Originally Posted by Darth_V8r

Friend of mine had an issue with air leaking past the FAST blade. He ended up epoxying to close the air gaps. Fully closed blade you could still see light around the edges like a solar eclipse

Originally Posted by bent1

​​​​​​​very interesting. I did combine the grounds on the back of the head on pass side about a month before the prob happened. Don't remember how they where now though

Originally Posted by maroonls1z

You can just look at the harness and tell. There are 3 grounds back there and two can go together and the tps is suppose to be alone

Originally Posted by JakeFusion

You should log STITs whether you do RAFIG or when you're driving around. With RAFIG you can just let the table populate. But if you're logging STITs and LTITs, you can watch your car when you come to a stop and see what it says. If it's over 1g/sec off, adjust your base airflow.

If you do have an aftermarket TB, make sure it's set up properly. Take your IAC Steps table and move it 5 cells to the right. And then adjust your stopper until you're at 60 counts hot at idle (in drive with an auto). And that you're still within 1g/sec STITs.

If it's still hanging, you need to reduce your cracker tables under 28mph to 0 in the 400, 1000, and 1600 columns. You don't want any airflow adders coming to a stop (only if you find you're overshooting do you need to add a little airflow to soften).

Next, make sure your timing from High/Low spark to idle is all the same. You don't want spark jumping around or jumping up.

Next, put your rolling idle about 150rpm above your actual idle. That way on coastdown the PCM will try to hit it until the cracker is disabled and adaptive idle comes into play.

And finally, make sure your VE/MAF tables are at stoich or slightly lean. And make sure your approach down to idle cells is also stoich or slightly lean. Any hiccups there can cause an interesting landing to idle.