KOTC

Here is my issue, please bear with me as I'm going to run through my whole setup and issue im having.

1950 Chevy with a 2003 silverado 5.3 with 4l60e 2wd trans. I pulled this setup complete including full intake, maf, gas pedal, tac module, computer, wiring harness, engine & trans. I had the harness modified to delete egr, and rear 02's, a/c and I think that is basically it, I swapped on a 99 camaro intake, rails & injectors, did the f-body front drive pulley setup with water pump and all.

Fuel system is an inline 255 pump, corvette reg/filter, areoquip -6 pushlock hose throughout.

Got it all wired up and fired it up and let it run for a good while before doing anything with it, fresh oil, filter, etc. (didnt change plugs but they looked ok and runs good in park/idle)

The car is breaking up under a load, hesitating and stumbling while holding the throttle steady when driving. I scanned it and it was throwing an o2 code so I replaced it with a Bosch that was recommended from Autozone..threw it in, cleared the code and fired it up with no difference at all, still doing it and code is still there. Had the guy who did the wiring tune the injectors from truck to car 28lbs he says for car/stock but it is running so rich right now that my boss followed me back to work and he says his eyes were burning from the fuel out my pipes.

I pulled the new o2 sensor from the bung today and found it completely caked with think carbon only 3 days old with 1 hour of run time on it!...It is throwing a bank 1 sensor 2 code but those are/would be the deleted ones arent they? the other side o2 is stock from the 5.3 motor but havent checked it yet.

The car runs good, I wouldnt say excellent in park idle but wont run good at all in gear, it has power, will burn the tires through the first 3 gears while punching it if it doesnt break up and blow a black smoke puff first with it slightly popping/backfiring while driving so I know the potential is there...any help?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

What was the sensor code?
Injectors clean?
Fuel psi is?
A data log would help.

bigboykilroy

iTrader: (48)

I would try to run it with the stock 5.3 pcm (or load a 5.3 config into you 99 pcm) and see if that will get you running.
Im betting its 100% in the tune.

If you could post your tune file that would help us out alot as well.

I have seen people not scale for the injectors properly before. some dont know that there are 4 tables that you need to adjust for injectors. They just do one or two of them:

Injector Flow Rate vs KPA VAC
Injector Offset vs Battery Voltage vs KPS VAC
Short Pulse Adder
Minimum Injector Pulsewidth

CalEditor@PCMCalibrators

iTrader: (4)

Is this a 5.3L Z or T engine?

KOTC

Its the non flex fuel engine, so vin Z I think? I do not know what he did with the tune as far as the injectors go, but said it is set for stock injectors... but told me he is a wiring guy, not a tuner...so I'm hoping that's the issue.

Here is some photos off the scanner (no printer or anywhere to upload the readout to) the o2 on the passenger front is the **** sensor that I had to toss in after pulling the carbon caked o2 out to return it.

Anything look out of the ordinary? The 2 codes I'm getting right now are P0141 heater circuit & P1810 pressure manifold (keep in mind I took this car to a Multistate Trans, he says he ordered the new manifold and installed it...but less than 1 mile down the road the code was back in the system...WTF...guessing he did NOTHING to it?

KOTC

I am waiting on the guy to email me the tune file, he says it is same file that came out of the stock computer? Will post it shortly I hope.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

With your trims so unbalanced between B1 and B2 ( one way + and the other way -) and the fact it is a transplant with a modified harness, your O2s may be in the wrong banks. Unplug your drivers side O2 and see if O2 B1 S1 goes to 450 mv. If they are reversed your O2 B2 S1 will go to 450 mv on the scanner.

KOTC

I was reading one other thread where that was suggested with switching the o2's and there is a chance that they are mixed up when we shoved them down the firewall behind the block to run them after shortening the o2 wiring.

So the basically "dead" 6-13mv o2 could be reading extremely low due to being in the wrong exhaust side? If they are supposed to be around the 450mv? that might explain the ultra high 650-700mv readout Im getting from the one on the drivers side?

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

No. They are supposed to constantly switch between 100 mv and 900 mv when in closed loop. Unpluging one and looking for 450 mv is just to test the wiring. If you unplug B1 and B2 goes to 450 mv, they are switched.

KOTC

Either side?, unplug the pigtail and run the car & scanner check for mvs on the sensor to plug in to even out at or around 450mv?

Should I unplug the one thats reading higher than the other to single out if Ive got a bad o2 or bad wiring on that side and then try the other? The one showing really low is the one I changed with the new Bosch o2 and smoked it in under an hour of run time.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Quit making it more complicated than what I told you to do.

KOTC

LOL, sorry for the questions! The way I read your first reply was sounding like maybe the wiring to the o2's might be backwards which could be causing the issue at hand. I did read in another thread where more than one person suggested the pigtails were ran to the wrong sides when installing the harness.

Ill unplug the wiring from each one, one at a time and scan/photo the readouts and report back tomorrow some time.

Thanks.

KOTC

Ok, no way to upload the photos of the new scan right now (posting from my phone) but I unplugged the sensor on the passenger side that was reading 6-13mv and ran the car with scanner on and it went to 447mv while the drivers side was at 680mv and the rears are gone but showing 447mv also.

I took the car for a drive with the passengers side unplugged and the hesitation, stumbling and popping is gone. Drives great and burned the tires through the first 3 gears just stabbing the pedal, so what could the issue be that when its plugged in it runs like ****? Is it wired wrong? My trans shifting issue also seems to have away completely when driving it with that one unplugged.

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

I am voting 100% in the tune. Certain things need to be deleted in the PCM when doing a engine swap like that for it run 100% right.

KOTC

Guy that did the wiring and little tuning an tweaking of the computer says its the stock tune file...I don't do tuning or really understand it so I have to trust what is said but in this case there is something wrong. It was a bone stock run tested engine with trans with full unmolested harness, computer, gas pedal, tac module, accessories and all...just swapped an ls1 complete intake/rails/injectors on it, that's all.

I'm wondering if its safe to drive for a day or two without that o2 plugged in..I gotta get it fixed but no really local tuners with short trip distances.

CalEditor@PCMCalibrators

iTrader: (4)

Key On Engine OFF with only 1 of the 2 O2 sensors unplugged. Scan the O2 Sensors and tell me what the mv is after 1 minute on the scan tool (B1 & B2). Then tell me if the O2 from the left side aka Bank 1 or the Right side aka Bank 2 is unplugged.

The O2 sensors are in place to help correct any fueling issues. You have an issue. If they are disconnected the PCM can not compensate for the issue and you could damage the engine.

CalEditor@PCMCalibrators

iTrader: (4)

Are you 100% sure that the wires are connected correctly when you shortened then and the integrity is 100% good?

KOTC

I will do this test after work today and report back with info. I asked the guy about. The wiring being wrong...told me to check it and gave me a diagram. If I am to test the wiring I would be checking it with the key on, engine off at the computer and then at the same color wire at the pigtail by probing them wih a volt meter while grounding with it set to 12v use?

Right now the passenger side sensor is unplugged because it runs good enough to drive it right now so that is how I will be testing the system like you suggested.

Thanks

KOTC

I didn't shorten the wires but I'm hoping he did them right.

KOTC

Ok ran out to car on lunch and scanned it for this test. Key on, engine off
..waited one minute and nothing changed on the scanner from the initial turn on.
B1s1 482-490mv
B1s2 447-451mv

B2s1 443-451mv
B2s2 443-451mv

Getting code P0134 & P0135 b1s1 low activity?? This is the one that's plugged in. Also getting P0141 & P0155 but I am not sure if I cleared the last 2 codes this morning prior to this