24x reluctor wheel with 58x sensor
10-23-2014, 03:48 PM
#1
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24x reluctor wheel with 58x sensor So I have a more or less LS2 with a 24x reluctor wheel. I bought the Holley HP EFI setup for the since I have a front mounted crank sensor. I have a LS1 crank position sensor but just figured out apparently the connectors are different between the LS1 and LS2 crank position sensors. Can I use a 58x crank position sensor with a 24x reluctor wheel?
10-24-2014, 06:27 AM
#3
So I have a more or less LS2 with a 24x reluctor wheel. I bought the Holley HP EFI setup for the since I have a front mounted crank sensor. I have a LS1 crank position sensor but just figured out apparently the connectors are different between the LS1 and LS2 crank position sensors. Can I use a 58x crank position sensor with a 24x reluctor wheel?
No it will not work, you'll need to buy the engine harness for a ls1 and extend the cam sensor plug. The holley ecu can use either the 24x or the 58x but the two engine harness are different.
10-24-2014, 11:43 PM
#7
So I have a more or less LS2 with a 24x reluctor wheel. I bought the Holley HP EFI setup for the since I have a front mounted crank sensor. I have a LS1 crank position sensor but just figured out apparently the connectors are different between the LS1 and LS2 crank position sensors. Can I use a 58x crank position sensor with a 24x reluctor wheel?
Russ Kemp
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10-25-2014, 04:26 PM
#9
WTF! I was on the phone with holley for 30+ minutes (dont remember guys name I spoke with) and emailed a guy name Ricky and holley and both said I had to change the whole harness out. I had the engine on the engine dyno all hooked up ready to go when it wouldnt start realized it wasnt 58x. I have 558-103 engine harness if it matters.
10-25-2014, 11:53 PM
#11
They put me on hold for good while checking with someone, so I assumed they were checking with someone who knew what they were talking about. The worst part is all the specs were given to Holley when ordered, have everything on engine Dyno and then Holley said harness won't work. I specifically asked if I could change the plug because I had one there and in email and on phone they said no. So then the engine had to come off engine Dyno and another harness ordered. They said I'll then need to extend the cam sensor harness since I'm running one in front cover. With 2 harnesses and 2 times on the engine Dyno this is a pretty costly mistake using their advice. This is very frustrating.
10-27-2014, 09:14 AM
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I cut the tap out of the 24x sensor and the 58x connector fits now. Do I need to change the locations of any of the pins or are they the same on both connectors.
03-30-2015, 05:00 PM
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So it looks like they pins are in the same location and it does work. I cut off the locating tab that is different between the 24x and 58x connectors and now the 58x connector fits on the 24x sensor. I set the HP efi software to the 24x setting and it looks like its seeing an RPM signal. I will know if its gonna run as soon as I hook up the fuel.
04-05-2015, 09:05 PM
#18
you just need to do a little wiring to make it work
if you have an ls2 harness, with a 24x wheel and sensor
you need to run a 12v reference voltage wire to the Crank sensor (the harness you have is currently wired for 5v)
The LS1/LS6 main harnesses are wired for +12V crank & cam sensors.
The LS2/LS3/LS7 main harnesses are wired for +5V crank & cam sensors.
P1A-A22: Cam Signal Input
P1A-A30: Crank Signal Input
P1A-A18/14: Sensor Ground Out
P1A-A26: Sensor +5V Ref Out
P1B-B20: EST +12V Out
LS2/4x Cam sensor is wired
A - 5v ref
B - Ground
C - Signal
LS2/58x Crank sensor is Wired
A - Signal
B - Ground
C - 5v Ref
LS1/1x Cam Haness is wired
A - Signal
B - Ground
C - 12v Ref
Ls1/24x Crank sensor is Wired
A - Signal
B - Ground
C - 12v Ref
the cam and crank reference and ground are tied together in the harness, so you will need to clip/cap off the wire on the crank connector for the 5v for refernce volatge and run a new wire for the 12v reference from the P1B connector
beyond that, assuming you wire it up correctly
you need to use "Custom" for your ignition type
select 24x in the crank section
and you didnt mention what cam sensor and wheel you are using....
but you just need to select the appropriate one(I'm assuming its a 4x sensor and wheel)
you do not need to change the reference angle on the crank sensor, but you may need inductive delay (they typically need around 20u-sec)
to test it... you can just put a mark on the crank pulley...really anywhere will work...
then check it with a timing light...
if it moves forward or back when you rev up the engine while doing a static timing check, then you need to change the inductive delay
and the 4x cam sensor should be set as digital Rising
also, your Dwell time should be in the 3.5~5 msec range (if you have coils with the metal heatsink in the top of them keep it to no more than 4.5ms
if you have an ls2 harness, with a 24x wheel and sensor
you need to run a 12v reference voltage wire to the Crank sensor (the harness you have is currently wired for 5v)
The LS1/LS6 main harnesses are wired for +12V crank & cam sensors.
The LS2/LS3/LS7 main harnesses are wired for +5V crank & cam sensors.
P1A-A22: Cam Signal Input
P1A-A30: Crank Signal Input
P1A-A18/14: Sensor Ground Out
P1A-A26: Sensor +5V Ref Out
P1B-B20: EST +12V Out
LS2/4x Cam sensor is wired
A - 5v ref
B - Ground
C - Signal
LS2/58x Crank sensor is Wired
A - Signal
B - Ground
C - 5v Ref
LS1/1x Cam Haness is wired
A - Signal
B - Ground
C - 12v Ref
Ls1/24x Crank sensor is Wired
A - Signal
B - Ground
C - 12v Ref
the cam and crank reference and ground are tied together in the harness, so you will need to clip/cap off the wire on the crank connector for the 5v for refernce volatge and run a new wire for the 12v reference from the P1B connector
beyond that, assuming you wire it up correctly
you need to use "Custom" for your ignition type
select 24x in the crank section
and you didnt mention what cam sensor and wheel you are using....
but you just need to select the appropriate one(I'm assuming its a 4x sensor and wheel)
you do not need to change the reference angle on the crank sensor, but you may need inductive delay (they typically need around 20u-sec)
to test it... you can just put a mark on the crank pulley...really anywhere will work...
then check it with a timing light...
if it moves forward or back when you rev up the engine while doing a static timing check, then you need to change the inductive delay
and the 4x cam sensor should be set as digital Rising
also, your Dwell time should be in the 3.5~5 msec range (if you have coils with the metal heatsink in the top of them keep it to no more than 4.5ms
Last edited by soundengineer; 04-05-2015 at 09:26 PM.
04-05-2015, 09:13 PM
#19
They put me on hold for good while checking with someone, so I assumed they were checking with someone who knew what they were talking about. The worst part is all the specs were given to Holley when ordered, have everything on engine Dyno and then Holley said harness won't work. I specifically asked if I could change the plug because I had one there and in email and on phone they said no. So then the engine had to come off engine Dyno and another harness ordered. They said I'll then need to extend the cam sensor harness since I'm running one in front cover. With 2 harnesses and 2 times on the engine Dyno this is a pretty costly mistake using their advice. This is very frustrating.
there are plenty of people at holley who answer the phones, but really dont know about the wiring...they basically only know that one is wired for the 58x/4x combo and one is wired for the 24x/1x combo
they have no knowledge of the individual wiring....
ALL of the Wiring is in the Help Files and you could have read them to discover for yourself that a simple wiring change would have solved your problem
also, dont be afraid to extend wires when necessary
the only wires you cannot extend with solder are the o2 sensor wires. (o2 sensors use the wires resistance to determine free air oxygen content...solder changes it enough to screw it up on the very small scale the sensor is look at)
04-06-2015, 12:48 PM
#20
there are plenty of people at holley who answer the phones, but really dont know about the wiring...they basically only know that one is wired for the 58x/4x combo and one is wired for the 24x/1x combo
they have no knowledge of the individual wiring....
ALL of the Wiring is in the Help Files and you could have read them to discover for yourself that a simple wiring change would have solved your problem
also, dont be afraid to extend wires when necessary
the only wires you cannot extend with solder are the o2 sensor wires. (o2 sensors use the wires resistance to determine free air oxygen content...solder changes it enough to screw it up on the very small scale the sensor is look at)
they have no knowledge of the individual wiring....
ALL of the Wiring is in the Help Files and you could have read them to discover for yourself that a simple wiring change would have solved your problem
also, dont be afraid to extend wires when necessary
the only wires you cannot extend with solder are the o2 sensor wires. (o2 sensors use the wires resistance to determine free air oxygen content...solder changes it enough to screw it up on the very small scale the sensor is look at)
I have since met with Holley and have a direct number to someone there who knows the Holley system so I dont have to go through anything like this again.