OBDII CAT monitor not running
10-10-2009, 10:14 PM
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OBDII CAT monitor not running Been a few months since disconnecting/reconnecting the battery on my car. Usually, the CAT I/M runs within a couple start/drive occasions but this time it hasn't run (dot still flashing and yellow status light). Have tried to find a GM CAT I/M drive cycle but haven't been able to find one. My unit is a Innova 3120, and btw, no DTC's are being flagged. Its 0/0 for DTC's but like I said that dang CAT monitor isn't verifying. Can anyone help with this?
Thanks for any assistance!
Thanks for any assistance!
10-12-2009, 03:48 PM
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10-12-2009, 06:57 PM
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Joecar, the first one is the drive cycle I have rerun a number of times trying to get the CAT monitor to set. The second one doesn't seem to apply because I don't have any DTC's, and it refers back to running the drive cycle proceedure after repairing/resetting those found DTC's. Thanks for your input, could it be anything else? Arent all the wiring in these systems supervised, and if any were cut or damaged it would flag the "Check engine" light (now called the MIL). Just trying to shake loose a few cobwebs about this systems wiring, and to get the dang CAT monitor to run and verify (thereby showing green on my OBDII tester.
10-12-2009, 07:01 PM
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Oh, I should reload the original program back into it? I had used a hypertech 30025 to modify a couple parameters (nothing to do with emmissions just tach limiter to 6250rpm and top speed limit eliminated. Don't recall if the thing started acting up after the flash but when I had the 30015 model on it it was fine. Am pretty sure I would have monitored the system after the newer flash from the 30025 but I am getting (shall I say) a lil older? LOL
10-13-2009, 09:00 PM
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Basically, after engine is warm, you need to cruise along the freeway (say 70 mph) for more some time (say 10-20 minutes) and then you need to coast down to a stop (delay on applying brakes until you have to actually stop), and idle stopped for at least a few minutes...
if you monitor the AFR at idle you will see when the test is triggered, the AFR will deviate away from stoich for a second or two, and then deviate the opposite direction for a few more seconds and then return to stoich... you have to be stopped (foot on brake) and idling for this to happen...
It takes me several attempts before I can trigger it... usually it is easier to trigger if you drive your car aggressively on the freeway...
If you suspect the Hypertech, then restore the originall tune and try again... but I don't think it's the Hypertech... just be persistent in hitting the drive cycle.
if you monitor the AFR at idle you will see when the test is triggered, the AFR will deviate away from stoich for a second or two, and then deviate the opposite direction for a few more seconds and then return to stoich... you have to be stopped (foot on brake) and idling for this to happen...
It takes me several attempts before I can trigger it... usually it is easier to trigger if you drive your car aggressively on the freeway...
If you suspect the Hypertech, then restore the originall tune and try again... but I don't think it's the Hypertech... just be persistent in hitting the drive cycle.
10-15-2009, 05:55 AM
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Hey Joecar, I found it... www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html (and I printed it out). Step 7 is the one that takes care of the CAT monitor so all it seems I have to do is drive steady at 55 for 5 minutes (yeah I know, too slow for this baby).
I am pretty sure it has been driven like this many times since disconnecting the battery though. If it does not reset (CAT monitor), and there are no DTC's, got any ideas what it could be? Trending Topics
10-18-2009, 03:10 PM
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No, actually step 7 is only half of it... you then also have to decelerate to a stop and idle for a minute or two.
I find aggressive throttle on the freeway followed by a stop/idle (usually at the off-ramp signal) usually does it.
I find aggressive throttle on the freeway followed by a stop/idle (usually at the off-ramp signal) usually does it.
