5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

So i got my Eps cam 234/246 111 duration installed in my 02 z28 and have a question, which tune is better for my cam with a all stock block heads and intake.
Any input will be apreciated

dreww

iTrader: (1)

youre gonna get all kinds of opinions. i would keep the maf if its a daily driver and not maxing out the maf. with only the block stock, my car is still not maxing out the maf. its heads, cam, intake but no forced induction.
with a blower or turbo and modified, you could be nearing the maf max.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Bottom line is either is just fine with a good tuner/tune.

nm2769

iTrader: (1)

Both work just fine. On a daily driver I would keep the MAF. I built a good SD tune, then enabled the MAF and dialed in the MAF table to maintain the SD AFR. My reason for this is if the MAF was to fail there is no worry of the AFR going way out of whack.

HeavyMetl

iTrader: (2)

I've got a similar setup (347, AI 243's, 236/242 cam) and I love SD. I do my own tuning though, and even though the MAF is great and dead accurate for fueling, the throttle response with the SD tune is noticeably better. I've ran both, tuned both, and like the MAF, but in my personal application I'm all SD...

That being said, I don't know that with an 85mm MAF there'd be a real performance difference at the track. If anything, you'd have more accurate fueling without dealing with the inherent IAT sensor heat soak issues.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

SD tune all the way every day. I run an open-loop SD tune using the HP Tuners 1 Bar MAP OS. I admit, I tune it often, but it never changes a LOT day to day. In fact, I updated it today after a major change in the weather and the worst I saw was -4% with most being under 1%. Throttle response is nice and snappy and I can force a lean cruise using the open-loop VE multiplier. Oh, and I went from MAP readings at WOT between 92 and 94 kpa, with the 85mm maf and 3.5" intake tube to 95 to 100 KPA with no MAF and a 4" intake tube.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Sounds exactly like my tune; OLSD. My tuner has it setup to run lean at cruise and anything out of WOT. When I mash the gas, it richens up and air/fuel is in the perfect range.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

i run a sd tune on my formula and its great , but my tuner know what hes doing , the one thing that does blow is that since their isnt a maf that if the map sensor dies , your car will just idle and can leave you stranded.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

From a tuning standpoint, MAF is actually much easier as you're tuning to frequency. If you have Banish's book, you'll see the formula for converting MAF frequency to VE table counts and you can make your own custom PID to extrapolate the data for you to fill out the VE table automagically.

The alternative is driving around and logging with the wideband all of the data for the cells in the VE table with A/F % avg difference calculated. Then you just copy it over and you're done. It might be slightly more accurate, but it does take longer to do. On my personal car, that's what I did. And I can always do that anytime there is a weather swing to tighten up the A/F.

I do have the MAF on the car still, but I'm running 1-Bar SD PCM now and run it OLSD.

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys
So what do i need to do to SD tune other than disconnect the MAF sensor ? Sorry guys put am on an Island with very little resources all the help and suggestions i get are truly appreciated

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

No, there's quite a few things to change in the tune. You can leave your MAF connected or remove it, but you want the PCM to see it has failed and revert back to SD. Sometimes, it might take a moment to start as the PCM does this.

This is a good guide for going into SD mode:

http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_edi...to_user_sd.htm

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Yep, disconnect the MAP, set fail frequency to 0, make sure the error is still reported in diagnostics, but set it so no MIL. I recommend that if you're planning to run a permanent SD tune that you completely remove the MAF and replace it with a straight pipe. If you're not using it, might as well remove the restriction...even if it's small. Oh, and disable STFT/LTFT, closed-loop and DFCO so that it doesn't mess with your log.

You'll need a wideband o2 to find the %AFR error to apply to the VE table.

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

so i did the speed density tune setup and the car die after it got to OP temp
i've post a copy of the scan and the tune any suggestions,comments on this ?

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

P0101, 102 amd 103 are not set to MIL on 1st error. Also don't know which tune you are using since there are 2 posted. The second one has really high values in the idle RAF table.

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

sorry its the second tune

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

anyone help

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Help with what?

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

thanks
with the tunes i post i know something is wrong and cant figure it out the car starts to die after it warms ups

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Quoting just to repeat what 2xLS1 said. You need to change your MAF fail codes to MIL on 1st or No MIL (mode 0 or 2). mode 1 or 3 will mess with keeping your MAF out of the mix. And as he said, your idle Base Running Airflow is about 2-3x higher than it should be. You need to run the idle config http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...ve-idle-config

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks.
one last question, i tried to open the ve-idle-config file and it didnt open. do i need to open it when running hptuner editor or scanner ?
thanks again for all the info