5.7 LS1 finished Tune...Runs...Now a headache
07-25-2013, 07:44 AM
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5.7 LS1 finished Tune...Runs...Now a headache First...Thanks for any help you may provide.
I have a 5.7L and a 4l60E tranny. The wiring harness is from Street and Performance. The car has been tuned and was running great.
Noticed the bell housing bolts were loose and rubbing the torque converter. Dropped the tranny, fixed the torque converter bolt issue, re-installed the tranny,
The car cranks, but will not start. Check the one the ground wire on this harness and it's good. Check the voltage on the coils and they are reading 11.8Volts. Not a pro, still a rookie... any suggestions?
I have a 5.7L and a 4l60E tranny. The wiring harness is from Street and Performance. The car has been tuned and was running great.
Noticed the bell housing bolts were loose and rubbing the torque converter. Dropped the tranny, fixed the torque converter bolt issue, re-installed the tranny,
The car cranks, but will not start. Check the one the ground wire on this harness and it's good. Check the voltage on the coils and they are reading 11.8Volts. Not a pro, still a rookie... any suggestions?
07-25-2013, 08:37 AM
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I had a similar issue with my C5 after dropping the rear cradle. Was told more than once the grounding on the back of the heads. What had happened the eyelet was stretched & appeared good & measured good with & ohm meter. When you tried to start the car & a real load appeared to ground cct. it opened up.
It's easy to check, put the ground lead of your meter to the coil ground wire near the coil packs. Then the positive lead to the positive battery terminal, you should see battery voltage, if yes then crank it over, if the voltage drops you have a ground issue.
As soon as I touched the eyelet it broke off completely.
It's easy to check, put the ground lead of your meter to the coil ground wire near the coil packs. Then the positive lead to the positive battery terminal, you should see battery voltage, if yes then crank it over, if the voltage drops you have a ground issue.
As soon as I touched the eyelet it broke off completely.
07-25-2013, 08:49 AM
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Good to check those grounds for sure, but the coils have positive batt feed at all times with key on. The ecm grounds the coils to fire. The same for the injectors. The methodology of test is correct. Ohm meter can lie because no load on circuit. load test as stated is correct but point of testing is crucial. Go for the physical pull on the wire test first to check integrity first.
07-25-2013, 10:28 PM
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Update... Just did a spark test and NO Spark.... Does it matter which spark plug I test?
I verified the spark plug tester was operational by testing it on a lawn mower, passed on lawn mower.
However on the LS... using the same method it failed No spark. Any suggestions?
I verified the spark plug tester was operational by testing it on a lawn mower, passed on lawn mower.
However on the LS... using the same method it failed No spark. Any suggestions?
07-26-2013, 06:45 AM
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Well, best bet is to have some kind of scanner. There are inexpensive ones that will read basic live data and generic codes. Coils 1357 are powered by inj 1 fuse 15 amp goes to terminal d of coils key on.terminal b of coil low reference. Neg with voltmeter. A is ground goes to g112. C is ign. control Sig from pcm. I would like to know year of car. Assuming f body. And do you have injector signal/ power?
