KL20

iTrader: (18)

I'm thinking about going this route and wanted to know some things from the wiser community. Just to give a little info about my car to help out with answers..... live in Dallas, Tx., my car is a '00 Z28 with following mods: boltons, 78mm lid, stock maf, ported stock tb, ls1 intake, macs/ory, vig 3600, F1 cam.

I'm curious on the pros/cons, if it's reliable, effective enough with my current mods, what gains if any could be seen, and any other info that can be gven.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

I run SD on my setup. But with the mods you listed there is no need for you to go to SD only. With your mods, tuned right I would think you will have better resutls with leaving the MAF in the equasion.

KL20

iTrader: (18)

Okay at what point will it be beneficial? I'll be upgrading my entire induction soon. The only other serious mods I'm considering is a 150 wet kit and/or a P1 or D1. The nitrous will come before the boost.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Boost would be the time. The MAF will not be benificial once you have more airflow then the MAF or PCM can calculate.

ND2RACE

This. I like running SD with my nitrous, but this is only because I use a custom operating system from EFIlive to control the timing.

Maf is a much better all around tune, not as sensitive to weather changes, and properly tuned will make the same power as SD.

KL20

iTrader: (18)

Thanks guys, I'll go with upgrading my maf and retune.

joecar

Upgrading the MAF will not get any gain...

the best gain is obtained by correcting the VE and MAF tables, and setting appropriate AFR's in the OL and PE tables;

if you're running out of MAF, be aware that the PCM limits the max airflow that can be read from the MAF.

You could also firm up the shifts a little, and play with the WOT shift points (shift as high up as your valvetrain allows).

01FbTaWs6

iTrader: (12)

i dont agree. I run SD OL. Its easier to tune, and IMHO, to do a proper MAF tune you need to tune it in SD first, then re enable the maf, and mess around with scaling the MAF tables back to get your numbers. Not a fan. SD all the way for this guy!

joecar

I know what you're saying, I run SD most of the time... the thing with SD is he will give up adaptive spark and adaptive shifts.

Doing the MAF is the same procedure as doing VE (but with dynamic airflow disabled), it's not hard, he just needs to obtain good data.

KL20

iTrader: (18)

I'm not upgrading mafs looking for gains, I'm upgrading due to a larger intake (96mm). I know nothing about the details of tuning, I know it's tweaks here and there to obtain the right combo.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Every one is right, but with your mods and getting a pro to tune your car, the car will run more consistent from day to day, just like it did when it was stock. The old GM system on the 1985 Vette was a MAF only system, and it had serious limitations. Then GM went with SD only PCM,s and later combined them both to get the consistent reliability you now have in most all makes. SD is defenitly the ****, for wild setups like mine, and for other specific reasons as mentioned before. Get the larger MAF sensor, and have it tuned by a very pro tuning shop. They will let you know when your mods limit the ability of the MAF/PCM and at that time you will need to go to SD only.

BOTTLE ROCKET

iTrader: (4)

I'd only go SD when I HAD to. The MAF and MAP work together to make for a GREAT running car. I went SD when I ran out of MAF after I went boosted, and the car runs very good, but I can already tell it is just a little off when the temps and humidity changes a LOT from what it was when I tuned it. After the VE tables are done, it takes no time at all to tweak the MAF (it won't be off much).
OP; You don't need to bother with the MAF size right now, just because you changed intakes (or TB etc) The stock MAF with give you all the flow you need to make a lot more hp than you are making now.