rock hard.
My main concern is the adhesive is right by the edge around the rear hatch glass and I'm going to have to be extremely careful not to burn through that thin edge of clear coat while correcting the adhesive.
I'm going to wet sand the entire car to get all the orange peel out, but man I'm going to have to be so careful close to that edge where all the adhesive is baked on.
I have both M105 and Menzerna FG400 for compounds, I will try the M105 on MF disk, but I honestly think wet sanding with 3M 1500-3000 Trizact is my best option as I already will be wet sanding every inch of orange peel on the rest of the car.
2 months, and the adhesive is hard as a rock and no longer gummy. The lacquer thinner melted all the tape off, but the adhesive left behind is bonded to the clear coat and rock hard.My main concern is the adhesive is right by the edge around the rear hatch glass and I'm going to have to be extremely careful not to burn through that thin edge of clear coat while correcting the adhesive.
I'm going to wet sand the entire car to get all the orange peel out, but man I'm going to have to be so careful close to that edge where all the adhesive is baked on.
I have both M105 and Menzerna FG400 for compounds, I will try the M105 on MF disk, but I honestly think wet sanding with 3M 1500-3000 Trizact is my best option as I already will be wet sanding every inch of orange peel on the rest of the car.