1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

Ok guys i recently installed a rearmount turbo and im trying to get my 2Bar SD tune done.

Well i can drive the car for an hour logging hitting as many cells as possible and multiply by percent. EASY RIGHT? HELL NO i do it then I go and drive the car after i flash and its off again? WTF! Im starting to go crazy ive spent 10 or more hours logging and im still way off!

I checked the wideband O2 and double checked it was calibrated right.

Checked my tune and scanner seem ok to me (but im not 100% sure)

Im just thinking after that much logging the ve should be tuned by now!

I would appreciate any help guys!

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

just a question, but do you reset the fuel trims after you upload a new tune? if not, then it takes into account all the previous fuel corrections from all of your logging time.

macca_779

I would hope the trims are off in which case it doesn't matter as you aren't using them

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

i just looked at his file. LTFT are turned off and closed loop and MAF is disabled. so, he's doing a OLSD tune.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

i looked over the VE table. right now it looks like the smokey mountains. you need to take those peaks out and manually smooth the table.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

If you can't hold a load-point steady, your data-pile
will be full of transitional junk that doesn't really
match up to anything. You can try and filter for
cell-count but may end up just getting nothing
for cells that are only passed through briefly in
the drive cycle you took.

The easy way is not necessarily going to give you
good data, and tracking to bad data isn't going
to help the tune. You may be better off going at
it "old school", like do some 1/4, 1/2, full throttle
straight pulls and use the "snippets" to adjust the
table where the real points fall, and them move
neighbor cells "by eye" to follow sensibly. Takes
a lot more time and attention, but using data you
believe in is probably better than mystery chunks.

1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

thanks for the replies guys... I know ve is all crazy. nothing seems to be progressive after I paste from the log so im not quite sure how to smooth it.

so how much will the temp change my tune? because there was about a 50 degree change from when I started to when I gave up.

to tune the boost areas do I just go wot a bunch of times to get a bunch of cell hits or is there a trick?

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

temps will change the tune considerably. i would log on my way to work in the morning and then on the way home. the VE would sway around 7 points.

for now, what i would do is smooth the VE table by taking the spikes out. you'll see them. use the 3D graph when looking at the VE table while looking at the chart. then just tune the normal driving part of the table 0 -105kph. once you have that area done, then start doing some driving while it's going under boost.

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

Yes, those temperature swings will not give you an accurate VE Table.

In reality a dyno would be best, but short of that do your logging very early in the morning and on a long flat road (no elevation changes).

You are probably not up for this method after so many hours of logging, but sometimes it is interesting to simultaneously log MAF (g/s) and 'dynamic' air in g/s. Graph them using Excel or your tuning software histogram.

Then compare. It is amazing how many VE Table 'spikes' smooth out when you look at them two-dimensionally, or drop the VE % display. The point of comparing against MAF flow is to just apply a 'sanity check', and see if your VE Table airflow in g/s matches.

I think JimmyBlue's method has some pluses. Sometimes you have to do something different or you are just going to have tuning and logging as your new career.

Until someone can mathematically construct a VE Table easily, I admit it can drive you crazy at times.

Good luck in whatever solution you come up with.

..WeathermanShawn..

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

i've taken long trips and logged at the same time. the HPTuners MPVI can hold about 80 minutes total time. i'll get out on the highway and just drive. i'll change gears, so i can get more hits throughout the rpm range. having elevation chages can help with hitting more cells as your load versus rpm will vary without having throttle input.

1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

when I get off work tonight im gonna set the cell count to 50 and go for a drive and see how things turn out.... think that is my biggest problem, not using a good average of cell count. will keep you all updated.


thanks for the help.

Blaine

Gh0st

iTrader: (3)

I keep saying this, not sure if people take note of it...filter you results for a given IAT only if possible. This way you can avoid fueling data that is whacked due to too high or too low IAT.

1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

when I get off work tonight im gonna set the cell count to 50 and go for a drive and see how things turn out.... think that is my biggest problem, not using a good average of cell count. will keep you all updated.


thanks for the help.

Blaine

1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

so how do I go about doing this? relocate my iat sensor?

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

No he is saying through your tuning software histogram filters.

It is a great idea. You log as normal, then you ask it to only apply the data for a IAT range..I.E. 20-25c.

You see, for a given RPM and MAP the fueling will change as your IAT, Air Pressure (elevation) and ECT changes. You want all the fueling to calculated at the same IAT and preferably the same ECT & BARO.

It is actually pretty easy. Should be described in your tuning software tutorials.

..WeathermanShawn..

1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

ok that makes sense.... that should help a lot.

with my fmic my iats are around 25 degrees above the temp outside... is this decent?

thanks,

Blaine

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Lurking for info.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

So true and great advice. This is how I do it to poinpoint problematic areas. Tedious and time consuming, but it certainly does work.

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

I have the 'old school free ram air' modification. I.E., hole cut out in lid tray to allow more air (and dirt) into lid. The sensor is not relocated.

I usually run within 5-10 degrees of ambient IAT. Faster you go, the temperature usually runs close to ambient. If my car is not moving I have had IAT's as high as 167F (Vail Pass Colorado). Perhaps that is the air temperature that is going into your manifold, so in all cases you just want it to be accurate.

There are a few great write-ups and relocating the IAT sensor if you are consistently running +25 degrees over ambient. Many will argue against relocating sensor, so do your homework and research first.

But, for your purposes within 25F is no big deal. You are just trying to get a decent VE Table and getting it all done in one day!

Good luck, hope the information helps.

..WeathermanShawn..

1BAD_LS1

iTrader: (36)

ya im gonna have to do some reasearch on moving the IAT sensor....

I really do appreciate your time. I have learned alot today!!!! Some things are making some sense now... slowly but surely starting to piece things together here. I was really bummed out about tuning but now im getting excited again!