thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so as stated my car runs in open loop only and if I use a scanner to force closed loop it runs very poorly.

I do know that for some reason the mail order tune tuned out 3 o2 sensors instead of just 2, so one of my fronts does not work. Its readings do move some though like the 2 rears do, in the 450-500 range. I tried a new o2, moved the known working one from side to side, and switched plugs so that the pass side harness plugged into the non working one and nothing changed...which is why I'm concluding its been tuned out (possibly by mistake).

Is this anything to be concerned about in the immediate future or is it ok like this?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

the only thing "tuned out" are error codes; they are still very much functional and needed if not tuned for OL.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

You probably have an open in the signal return circuit. Could be as simple as a female pin in the connector that's opened up, or it could be a break in the wire somewhere.

As Frost stated, you don't really tune them out, you just turn off the codes. If it's plugged in it should work.

Most likely the reason it's running shitty is because the fuel trims are going nuts on one side trying to force the 02s to move.

A run log would help diagnose it.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

hmm So what should I do to fix it?

I am throwing a code for low activity in o2 bank 1 sensor 1, but I didn't know what else to try

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

First thing is to find out if the female pins are tight enough. Best way is to use a male pin, and stick it in the female pins in the connector one at a time, and drag it back and forth a little. You should be able to buy replacement pins from your local dealer. Just stick it in each female pin and make sure it feels tight.

Then, if they all feel OK, you'll need to make up a long jumper wire, with one of those male replacement pins crimped on the end. You'll want the wire to be about 8 feet long. Slip the pin in the female pin of the signal return wire, string the wire out from under the car. Strip the other end of the wire back an inch or so. With your scanner on, monitoring the 02 on that side, hold the bare wire in one hand, and with the other hand, touch the ground side of the car. Bat cable, metal bracket, anything. The 02 should go to zero. Then touch positive. Bat cable, junction connector, anything 12 volts. The voltage should go to a little over 1 volt. You're using your body as a resistor.

This is one of the easiest ways to test for an open circuit. If you do not see both zero and +1 volts, you have an open. If it were shorted to ground, you would see zero volts all the time. Because you're seeing 450-500mv, chances are there's an open or bad connection at the connector.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

First you have to delete the existing O2 codes and reset the
fuel trims. This should make your closed loop start off like
open loop. It will also make the PCM "let go of the O2" and
quit forcing it to midrange. Then you can observe the O2
activity for what it is, see if it is acting similarly, just a bit
worse than the working one or just dead (if you have a
scan tool to record it). If you see activity, just lazy, at
least you know the signal wiring is OK.

You can remove the O2 sensor, reconnect the harness
and look at the voltage (meter or scan tool) as you play
a propane torch over the business end. Leave the key on
for a bit (from a cold sensor initially) and you can tell if
the heater is heating. Poor boy diagnostics for the wiring
path and basic function.

The heater, activity, switching type codes can be deleted
when necessary but they are your first indicator that the
PCM finds the O2 performance wanting.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

they are metripack 150 terminals.
http://www.lsxtune.com/shop/product_...roducts_id/485

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (8)

I had 3 NEW bosch o2 sensors in a row be bad out of the box.
A bad o2 or one not getting a reading will do exaclty what your car is doing when forced in to closed loop.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-l...driver-o2.html

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

thanks guys I'll try to give it a look

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

if you look at the plug with the clip on top the 2 left pins should be 5v judging my the working one, top right is dead, and bottom right is 12v

on the non working one bottom left does not have 5v, checked the 2 rear o2 and one of them is hot so it looks like I had a bad pinout sheet when I did my harness and unplugged the wrong wire from the pcm plug

does anyone know for sure which pin is for driver front so I can check this?

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

Look up the B1S1 codes on gearchatter, and they should have a wiring diagram. Or, go to Advanced Auto and buy the ALLDATA diagram.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I looked over a different pinout that was in the conversion section, the 2 driver side are pin 68 and 69 and I managed to unplug the wrong one. Plugged the pin back into the harness and it works great.

Car will actually idle right after a rev and seems like its leaning itself out some. Sounds a lot cleaner running and drives a bit better at part throttle, roads are too wet for any serious playing.

I also cleaned the MAF sensor at the same time so that could have helped but I doubt it because it looked clean before I sprayed it.