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Stall tuning required?

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Old 07-19-2016, 09:53 PM
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Default Stall tuning required?

Is there tuning required when putting a stall in? I'm ingnorant when it comes to the more modern trannies...we'll probably the old ones too lol.
Old 07-19-2016, 10:10 PM
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Possibly, the WOT shift points will probably go into the rev limiter before it shifts for sure. This is with a bone stock tune
Old 07-19-2016, 10:15 PM
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It'll be tuned once I get it swapped into my nova. Just wasn't sure what all was necessary to tune on a 4L60E.
Old 07-19-2016, 10:35 PM
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I put a 2800 stall in my Nova and it would not up shift with my foot to the floor, it would run up on the rev limiter and not shift until I lifted a little. Factory tune bases shift on vehicle speed not rpm, the stall converter throws this out of whack.1-2 shift and 2-3 shift never had my foot to the floor long enough to get a WOT 3-4 shift
Old 07-19-2016, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Nova 404
I put a 2800 stall in my Nova and it would not up shift with my foot to the floor, it would run up on the rev limiter and not shift until I lifted a little. Factory tune bases shift on vehicle speed not rpm, the stall converter throws this out of whack.1-2 shift and 2-3 shift never had my foot to the floor long enough to get a WOT 3-4 shift
Tuning took care of it though?
Old 07-20-2016, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Nova 404
I put a 2800 stall in my Nova and it would not up shift with my foot to the floor, it would run up on the rev limiter and not shift until I lifted a little. Factory tune bases shift on vehicle speed not rpm, the stall converter throws this out of whack.1-2 shift and 2-3 shift never had my foot to the floor long enough to get a WOT 3-4 shift

This is incorrect.

Whenever the pcm goes into WOT mode it shifts based on RPM. Part throttle shifts are done by MPH. I have tuned 10+ vehicles and never touch the WOT MPH shift table. I only adjust the WOT shift RPM table.

You shouldn't need any tuning unless you get a slip code. Its kinda a toss up. I have only had one vehicle do it and it was my personal car. I do like to adjust the part throttle shifts with a big stall but its not required.
Old 07-20-2016, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmac89
Is there tuning required when putting a stall in? I'm ingnorant when it comes to the more modern trannies...we'll probably the old ones too lol.
It depends on the stall. A smaller stall or tighter converter you can get by without tuning easier than a larger stall looser converter. Sometimes you will get a random misfire code with a stall. Its better to get it tuned for the stall to get the most of it.

Originally Posted by Brando5641
This is incorrect.

Whenever the pcm goes into WOT mode it shifts based on RPM. Part throttle shifts are done by MPH. I have tuned 10+ vehicles and never touch the WOT MPH shift table. I only adjust the WOT shift RPM table.

You shouldn't need any tuning unless you get a slip code. Its kinda a toss up. I have only had one vehicle do it and it was my personal car. I do like to adjust the part throttle shifts with a big stall but its not required.
It still uses MPH and RPM, both have to be met. When your raising the the RPM higher and leaving the MPH stock it will 99% of the time hit the MPH before the RPM so then it shift off RPM basically but both still have to be met. On some high horsepower vehicles with stalls alot of times you will have to lower the MPH lower than stock to get it to shift at WOT.
Old 07-20-2016, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Brando5641
Whenever the pcm goes into WOT mode it shifts based on RPM.
Sorry, but this isn't correct.

WOT shifting uses both MPH and RPM in an AND statement for shift logic. Both inputs must be equal or greater than reference for a shift to occur.

A good way to correctly tune shifts is to make a MPH x RPM spreadsheet in excel using your gear, tire heights, transportation ratios and observed convertor slip. I set the RPM about 200 lower than desired and MPH 1 or 2 lower than what the spreadsheet tells me. Then I can micro manage it from there.

The reason I do it this way is that MPH has less number resolution and therefore updates slower than RPM. On a high HP car with gears, RPM moves quickly! I find it easier to get exactly the desired shift RPM by working backwards and using all the tables available.
Old 07-21-2016, 12:06 AM
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I do it every time I tune a vehicle. I have never touched the MPH table. Just last week I had the trans freshened up in my car because it wouldn't make the 2-3 shift above 6400 rpm. Turned it down to 6 till i got it fixed and then turned it back up to 7K. I dont see how I can get lucky on 10+ vehicles.
Old 07-22-2016, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Brando5641
I do it every time I tune a vehicle. I have never touched the MPH table. Just last week I had the trans freshened up in my car because it wouldn't make the 2-3 shift above 6400 rpm. Turned it down to 6 till i got it fixed and then turned it back up to 7K. I dont see how I can get lucky on 10+ vehicles.
Lsx has mentioned it already. If you only raised the rpm table for the wot shift, the cars you have tuned are just luckily meeting the mph wot table first and then meeting the Rpm table second. Which is what you want but you still should adjust both. I set the mph table 3 mph less than the speed at which the actuall shift takes place. That way the mph is meet, soon as it sees the set rpm, it's shifting out just where I want it. I also like the copy the wot mph table and paste it in the 100 on the normal shift table so that they match.
Old 07-22-2016, 09:27 PM
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I like to match the tables, then adjust the mph shift to be lower than the rpm. This way, if there is any trans slip, the rpm will cause an upshift. If the mph is higher, you could burn a clutch completely out instead of having enough left to limp home. I would be more worried about properly matching the part throttle stuff with a stall, since the factory settings are low enough to build a lot of extra heat with much of any higher stall rpm. I suppose it is always worth repeating that an extra trans cooler is never a bad idea with a higher stall.
Old 07-22-2016, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gametech
I like to match the tables, then adjust the mph shift to be lower than the rpm. This way, if there is any trans slip, the rpm will cause an upshift. If the mph is higher, you could burn a clutch completely out instead of having enough left to limp home. I would be more worried about properly matching the part throttle stuff with a stall, since the factory settings are low enough to build a lot of extra heat with much of any higher stall rpm. I suppose it is always worth repeating that an extra trans cooler is never a bad idea with a higher stall.
Speaking of trans coolers how do most of you guys hook them up? I've always went through the radiator cooler first then to the external one.



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