GMmexican

iTrader: (7)

I got the SES light for a front O2 sensor and I replaced it with a new denso sensor.........now I get the P1133 and P1153 codes which are for insufficent switching bank? My guess is that I should have replaced both sensors? The denso sensor is a newer style one compared to the old AC delco's that were on there so Im guessing one side reads better than the other.

Any other suggestions?

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

I got these codes pop up just this morning and I replaced both sensors when I got my headers and cutback put on. I'm not sure what to do either...

06MonteSS

those two codes are due to having long tube headers installed...

you need to get the tune reprogrammed in your pcm in order to have them disabled...

bigboykilroy

iTrader: (48)

You can remove the code in the pcm, but..
If you are using long tube headers you are better off Getting the Corvette rear 02's.
They have longeg cables (no extenders needed) and they have a hotter heating element in them.
I swapped my stockers to them when i got LT and no issue since.

CyberGrey Z28

iTrader: (4)

Problem is caused because the 02's are not being heated up enough after installing the long tube headers causing issues when switching from open to close loop. If you run a search you'll find that people have tried the longer Vette sensors (as i did), Denso sensors, Bosch sensors, GM sensors, header wrap, repositioning the O2 bung and its pretty much hit or miss with the codes usually coming back.

After swapping numerous 02 sensors, I had my tuner bypass the 02's and it runs fine.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Stop spreading the myth about the heaters. They are no different than any others.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

When I had the headers put on a also had the Bosch corvette 02s put in. I just had an LS6 crate put in and cam and it was dyno tuned. Don't you think the tuner would have tuned the 02s as necessary. I feel that's a no brainer...

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Since they are pre cat O2 codes, not all tuners automatically turn off 1133 and 1153.

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Damn, I'm not exactly looking to have to take it all the way to him since he's 130 miles away. Is it hurting anything by driving with the codes being thrown? The LAST thing I want to do is hurt this brand new engine....

bigboykilroy

iTrader: (48)

Look at the wattage ratings, they are highter wattage, it fixed my issue with the same codes no problem, so myth?

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Regardless, I HAVE the vette 02s already and the problem is still present. Short of having to take it all the way back 130 miles... is it hurting anything internally to continue to drive the car with these codes?

bigboykilroy

iTrader: (48)

Are your kooks headers coated?

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

No, they aren't.

rel3rd

iTrader: (43)

It's not "hurting" anything to drive like this since a tune or tuner "turning the codes off" or "programming them out" is just making the "problem" not make the light come on anymore. Does that make sense?

I swapped in new O2's (stock replacement) into my truck when I swapped to longtubes. Roughly 7 months without any header related codes. Mine would get them whenever it felt like it, with no pattern or regularity whatsoever. I just modified the tune to NO ERROR REPORTED for those particular codes and no MIL since. Some debate whether this is the "right" way to "fix" the problem. All I know is that truck ran the same with or without the light on, and used no more or less gas with light on or off, so I chose the "easy fix" of turning off the codes...

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it makes perfect sense. I'm more concerned with it being a proper air to fuel mixture causing the O2s to foul and set a code...

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I've been fighting with p1133 ever since I installed the Hooker longtubes. I've tried multiple O2 sensors, tuned by a pro, tune up, and welded the exhaust: Problem continues. New O2 sensors last 3-6 months, and burn up again and cause misfires (p300). I wish I never bought these headers, or never did them at all. Passenger side has not thrown one code over the years. I think the only resolution for my car is a SD tune.

rel3rd

iTrader: (43)

Adam, that is what I was asking if it made sense to you...

Even if pcm is "tuned" to a NO ERROR REPORTED for the codes that come along with slow sensor switching, all that does is keep the MIL lamp turned OFF. It does NOT make the sensors switch faster. The sensors are still slow switching due to the nature of the longtube headers. IE, the further away from the exhaust ports you go, the cooler the actual exhaust temperature is. The cooler the exhaust, the slower the O2's switch. Like said, I also got the same codes as the original poster, but simply "turned them off". The cause of the codes is still there, but I've never experienced misfire or any noticeable effects on a/f ratio. Mine would set the MIL on usually at very light cruise rpm, or at idle, but like I said above, there was no consistency to how frequently it would do it.

I would think that if the O2 sensors are actually fouling out, then you need more than just the codes disabled. That sounds like it is an actual tuning problem, and not just a sensor placement problem. JMO...

Adam2001WS6

iTrader: (1)

On a stock, from the factory tune, don't the O2 sensors tell the computer to adjust the air/fuel mix, so if they are reading out of range and throwing the SES light on, wouldn't that mean they are telling the PCM to change the air/fuel mixture? For example, if the car is running between the normal parameters, the air/fuel is set at one level and as the O2s read out of range, lean or rich, they tell the PCM to adjust accordingly... So regardless if the O2s are setting the SES light, they are in fact telling the PCM to adjust air/fuel out of wack(??)

Did that make sense? Maybe I'm just complicating things and thinking way too much into it...

rel3rd

iTrader: (43)

The codes you guys are getting are coming up because the sensors are not staying hot enough to "switch" as quick as they normally would on a stock vehicle. The O2's always provide a/f feedback to the PCM while in closed loop, and still do even when they are slow switching. It's not a real big deal and is actually quite common with longtube headers. There's ways to "tune" the PCM to think the slow reacting sensors are responding as they should, but 99% of the people with this problem simply turn the code off and forget about it.

If you have a way to physically look at the O2 sensor voltages while the car is running, you can 100% verify whether they are "slow" or actually "dead". Most any decent code scanner, tuner or tuning software will allow you to do that. Even a digital volt meter would work if you are determined enough. If one or both sensors are dead (not working at all) then the car would be rough idling and running like crap at anything other than WOT, since they are ignored at WOT anyway. If they are just slow, the car should idle fine...

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I can always tell when the p1133 code is about to trigger the Service Engine Soon light. Before the light goes off, coming to a stop my idle will bounce between 500-1000RPMs for two-three seconds (will go on for a few days depending how often I drive it). New O2 sensor, I receive no miss or "surging" idle.