jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

My car has been down for about 5 years and is now running and almost ready to be driving. Tuning is getting close to the top of the list and it got me thinking since I do most of my own wrench turning, what do I need to make sure the tuner does (turn off CAGS, calibrate for the larger injectors) and what do I need to make sure he does not do (give the car a bunch of fuel and timing, lock the tune, make the car detonate, etc.)?

I apologize for the vagueness of the question, but it comes from my lack of knowledge about tuning and me getting burned pretty badly by a shop in the past. I also have a tendency to over think situations, but I am just trying to be prepared and get the most out of my tuning session, for my sake as well as the tuners.

I am in DFW and thinking about having Sam Miller or James Karger do the tuning for me. Any advice as to who to choose and why would be appreciated. I don't imagine the job to be too difficult since my car is essentially a cam only M6 '99 SS and these guys tune big cube double power adder cars.

Thank you

tiznodd

iTrader: (4)

Something that was important to me was making sure the tune wasn't locked and having the factory tune emailed to me. I later purchased HP Tuners and started doing my own tuning.

As for how much timing and the like, this is why you pay a tuner. If you don't have confidence in their abilities, you might want to find another tuner.

edge04

iTrader: (9)

first and most important question; what do you want? Meaning what is the car used for? Do you need it to go down the 1/4 fast or around a road course or is this a daily cruiser or weekend warrior? Do you want it to last 1 year or 10? If the tuner doesn't ask you these questions find a new tuner. Once we have answers we can better help you.

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

thanks for the replies

the only experience i have with any tuner around my area is these are the guys that get mentioned the most in the texas members section when asked about DFW tuners.

i have a feeling that I am going to want all three in the fast, cheap and reliable triangle. I want the car to be safely tuned first, and "on kill" second. the car has been down for 5 years and I dont want to go back to that due to an overly aggressive tune. the car is my weekend street car that I would like to take to the road course on occasion. definitely more street car than road course. I want it to last as long as possible.

vwdave

iTrader: (3)

Basically, a nice reliable tune. Youre going to leave some power on the table, but thats ok. Make the cars mods/tuning match the intended use of the vehicle.

SKINNY69

It's a cam only m6... Want the most out of your tuning session? Be sure the car has no leaks, be sure that the WBO2 sensor bung is easy to access, fix any wiring hack jobs before arrival, bring the correct amount of cash and take a seat somewhere out of the tuners hair.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

How big is the cam? The amount of overlap determines if the tune is easy or hard.
Not for full power, but for idle, cold/hot start and overall drive ability. Especially with a manual trans.

Myself, I think a good tuner will want your car for several days. The drive around portion takes the most work.

Somehow I've managed to become a dyno operator/tuner. Tuning late model Mopars of all things. Different but the principals are the same.

Ron

eaglegoat

Judas

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

?????

Ah, turncoat traitor! Never!
I'm going to get some GM cars into the shop. And will continue to tune friends LS turbo stuff on the street and strip.

Funny to see a Hemi without the heads. Very similar to the LS. Actually uncanny.
They make good power, but the cars are tanks.
And Mopar people are just a little bit different.... :-)

Ron

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

i wish i had the cam card in front of me but it is not big. its like low 22X in duration. ill make a note for myself to post the specs when i am around the cam card.

dirtycleansound

that seems like really good advice. I just picked up a 98z29 with a cam and some other mods. the motor seems healthy oil looks good but there are a few things wrong. Needs a coolant temp sensor or wire as it's throwing that code but it's not actually overheating. There is also a pretty sizable transmission leak even though it appears to shift property with no slipping etc. Also looks like a tweaker started to try and work on it. Like you mention there is some questionable wiring work done to it. may need a new harness. anyways, I want to take it somewhere near North Dallas to sort these things out and then tune it. Any recommendations ?

G Atsma

Another old thread, this time 7 years old....
Good luck....