Holley dominator efi ,any good???
#81
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-550-604
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-554-114
I see $150 difference.....
sounds like a pretty good price to get a second wideband and a bunch of extra inputs and outputs, plus trans control for a 4l60/80
#82
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-550-604
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-554-114
I see $150 difference.....
sounds like a pretty good price to get a second wideband and a bunch of extra inputs and outputs, plus trans control for a 4l60/80
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-554-114
I see $150 difference.....
sounds like a pretty good price to get a second wideband and a bunch of extra inputs and outputs, plus trans control for a 4l60/80
#83
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I'm sure there are a lot of tuners that aren't familiar with this system. The fact that you can't use stock guages is a deal breaker for me. I was told there are a couple people that are trying to piggy back this system to the stock computer to retain some of the stock functions. Apparently it looks promising. It does seem like a nice system.
#84
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Sound engineer: please correct me if I'm wrong but the Dominator you linked is just the ecu with no harness etc correct? Where as the HP comes with the harness and o2 sensor? If that's the case, wouldn't the difference be greater than $150?
#85
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HP ECU only is 899...
so it is a bit of a difference...but its well worth it..
I guarantee you will find more things that you want to data log and it will take up more than 4 inputs
I started with thinking I was only gonna use the 4 Ins and outs for fans and nitrous stuff....but I bought the Dominator for the second wideband
its evolved to 14 inputs and 9 outputs...and I plan on adding more stuff.
#86
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I'm sure there are a lot of tuners that aren't familiar with this system. The fact that you can't use stock guages is a deal breaker for me. I was told there are a couple people that are trying to piggy back this system to the stock computer to retain some of the stock functions. Apparently it looks promising. It does seem like a nice system.
when car manufacturers went to a custom serial data stream, it all became useless and slow.
if you want to keep using the slow stock gauge cluster, then you just have to piggy back...
and honestly, If you still feel you need to use the stock gauge cluster, then you are probably not at a level that needs an aftermarket ECU in the first place. Its not a piece that everybody needs...in fact, most people should probably stay with the stock ECU...but when the stock ECU doesnt cut it any more, and its time to upgrade...then consider the fact that you are on your way to a legit race car and you need more accurate gauges anyways
I also live in a place where the OBD2 port, doesnt get checked..I walk into the DOT and show them my title, and they give me tags for a small fee...inspection doesnt even happen..LOL
but when I lived in an area that has an actual ODB2 emissions check, I made a piggy back harness...
all the stock ECU needs is power, ground, and a crank signal to be in a "Running state"...
I also wired in some resistors to simulate ECT/IAT, and I provided some 0-5v signals to simulate some other sensors
everything else was just left hanging and I edited out all of the codes...
#87
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Your right, currently I'm not at that level. I have 427 that can easily be tuned using the stock pcm. The issue is that I have a twin turbo kit that I would like to install and this appears to be an awesome setup. There are three local guys going 7s through very low nines that really love this setup (turbos). There were some initial issues that they had to deal with but they appear to be worked out. But I just like that stock look.
#88
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Your right, currently I'm not at that level. I have 427 that can easily be tuned using the stock pcm. The issue is that I have a twin turbo kit that I would like to install and this appears to be an awesome setup. There are three local guys going 7s through very low nines that really love this setup (turbos). There were some initial issues that they had to deal with but they appear to be worked out. But I just like that stock look.
yeah.... there comes a point....and then you snap and go full on racecar...
you'll know that point when you get there..LOL
one day you give up on trying to keep stock items and stock luxuries and just concentrate on the inner racecar
Lets just say I know from experience...
#89
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yeah.... there comes a point....and then you snap and go full on racecar...
you'll know that point when you get there..LOL
one day you give up on trying to keep stock items and stock luxuries and just concentrate on the inner racecar
Lets just say I know from experience...
you'll know that point when you get there..LOL
one day you give up on trying to keep stock items and stock luxuries and just concentrate on the inner racecar
Lets just say I know from experience...
#92
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Been following this thread for a while, great information! My build is a pull out 2002 LS1/T56 from a wrecked 2002 Camaro. I'm putting everything into a 1967 Camaro. My question for you all is should I ditch the stock PCM/Harness that I got from the donor car and buy the HP kit? I plan on "spirited" driving around town and some long drives up the California coast but no real drag racing etc. MAYBE some day I'll add either a Maggie TVS or similar supercharger OR possibly just ditch the LS1 and go LS3. I was figuring I still have to do the following to get my stock PCM ready for the conversion:
All this will add up to possibly the same cost as purchasing the HP Holley kit. I figured I can sell the stock unit and just run the Holley HP as is until I can save up for a proper dyno tune. What do you all think? BMF5150 do you have yours installed yet? If I'd be better off with the stock unit please advise...
- Have the harness reconfigured
- Reflash PCM/Mail order tune
- Purchase HP tuners
- Take for dyno tune
All this will add up to possibly the same cost as purchasing the HP Holley kit. I figured I can sell the stock unit and just run the Holley HP as is until I can save up for a proper dyno tune. What do you all think? BMF5150 do you have yours installed yet? If I'd be better off with the stock unit please advise...
#95
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Been following this thread for a while, great information! My build is a pull out 2002 LS1/T56 from a wrecked 2002 Camaro. I'm putting everything into a 1967 Camaro. My question for you all is should I ditch the stock PCM/Harness that I got from the donor car and buy the HP kit? I plan on "spirited" driving around town and some long drives up the California coast but no real drag racing etc. MAYBE some day I'll add either a Maggie TVS or similar supercharger OR possibly just ditch the LS1 and go LS3. I was figuring I still have to do the following to get my stock PCM ready for the conversion:
All this will add up to possibly the same cost as purchasing the HP Holley kit. I figured I can sell the stock unit and just run the Holley HP as is until I can save up for a proper dyno tune. What do you all think? BMF5150 do you have yours installed yet? If I'd be better off with the stock unit please advise...
- Have the harness reconfigured
- Reflash PCM/Mail order tune
- Purchase HP tuners
- Take for dyno tune
All this will add up to possibly the same cost as purchasing the HP Holley kit. I figured I can sell the stock unit and just run the Holley HP as is until I can save up for a proper dyno tune. What do you all think? BMF5150 do you have yours installed yet? If I'd be better off with the stock unit please advise...
personally, as long as you dont have to pass an OBD2 test, I say ditch the stock stuff and go with the Holley
the only hard thing is making sure you have the gauges working that you need to see...
and honestly, the only thing I would even see being a problem is a speedometer with odometer on it...even that can be done pretty easily with a t56... lots of aftermarket options to get the vss signal converted into something that any autometer gauge can use.
you can use Holley Gauges for everything else, you could even use the holley gauges for the speedo, but then theres no odometer.
#96
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Thanks for your reply soundengineer and bmf. I actually already converted my T56 tailshaft for the mechanical speedo on my car. I'm hoping to keep as much of the original gauges working as possible. This should still be possible with the Holley set up correct? Or am I kind of not getting the full potential of the Holley set up with the stock gauges? Just wondering. I'm mostly interested in the self learn of the Holley HP kit combined with the software to fine tune things. I was told that I should still go for a dyno tune regardless but not sure if that is necessary given that I plan to mostly drive the car on the street, not full racing. Also, will the HP kit be good enough if I decide to add a TVS in the future? Thanks....
#97
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the "Dyno Tune" is not needed... you can run your spark on the safe side of things and it will auto correct the fuel to where ever you tell it to be at...
usually LS motors like to see 13.0 ish Naturally aspirated at WOT to make power give or take a couple of points of AFR setup dependent...
all the dyno will do is allow you to find the ideal values for your car to make the most power...which could also be the ragged edge depending on the tuner you go to..
its better to just do a couple of runs at the track... and pull the plugs each run.
keep adding spark until it stops going any faster MPH, then back it down a degree or two for safety
play with Air fuel till the plugs clean up and again... MPH stops increasing....
dont rely on ET as every little thing will effect that, but MPH will be consistent even with various track ET's
usually LS motors like to see 13.0 ish Naturally aspirated at WOT to make power give or take a couple of points of AFR setup dependent...
all the dyno will do is allow you to find the ideal values for your car to make the most power...which could also be the ragged edge depending on the tuner you go to..
its better to just do a couple of runs at the track... and pull the plugs each run.
keep adding spark until it stops going any faster MPH, then back it down a degree or two for safety
play with Air fuel till the plugs clean up and again... MPH stops increasing....
dont rely on ET as every little thing will effect that, but MPH will be consistent even with various track ET's
#98
TECH Apprentice
the "Dyno Tune" is not needed... you can run your spark on the safe side of things and it will auto correct the fuel to where ever you tell it to be at...
usually LS motors like to see 13.0 ish Naturally aspirated at WOT to make power give or take a couple of points of AFR setup dependent...
all the dyno will do is allow you to find the ideal values for your car to make the most power...which could also be the ragged edge depending on the tuner you go to..
its better to just do a couple of runs at the track... and pull the plugs each run.
keep adding spark until it stops going any faster MPH, then back it down a degree or two for safety
play with Air fuel till the plugs clean up and again... MPH stops increasing....
dont rely on ET as every little thing will effect that, but MPH will be consistent even with various track ET's
usually LS motors like to see 13.0 ish Naturally aspirated at WOT to make power give or take a couple of points of AFR setup dependent...
all the dyno will do is allow you to find the ideal values for your car to make the most power...which could also be the ragged edge depending on the tuner you go to..
its better to just do a couple of runs at the track... and pull the plugs each run.
keep adding spark until it stops going any faster MPH, then back it down a degree or two for safety
play with Air fuel till the plugs clean up and again... MPH stops increasing....
dont rely on ET as every little thing will effect that, but MPH will be consistent even with various track ET's
#99
I know this is kind of an old thread but I'd like to add a tidbit. Something people forget is a stock PCM is designed to fluctuate the AFR up and down a bit. It will run rich for a little bit to fuel up the cat. converter, then lean out to save gas, and the heated up converter will convert the lean CO to CO2. I think..... Running the Holley EFI, it's going to fuel directly to whatever AFR you set it too. Something to keep in mind.
I'm going with the dominator for the DBW. I'm running an LS rear engined Corvair, and the DBW was just going to make it simpler. I also like the dual O2's. I'm hoping they come out with programming for cruise control for the DBW. Yeah it sucked paying the extra for the Dominator, but compared to what else I have in this thing, $900 wasn't so bad.
I'm going with the dominator for the DBW. I'm running an LS rear engined Corvair, and the DBW was just going to make it simpler. I also like the dual O2's. I'm hoping they come out with programming for cruise control for the DBW. Yeah it sucked paying the extra for the Dominator, but compared to what else I have in this thing, $900 wasn't so bad.
#100
Soundengineer has been a huge help to me,I'm glad I went with the Holley efi! Since now I'm putting a kenne bell on the car I can play with different pulleys and let the self learn , do its thing!!