LC1 issue....STUMPED!
04-13-2009, 07:05 PM
#1
LC1 issue....STUMPED! Ive had an LC1 in my car for a couple years along with the Dynotune A/F gauge.All of a sudden it stopped working right.On startup it would display 9.9:1 A/F and after warmed up it would jump from 10-17:1.I did the test on the gauge(connecting wires on gauge to power and it was between 120-150 which shows the gauge is working).
I replaced the O2 sensor and got the same thing.I also borrowed someones LM1 using the same sensor and the A/F was normal.SO....reason would have it that its the LC1 controller.I just installed a new 1 per the instructions.
Red on controller and brown on gauge=switched 12V source
blue and white on controller and blue on gauge= tied together to a chassis ground
black wire on gauge and yellow wire on controller tied together.
I just started it up and get the same 9.9A/F.Any help is MUCH appreciated!
I replaced the O2 sensor and got the same thing.I also borrowed someones LM1 using the same sensor and the A/F was normal.SO....reason would have it that its the LC1 controller.I just installed a new 1 per the instructions.
Red on controller and brown on gauge=switched 12V source
blue and white on controller and blue on gauge= tied together to a chassis ground
black wire on gauge and yellow wire on controller tied together.
I just started it up and get the same 9.9A/F.Any help is MUCH appreciated!
04-14-2009, 07:29 AM
#2
FormerVendor
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That Blue (heater Ground wire) to the chassis is most likely the culprit. There is a lot of noise on the chassis including the starter everytime you fire up the car. This can lead to the demise of the A to D chip on your LC-1. It might not happen right away but give it time... Do you still have the old LC-1? It can be repaired most likely. Try routing your heater ground to the engine block.
04-14-2009, 07:59 AM
#4
That Blue (heater Ground wire) to the chassis is most likely the culprit. There is a lot of noise on the chassis including the starter everytime you fire up the car. This can lead to the demise of the A to D chip on your LC-1. It might not happen right away but give it time... Do you still have the old LC-1? It can be repaired most likely. Try routing your heater ground to the engine block.
04-15-2009, 07:15 PM
#7
Been here, yet?? Looks like alot of LC1 posts...
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...splay.php?f=10
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...splay.php?f=10
Trending Topics
04-18-2009, 09:56 AM
#9
TECH Regular
"blue and white on controller and blue on gauge= tied together to a chassis ground"
Thats the problem right there. Your not supposed to put them to a chassis ground it should be on the block. You need a clean ground on the LC1 or it is going to do strange things. It's been repeated multipule times that the chassis grounds have noise from the starter and other grounds on the chassis. Maybe your ground finally got dirty or noisy enough to cause an issue. I put my grounds on a transmission bolt and have had 0 problems with my LC1 for over a year now.
Move them to a block grounding and see what it does.
Thats the problem right there. Your not supposed to put them to a chassis ground it should be on the block. You need a clean ground on the LC1 or it is going to do strange things. It's been repeated multipule times that the chassis grounds have noise from the starter and other grounds on the chassis. Maybe your ground finally got dirty or noisy enough to cause an issue. I put my grounds on a transmission bolt and have had 0 problems with my LC1 for over a year now.
Move them to a block grounding and see what it does.
04-18-2009, 03:17 PM
#11
I redid all of my gauges/LC1 wiring including my other gauges using terminal blocks for ease of use and so i can try different things.1 thing i noticed was that the old LC1 had a green wire and the new 1 didnt.I believe its because they had a seperate Analog ground and the blue wire was supposed to be isolated grounds from 1 another based on what dynotune told me.Im going to try to move the ground straight to the block or battery - terminal to rule that out. Its so weird since both controllers suddenly did the same strange thing and it reads screwy on the gauge as well as the laptop when hooked up.Ill report back asap when i try regrounding.
04-18-2009, 04:58 PM
#12
FormerVendor
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Which error?
8 or 9?
If it is sensor timing (8) then I would try powering up the lc-1 with no sensor connected. This will erase the resistor data in the lc-1 (the LSU4 sensor which all are "unique,"-read: they are not a ultra precision type to keep cost down) and force a full re-cal. The next time you power up the lc-1 with the new sensor attached it will check the unique resistor value of the new sensor and free air cal.
Whenever you change out a sensor always perform the aforementioned procedure.
BTW, I would not recomend grounding on the batt post if at all possible. Once again the back of the head is the preferred grounding point.
04-19-2009, 01:56 PM
#13
I'm almost sure it's error 9 or even like 50... I can go key-on the car after a few, one of them is still in it. I always turned it on with no sensor when I swapped them. They are all new that I move over to my LM1 box and use after it declares them bad.
