1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

I recently did a cam swap and am about to go through the tuning process again but it's been a long time. When I changed the cam originally I understood there was going to be a learning curve, thankfully it was a pretty popular cam and I could find plenty of bin files for referance. This new cam I'm not so lucky. I'm not finding many bin files at hptuners.

I tuned the car originally on my own and felt there was more in it so I reached out to frost and he helped via email tuning. Then I had the opportunity to put it on the dyno and get it tuned. With no more power than I gained this way I'd really like to take a crack at this myself and tune it at the track before I go reaching out to a tuner, considering it was an hour drive and his shop has become very busy so it's tough to get it in.

My orignal cam was 224/224 .581/.581 112 lsa
The new cam is 231/242 .617/.592 112+2 lsa

I've got the car to idle it surges a bit but I need to go through setting tps and all of that then hook up the computer and go from there.

Are these two cams going to be in the ballpark as far as what they need or am I going to have to make large changes? Just wondering if they are close enough to build off the old tune or if I should start from scratch tuning this one.

eaglegoat

It won't hurt to build of your old tune any more than it would hurt to build off a stock tune.

The fact that you're asking this question suggests that you don't know what you're doing. If that's the case then I would limp it to someone who does. As long as you're closed loop and don't go wot it should limp there just fine.

mrvedit

If you to tune it yourself, do have already have a wideband O2 installed?
I would start with your existing tune. I would be very cautious of any tunes posted on e.g. HPTuners as they are mostly from amateur and novice tuners. Pros rarely post their tunes there - why should they.

If you want max performance from your car you really need a dyno tune.

HISS

iTrader: (52)

It's gonna be a good bit different. The new cam has a lot more overlap, although your wot tables won't be to difficult it's the drivability that will take the most work. I had a similar cam in my car 233/244 111+3. With some time and trial and error you can do it, it just won't be a quickly as a tuner who does it daily.

1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

I do have a wideband. I'm about to go test that out this afternoon and make sure I have all the inputs setup correctly in the scanner. Last time I had a fast wideband that for whatever reason just wouldn't function properly so I tuned it off the trims then went to frost for a second look.

I'm not going to lie I'm a amateur at best with this software and I haven't used it in 5 or 6 years. The car fires up and idles as well as it did with the old cam. It'll hunt a little bit when it first starts but settles down pretty quick. I haven't really driven it yet so I don't know how it's going to act when I let off the throttle. It may stall or hunt for idle.

While the car has been down I've been reading a lot but haven't been able to put it to practice. Unfortunately I just don't learn that way. I need to make a change and see the result then go from there. Since everyone has their own way of getting to the same result I just don't know where to start.

I guess I should have been more specific and asked what areas will need to be addressed now that I've made the change.

Odds are it will get on a dyno but as of right now it's looking like the end of July before I can get it in. I'm just trying to do what I can in the meantime.

1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

I've read drive ability will take time. This cam ends up having 10* overlap where as I think the 224 had 0*. I'm fine with putting in the work. What really needed attention when you started HISS?