JScamaro

iTrader: (6)

I recently had a cam, heads, tripple disk converter, zo6 maf, fast intake, Racetronix fuel injectors, Racetronix fuel pump, and a built 4L60E installed on my '02 Camaro.

It drives around great once I get it started and warmed up but I've had two issues.

1. The car dies when I try to put it in gear on a cold start (drive and reverse). It drove fine on the way home when I picked the car up but when I tried to drive it another day I couldn't get it out of the garage without giving it some gas to get the rpm's up then putting it in reverse at the same time so it would not die.

2. The car will intermittently not start when the engine is warm or cold. I can hear it try to turn over but it does not start. After waiting 30-60 sec it will start right up.

I've had the shop that did the install try some more tuning but in the end it still does the same thing.

Any thought or suggestions on what may be the cause of this?

Thanks

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

Idle is one of the hardest parts of the tune to get right... especially for automatics with a relatively tight stall. Its in the tune, but you may have trouble finding someone who can get it right. Sounds like you may have a fuel pickup issue too with it not wanting to start without cycling the fuel pump when it has sat for awhile. Are you sure the pump was installed correctly?

JScamaro

iTrader: (6)

I had the fuel pump installed by one of the most reputable shops in Texas. I can only assume it has been installed correctly.

It starts maybe 50% of the time. Other times I have to let it sit for a minute then crank it up again. I can have them check it out once I go back to their shop.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Point 1 is more than likely tune related. As mentioned above the second issue is probably fuel delivery related. Have you verified the fuel pressure at the rail? If not, you need to do this first to ensure the engine is receiving a consistent 55-60 psi at the rail.

JScamaro

iTrader: (6)

I have a fuel pressure gauge on my gauge pod. With the key in the "on" position it reads 45 psi but when I'm driving it reads 60-62 psi.

Should I have full pressure with the key in the "on" position but the car not yet started?

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

I just have a stock pump still with a FP gauge on the rail, but I see high 50's whether started or just primed. This sounds like a shitty problem to be having, sorry man.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Check the fuel pressure at the rail with a mechanical test gauge to ensure the gauge reading is correct. 55-60 psi is the pressure for all operating conditions. You may have turn the ignition ON and OFF a couple times to get the pressure up to the correct psi, but it should hold it after that. You also need to check the pressure at idle as well.

02' hawk

iTrader: (6)

My car does not start sometimes and i would change the starter relay to the ign relay and it would start then (the 2 side by side under the hood; don't quote me on the labeling of the relays). Try that next time it won't start. Might be a relay going bad?

JScamaro

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to check the fuel pressure when I get some time off. I'm trying to do a little research online and seeing what the car is doing before I take it in to have them look at it.

Thanks for the reply's so far.

nj02vette

iTrader: (2)

I'd suggest looking at the default airflow tables. The idle routines run in open loop until the ECT gets to a certain value, then goes into closed loop (adaptive idle routine). If your airflow is not within a reasonable range, car will stall. Once it gets warmed up, adaptive idle takes over and tries to make moving corrections.
Yes it is....

JScamaro

iTrader: (6)

Just to give an update on this. It ended up being the ignition relay. Once this was replaced it fixed the stalling issues and starts up every time now.