382 Stoker Tune. Drives great. Looks funny.
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382 Stoker Tune. Drives great. Looks funny.
Wondering if someone wouldn't mind looking at my tune for a basic summary.
A few months back I bought a '98 Trans Am that has a 382 LS6 stroker in it, tuned by a local shop back in early 2007. Motor has 5-6k miles on it.
Short list of mods:
Ls6 block
4" Stroke crank
Flattop pistons
Cam: 232 234 595 598 112lsa
Patriot Stg 2 heads
Ported Fast 90 w/92 TB
SVO injectors 36lbs I believe
1 3/4" Long tubes, offroad Y into 4" cutout
Stock small maf
Car drives good but I've suspected the tune might be off a bit. Bought HP Tuners and found some interesting items I thought some others could chime in on. I'm not new to tuning, but it's been a couple years since I've messed with it. I haven't scanned the car since I bought the software (as the car is on jackstands).
Items that concern me:
1. Cylinder Volume size hasn't been changed. Does this affect anything?
2. Idle seems high. Shouldn't it be closer to 900? Car doesn't have that hard of a lope and I am a raunchy lope kinda guy.
3. VE hasn't been changed except for 800rpm and below on the main VE table. This just seems weird. I've seen the receipt where the guy paid the local shop over $500 to tune this vehicle. Shouldn't they have tuned the VE table (although car does drive ok)?
4. Closed Loop Enable Coolant Temp is set crazy high. Am I staying in Open Loop? Why wouldn't I just remove the maf completely and run this way all the time and not have the inlet restriction? It's not a DD and driving in extreme weather conditions is not a problem.
5. PE commanded afr seems crazy rich (high 10s). No clue on this one. Haven't logged with wideband yet but don't see how I could be anywhere close at WOT.
6. Low and High Octane tables are identical. Just doesn't seem safe....?
Glad to accept help on any of this or anything else anyone sees.
Tune can be found here if what I attached doesn't work. http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27243
A few months back I bought a '98 Trans Am that has a 382 LS6 stroker in it, tuned by a local shop back in early 2007. Motor has 5-6k miles on it.
Short list of mods:
Ls6 block
4" Stroke crank
Flattop pistons
Cam: 232 234 595 598 112lsa
Patriot Stg 2 heads
Ported Fast 90 w/92 TB
SVO injectors 36lbs I believe
1 3/4" Long tubes, offroad Y into 4" cutout
Stock small maf
Car drives good but I've suspected the tune might be off a bit. Bought HP Tuners and found some interesting items I thought some others could chime in on. I'm not new to tuning, but it's been a couple years since I've messed with it. I haven't scanned the car since I bought the software (as the car is on jackstands).
Items that concern me:
1. Cylinder Volume size hasn't been changed. Does this affect anything?
2. Idle seems high. Shouldn't it be closer to 900? Car doesn't have that hard of a lope and I am a raunchy lope kinda guy.
3. VE hasn't been changed except for 800rpm and below on the main VE table. This just seems weird. I've seen the receipt where the guy paid the local shop over $500 to tune this vehicle. Shouldn't they have tuned the VE table (although car does drive ok)?
4. Closed Loop Enable Coolant Temp is set crazy high. Am I staying in Open Loop? Why wouldn't I just remove the maf completely and run this way all the time and not have the inlet restriction? It's not a DD and driving in extreme weather conditions is not a problem.
5. PE commanded afr seems crazy rich (high 10s). No clue on this one. Haven't logged with wideband yet but don't see how I could be anywhere close at WOT.
6. Low and High Octane tables are identical. Just doesn't seem safe....?
Glad to accept help on any of this or anything else anyone sees.
Tune can be found here if what I attached doesn't work. http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27243
#2
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It has also been suggested on the HP Tuners forum that I might just not know what a "good tune" would feel like. This is very possible. That's why I have posted it. I will be retuning the car, and feel like I will do a much better job than the previous tuner did. Just looking for a few people to re-affirm that what I have listed above actually needs attention.
#3
I'm not surprised you have some driveability issues based on what you've posted, however I didn't look at the file you posted but just the comments you made.
Adjust the cyl. volume, properly tune the ve, maf, and pe tables. Clearly this was a quick maf only tune where they just fudged the fueling up top, which is evidence by the pe table. Running the car in open loop isn't the worst thing and there's nothing wrong with running a open loop maf setup. If the tune is done properly running open loop isn't a problem. A tune shouldn't have to "rely" on the O2 sensors to make the car run right, they exist more as a check on everything. I bet you'll find a lot of throttle response and driveability by cleaning up the tune, maybe even some hp as well. Good luck.
Adjust the cyl. volume, properly tune the ve, maf, and pe tables. Clearly this was a quick maf only tune where they just fudged the fueling up top, which is evidence by the pe table. Running the car in open loop isn't the worst thing and there's nothing wrong with running a open loop maf setup. If the tune is done properly running open loop isn't a problem. A tune shouldn't have to "rely" on the O2 sensors to make the car run right, they exist more as a check on everything. I bet you'll find a lot of throttle response and driveability by cleaning up the tune, maybe even some hp as well. Good luck.
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Yes, raising the closed loop enable temps keeps it in open loop which negates O2 sensor input on fueling (no short or long term trims).
If you were to fail the maf or remove it, then you would be in open loop speed density.
As it is now, you are in open loop MAF. I run a lot of cars that way and it works nice when everything is done correctly.
If you were to fail the maf or remove it, then you would be in open loop speed density.
As it is now, you are in open loop MAF. I run a lot of cars that way and it works nice when everything is done correctly.
#6
It's not only using the maf, it still references sd calculations which is why the ve table needs to be properly tuned, but it seems that all the tuner did is "tune" the maf table which can be made to get by but it's not a proper tune.
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Scratch that. Has an IAT sensor that works. Now for another ?. Driving around, checking tune, I notice that my wideband reads 20-22:1 most of the time during normal driving conditions. Extremely lean. All of this while in open loop maf mode. Is this the way the car is supposed to work? Doing a roll into WOT, the car starts to come down and eventually ends up around 13:1 or so, but it takes a few seconds of being in WOT. Something seems funny.
I might just start with a bone stock tune and redo everything.
I might just start with a bone stock tune and redo everything.