01 SS, 111k miles, running real bad!
#1
01 SS, 111k miles, running real bad!
so yeah, factory ls6 motor, the car stutters REAL bad, like it's not getting enough gas I guess? When it's running @normal driving, sometimes when I accelerate and once the car goes over 2000rpm it might stutter, one time it stuttered so bad it sounded like it was backfiring but a lot quieter, and the engine just died, in 2nd over 2krpm.
Here's what I changed so far.
brand new AC Delco fuel pump.
some ******* gas/EVAP/somethingorother module that sits above the gas tank.
new plugs/wires
02 sensors.
Fuel filter.
Cleaned my ported TB.
new gascap.
Factory fuel line has not been looked at, injectors are factory as well.
It's basically a stock ls1 running on LT's and cats, tuned, that's basically it.
the car is running like ****!!!
Any ideas?
Some local shop told me that the only way I'm gonna find out what's going on is to put it on a dyno, but someone else just recently told me that's a bunch of bullshit, but that trying to figure out the problem can take a lot of time, a let's try this and see kinda thing.
Also had the fuel line smoked, that's when I found out I needed to replace that module thang above the gas tank. Once that was replaced, it was re-smoked, and no more leaks.
So there you go.
thoughts???
Here's what I changed so far.
brand new AC Delco fuel pump.
some ******* gas/EVAP/somethingorother module that sits above the gas tank.
new plugs/wires
02 sensors.
Fuel filter.
Cleaned my ported TB.
new gascap.
Factory fuel line has not been looked at, injectors are factory as well.
It's basically a stock ls1 running on LT's and cats, tuned, that's basically it.
the car is running like ****!!!
Any ideas?
Some local shop told me that the only way I'm gonna find out what's going on is to put it on a dyno, but someone else just recently told me that's a bunch of bullshit, but that trying to figure out the problem can take a lot of time, a let's try this and see kinda thing.
Also had the fuel line smoked, that's when I found out I needed to replace that module thang above the gas tank. Once that was replaced, it was re-smoked, and no more leaks.
So there you go.
thoughts???
#4
Sorry forgot to add that info.
MAF replaced, same ****...it even ran worse.
So I put the old MAF back on.
Only code thrown was the evap code, P0442 or something like that, hence doing the smoke thang, and finding out that module above the gas tank had a vacuum leak.
Hasn't thrown a code before or since.
So no vacuum leaks, all that other stuff replaced is brand new
MAF replaced, same ****...it even ran worse.
So I put the old MAF back on.
Only code thrown was the evap code, P0442 or something like that, hence doing the smoke thang, and finding out that module above the gas tank had a vacuum leak.
Hasn't thrown a code before or since.
So no vacuum leaks, all that other stuff replaced is brand new
#5
Staging Lane
Mine is throwing a p0446 (vent solenoid) which is on top of the gas tank and vents the canister. Thankfully, mine runs great. Yours could be the PURGE solenoid which is on the driver's side of the intake. One of the fuel lines wrapped in aluminum foil looking **** runs to it, then a plastic tube runs from the solenoid to the intake. Try that.
**edit**
I looked up p0442 and it's a leak code. So I don't know if the purge solenoid is bad in your case. It's cheap and worth a shot. TPS could also be wacky. I'm stumped other than that.
**edit**
I looked up p0442 and it's a leak code. So I don't know if the purge solenoid is bad in your case. It's cheap and worth a shot. TPS could also be wacky. I'm stumped other than that.
#6
9 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Sorry forgot to add that info.
MAF replaced, same ****...it even ran worse.
So I put the old MAF back on.
Only code thrown was the evap code, P0442 or something like that, hence doing the smoke thang, and finding out that module above the gas tank had a vacuum leak.
Hasn't thrown a code before or since.
So no vacuum leaks, all that other stuff replaced is brand new
MAF replaced, same ****...it even ran worse.
So I put the old MAF back on.
Only code thrown was the evap code, P0442 or something like that, hence doing the smoke thang, and finding out that module above the gas tank had a vacuum leak.
Hasn't thrown a code before or since.
So no vacuum leaks, all that other stuff replaced is brand new
Not to replace it unplug it it will tbrow the pcm into a speed density mode.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
Find someone that has a scanner to look at live data and knows how to interpret it. That is the only way to diagnose late model EFI systems. Anything else you're just easter-egging parts. For what you've wasted on parts that didn't fix it you could have bought a nice scan tool.
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#8
why buy a scan tool if I don't know how to read it?
Anyway I took my car to a local shop, Cunningham Motor Sports, they attached a scanner on it and so far scanner found nothing, other than it seems like the PCM looks like it's shutting off and restarting over and over again, no scans thrown, fuel is coming through, they were convinced it was the TPS sensor, they replaced it, and while driving home it started all over again...just as bad as before.
so scanning it for a 45minute drive produced no results either, other than it telling me that it's not a fuel issue, it's an electrical issue.
so I'm still stuck with my issue.
one of my friends who owns a 2002 V6 thought about it being the key ignition assembly, it does get old, he has an automatic and he's replaced the key and ignition twice...car has 198k miles on it.
Anyway I took my car to a local shop, Cunningham Motor Sports, they attached a scanner on it and so far scanner found nothing, other than it seems like the PCM looks like it's shutting off and restarting over and over again, no scans thrown, fuel is coming through, they were convinced it was the TPS sensor, they replaced it, and while driving home it started all over again...just as bad as before.
so scanning it for a 45minute drive produced no results either, other than it telling me that it's not a fuel issue, it's an electrical issue.
so I'm still stuck with my issue.
one of my friends who owns a 2002 V6 thought about it being the key ignition assembly, it does get old, he has an automatic and he's replaced the key and ignition twice...car has 198k miles on it.
#10
Car finally died while driving it and it refused to start...it would crank, but wouldn't start. After about 3hrs of sitting it finally started and took it to the dealer. $120 for the diagnostics, and I didn't care
It turned out to be the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. $702 to get it replaced, but it's fixed.
The dealer mechanics were baffled as to why it didn't code for anything while this was happening.
It turned out to be the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. $702 to get it replaced, but it's fixed.
The dealer mechanics were baffled as to why it didn't code for anything while this was happening.
Last edited by Carlos01SS; 11-20-2016 at 04:46 AM.
#12
Moderator
You could start with the dealership's service manager, but you may need to find out who at GM overseas dealers in your area and complain to them.
You are welcome to name the dealership here so everyone knows to avoid them.
At least PM me the name.
You can also post reviews on Dealerrater.com, Google and Yelp.
The price should have been 1.6H labor for diagnosis and replacing the $99 (list price) part. (I trust 2xLS1's numbers)
#13
That is beyond outrageous. It is criminal.
You could start with the dealership's service manager, but you may need to find out who at GM overseas dealers in your area and complain to them.
You are welcome to name the dealership here so everyone knows to avoid them.
At least PM me the name.
You can also post reviews on Dealerrater.com, Google and Yelp.
The price should have been 1.6H labor for diagnosis and replacing the $99 (list price) part. (I trust 2xLS1's numbers)
You could start with the dealership's service manager, but you may need to find out who at GM overseas dealers in your area and complain to them.
You are welcome to name the dealership here so everyone knows to avoid them.
At least PM me the name.
You can also post reviews on Dealerrater.com, Google and Yelp.
The price should have been 1.6H labor for diagnosis and replacing the $99 (list price) part. (I trust 2xLS1's numbers)
$120 labor per hour, that's what they charged me.