O2 problems
#1
O2 problems
Attached are two files from HP Tuners: DTCs and scan after getting 2 brand new 13111 bosch sensors in.
The scan showed me that my bank 2 was reaching as high as 20%! All I smell is fuel. It's nauseating to even drive the car. I don't know what more to do
These are codes the car has been throwing:
P0133 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)
p1153 - Manufacturer control fuel air metering
p0155 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
It hasn't thrown them yet with the new sensors in. But it did throw a premature DTC which you'll see in the attached file. I also haven't put but maybe 2 miles on these new sensors.
The scan showed me that my bank 2 was reaching as high as 20%! All I smell is fuel. It's nauseating to even drive the car. I don't know what more to do
These are codes the car has been throwing:
P0133 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)
p1153 - Manufacturer control fuel air metering
p0155 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
It hasn't thrown them yet with the new sensors in. But it did throw a premature DTC which you'll see in the attached file. I also haven't put but maybe 2 miles on these new sensors.
#3
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I don't have HP so can't open the files but are you saying your fuel trims on one side are hitting 20%? If so is it possible you have an exhaust leak near the 02's, or upstream where they bolt to the heads?
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#8
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Tune the car in open loop and ditch every O2 sensor in the car. That's the easiest way to never have to worry about another stupid O2 related issue. Use the bungs in the headers for a wideband when you tune the car, and then take it out, and plug the hole.
If you buy your own wideband, you can easily stick the sensor in the header every now and then to make sure the tune is o.k., and that's it.
If you buy your own wideband, you can easily stick the sensor in the header every now and then to make sure the tune is o.k., and that's it.
#11
Tune the car in open loop and ditch every O2 sensor in the car. That's the easiest way to never have to worry about another stupid O2 related issue. Use the bungs in the headers for a wideband when you tune the car, and then take it out, and plug the hole.
If you buy your own wideband, you can easily stick the sensor in the header every now and then to make sure the tune is o.k., and that's it.
If you buy your own wideband, you can easily stick the sensor in the header every now and then to make sure the tune is o.k., and that's it.
#12
Race your car!
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That's what I mean, they're nothing more then a PITA, tune that thing in open loop, watch your mpg go up about 15%, and the power increase wil be great, nevermind the fact that you won't need to be adjusting the tuneup every 6 months like 99% of teh cars really need to run 100%.
I did it to my car 3 years ago, and we haven't done **** to the tune ever since other then make some timing adjustments in an attempt to go faster.
I did it to my car 3 years ago, and we haven't done **** to the tune ever since other then make some timing adjustments in an attempt to go faster.
#13
Is there anything I can do to fix this problem without tuning it into open loop or o2 sims? I've sealed all places with sealer meant for exhaust by permatex. Everything is tight. No exhaust leaks. I know the slow response is usually from the o2s not being able to reach a high enough temperature.
I have stock mufflers on there at the moment with a cutout that dumps the exhaust before them. I thought if I kept everything closed it would fix the slow response so that it could retain more heat with more back pressure. It still throws the same code. The o2s are brand new and are not melted anywhere.
What else should I check? The tune won't cause this right? I do get hesitation from the car when I'm driving it under lower RPMs (1000-2200) and sometimes higher (2200-3400). The hesitation is as if it's not getting enough fuel and the motor wants to cut off. I'm sure this is from the o2s right? I also reset the code within HP Tuners then tried to drive the car and the hesitation was there again. And it's usually doing this only when the car sits running. Probably because there is tons of unburnt fuel? The car doesn't hesitate after I've been driving it unless the codes come back.
I have stock mufflers on there at the moment with a cutout that dumps the exhaust before them. I thought if I kept everything closed it would fix the slow response so that it could retain more heat with more back pressure. It still throws the same code. The o2s are brand new and are not melted anywhere.
What else should I check? The tune won't cause this right? I do get hesitation from the car when I'm driving it under lower RPMs (1000-2200) and sometimes higher (2200-3400). The hesitation is as if it's not getting enough fuel and the motor wants to cut off. I'm sure this is from the o2s right? I also reset the code within HP Tuners then tried to drive the car and the hesitation was there again. And it's usually doing this only when the car sits running. Probably because there is tons of unburnt fuel? The car doesn't hesitate after I've been driving it unless the codes come back.
#14
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Attached are two files from HP Tuners: DTCs and scan after getting 2 brand new 13111 bosch sensors in.
The scan showed me that my bank 2 was reaching as high as 20%! All I smell is fuel. It's nauseating to even drive the car. I don't know what more to do
These are codes the car has been throwing:
P0133 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)
p1153 - Manufacturer control fuel air metering
p0155 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
The scan showed me that my bank 2 was reaching as high as 20%! All I smell is fuel. It's nauseating to even drive the car. I don't know what more to do
These are codes the car has been throwing:
P0133 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)
p1153 - Manufacturer control fuel air metering
p0155 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction