hisjakeness

iTrader: (3)

Finally got an A/C problem diagnosed. My idle speed settings are causing my A/C clutch to kick on and off. I want to change the settings so that my A/C does not "want" to turn off when my RPM's drop below a certain amount. Does anyone know where these changes can be made in EFI?

BTW, the car is a 2001 Camaro SS in case the info is needed. Thanks in advance!

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

This is most likely "stall saver" cutting the A/C against an
unstable idle condition.

hisjakeness

iTrader: (3)

Is that not something that can be changed with EFI? I know something like that is the problem, just not sure exactly how to fix it.

Thanks for the quick response!

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

There are delay tables for the A/C, but you most likely need to tune the idle tables for the A/C so that it compensates for the torque used when the compressor kicks in - that will in turn stop the delay tables from effecting the A/C operation.

hisjakeness

iTrader: (3)

I'll get my tuner to check those first then! Anything else I might want to get him to check? I am going to purchase an Autocal so he can tune my car through email. I live almost 500 miles away from his shop and I've already made too many drives for this issue.

Is Autocal going to pull the info from my car that is needed to get the tune ironed out? My tuner already has a log of the car in it's current state.

As always, thanks for the responses. This forum is the best.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Stall saver (in HPTuners) has an enable checkbox that
turns off some "strategy" (details unknown, but shedding
accessory load seems to be one part of it).

A/C drag torque model should not need to be changed,
the A/C certainly is what it was, but the motor torque
model buried in the PCM is all messed up by cam swaps,
the true torque vs the map (air, EQ, RPM, spark) inside
is something I don't get to see but you know it's jacked.
If you add too much A/C air bump you will get a "cruise
control effect".

Look at your underspeed / overspeed idle spark tables,
some years have really stupid **** in them (like at high
underspeed it stops adding spark, making things even
more unstable).

A wrong MAP-axis profile in the VE table also is something
I've seen destabilize idle. There should be a slope to it but
the right slope eludes me. Especially in a SD tune it lets
the MAP overdrive fueling and wow-wow-wow-wow is the
result. When I hooked up the much-slower MAF again this
got a lot better. Look fot this as a problem by locking IAC
and spark, and seeing if the idle is still unstable.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

BLKT02WS6 is correct. You need to look at the values in both the AC Torque Loss Tables (AC Pressure and IAT). Depending on the car and mods, you may need to increase them up 30-40%. You will also have to play with the ramp in/ramp out rates. I usually leave the ramp in rate alone, but decrease the ramp out rate for a softer drop when the AC is turned off. Also use the DVT controls to find the optimal idle with the AC on.

hisjakeness

iTrader: (3)

Once again, thanks for the replies. I am calling my tuner today (long holiday weekend on the gulf coast!) to give him this info. I will update this thread to show thanks to all that helped.