casias

iTrader: (1)

Happy Holiday!

I have a Saturday morning question. I am working on a 2005 Pontiac GTO, replacing damaged hood and fender.

I have a fender that had a couple of layers of paint. I sanded it down with 220 grit DA, did a small amount of body filler on one spot, primered with 2k, sanded with 400, applied basecoat and clearcoat.

It came out good, but turns out it was the wrong blue. There are two blues that year for the GTO, and as luck would have it, I bought 24 Impulse Metalic when I needed 28 Midnight Blue Mica.

I have the right basecoat now. When can I repaint and what grit do I sand with?

Any info would be appreciated, and everything is better with pictures. Here is a picture.

Thanks

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

If the fresh paint is good, (Ie. No flaws that you want to take out) Go over it with 800 and apply the new base color and clear.

96famaro

Just use a scuff pad or 600 wet sand make quick work of it. I don't know why they would have mixed it so off color like that. If you have a good paint mixer, they should be able to get close color without having to worry about blending. Advantage you have is a darker color. It will hide the color tone more and make it where you can get away without blending.

Gus_Mahn

iTrader: (1)

I agree. 600 grit it or grey scotchbrite with scuff-it sanding paste. Hard to tell in the picture but your clear looks like it has a lot of orange peel to me. You could move a little slower, hold the gun a little closer to the panel, use more air pressure, or use a slower reducer.

casias

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Just learning how to set up my gun, and I used reducer that they gave me at NAPA. It is "warm reducer".

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I am not a body guy. But I've seen ALOT of "show cars" come through a certain shop. they had a really neat trick for getting the orange peel out of the clear coat without too much care. The painter would lay down the clear extra thick, and once it was all done/dry, they had a guy come along with a razor blade and literally scrape the surface of the car all over to flatten the clear, followed of course by a wetsand/buff.

Quick Ranger

iTrader: (2)

I'd knock down the orange peel with 600 grit(wet), then re-base/clear.

GMW96

What kind of gun are you using and clear coat?

deebee

casias, I have my autbody ticket and specialized in refinishing. Granted it has been many years since I stepped foot in a shop as I quit for health reasons but the theory should still be the same.

If it were my car, I would wet sand it with 1200 grit paper, or even a white scuff pad. You don't need to prime or seal it again and the paint is fresh enough the basecoat should bite into the clear and not peel.

Couple things to be careful about is to make sure you wet sand it. If you dry sand it, you may find the clear "gummy" and it might ball up on the paper and actually gouge the clear and show up in the repaint. Fresh paint is way easier to wet sand then dry sand.

Also, make sure you do not sand through the clearcoat or any edges or the basecoat may wrinkle on you. That could turn out to be a night mare.

I assume the part wasn't baked so it will still be soft so you have to be super careful as a very wet basecoat when you repaint it may wrinkle the clear. That would be my worry.

My experience is with petroleum based products, not waterborne so YMMV.