So how exactly do our knock sensors work? Im brainstorming here...
08-10-2010, 10:58 AM
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So how exactly do our knock sensors work? Im brainstorming here... I've been getting codes for knock sensors for a while now. I've replaced all the wire and both sensors, with no luck. They are torqued to spec and everything. What I want to know is... what can I do to make the PCM think the car isn't knocking? I KNOW it's not knocking, and its been bothering the **** out of me for 3 years now.
08-10-2010, 11:14 AM
#2
08-10-2010, 01:47 PM
#3
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
P0327. Low input bank 1. The engine has a solid ground, all connections are new, nothing is pinched, new sensors, everything. If I have the code turned off, it will still pull timing and go into "limp mode", correct? Is there any way to have it completely back to normal by just tuning it out? My buddy has EFIlive and can do whatever needs to be done. HELP please!
08-10-2010, 01:51 PM
#4
I have warned locals (in bane) against replacing their own sensors with ANYTHING other than GM sensors. I have watched guys go through 3-4 sets of Napa/Autozone sensors, give up, and then bring the car to me. A set of GM sensors and pigtails later, the last two that were brought in were fixed.
I'm not saying that's your problem, just relating experience.
I'm not saying that's your problem, just relating experience.
08-10-2010, 01:58 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I replaced everything, I got it all from the dealership due to me hearing stories exactly like you just said. I didn't want to take that chance. So how can I "bandage" this through tuning to make my car run fine and not have the code?
08-10-2010, 02:05 PM
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pasadena Texas
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have them turned off , and delete them. They are just another electronic sensor that can give you problems. If you run good fuel and don't dog the car when its heat soaked you will be fine. Oh don't lug the car in the wrong gear. Follow those simple rules and you will be fine. I haven't run them for over 10 years. If you get audiable detonation the sensers aren't going to help any ways.
08-10-2010, 02:13 PM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So just to make sure I fully understand, the codes can be permanently deleted AND the sensors can be turned completely off, restoring my 4* of timing, correct?
Trending Topics
08-10-2010, 02:57 PM
#8
Another interesting point that may lead to just killing the codes altogether is that I've heard you can overtorque the intake manifold bolts and the vibration through it would set off the knock sensor as well? I've wondered about this on cars with solid or (like in my case) that has the 95 durometer or very stiff urethane that transmits so much vibration through the car. It seems a good tune and killing the knock sensor is the best idea out there perhaps?
08-10-2010, 03:29 PM
#10
did that fix it in the end though? just a bad PCM connection or something in the ecu?
08-10-2010, 04:11 PM
#11
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its a brand new PCM. It also had the same problem on my 98 PCM.
So just to make sure I fully understand, the codes can be permanently deleted AND the sensors can be turned completely off, restoring my 4* of timing, correct?
So just to make sure I fully understand, the codes can be permanently deleted AND the sensors can be turned completely off, restoring my 4* of timing, correct?
08-10-2010, 08:15 PM
#13
I would definitely recommend fixing the problem vs. covering it up. There's no giant mystery to solve. Since you are on a second PCM reporting the problem, the only thing left is sensors and wiring. If you replaced the pigtails and sensors and still have the problem (and have inspected to make sure you didn't crush the pigtails) then that only leaves a small bit of wire between the sensor and PCM or engine/PCM grounds really.
08-11-2010, 07:55 AM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I know the engine has an excellent ground. Not sure on the PCM though... I would imagine it is just fine. And I have replaced EVERY single wire between the knock sensor and PCM. I think Im gonna replace EVERYTHING one last time, and then tune them out as a last resort. Which sensor is bank 1 and which is bank 2? Is there a cheaper place to get more GM sensors than GMpartsdirect?
