00fxd

Greetings Gents.
Can someone please tell me if this current draw is acceptable? 2004 LQ4 conversion in my 1965 Chev. I think I am measuring on the correct scale. My Batt goes dead after 2-3 days of non use and doesn't seem to like to run the lights too long with engine off. The batt really isn't old and is on a good batt tender in the off season. I am suspecting the battery but I want to be sure.

00fxd

I should mention that this is a new condition. The car has been flawlessly operational otherwise for 6ish years.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

a 10 milliamp draw will not kill a good battery is just a couple of days. I think you battery is not good. Take it to a parts store that sells batteries for a load test if you don't have one.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

I agree. A 10ma draw is nothing. I'd suspect the battery is bad.

00fxd

Thank you both. Interestingly I notice that after the batt has been disconnected for 10+ minutes and I re-connect there is a small arc. So I check with the amp meter and observed a 3-6 milliamp draw for a 1-2 seconds and then it returns to the 10 milliamp draw. Is this normal behavior? This is with the original 2004 ECM and a stereo that may have a draw to retain it's settings.
Thanks again

ctd

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking a scale issue with the meter, a spark or an arc as you describe will be in amps not milliamps.

I would be looking for 3-6amp draw when the battery is first connected before it cycles into sleep mode.

00fxd

Thanks ctd. That may be what I am seeing - I may be having a problem with decimal points. Good info and a good learning experience.
Regards, Frank

ctd

iTrader: (1)

Revisiting your photo it occurred to me how you have connected the meter, I'm guessing you have the meter leads across the battery? Your meter leads need to be in series with positive or negative battery connections. The negative being the safest!

If I'm correct make sure move the meter leads to the 20A position before you power up & observe those readings before using the 2A configuration.

00fxd

Thanks ctd, I did initially test at batt [across the + term] on the 20amp position. Subsequent readings of hook up after sitting were taken on the 2amp position which may account for readings that confused me. It answers a question for me that the ECM takes a 3-6 amp initial draw.
Regards, Frank

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Your battery lasted 6 years. It doesn't take a big leap to say your battery is now bad.

00fxd

My post said to the car has been operating flawlessly (referring to its LS conversion and specifically the charging system) for the past 6ish years.
My post also mentions that the battery is not that old.
The battery is only a couple years old and was a good one.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Just had a top of the line 72 month Oreilly battery die in exactly 3 years (they looked it up in their system) in our 02 Trailblazer. Age means nothing in batteries these days.

00fxd

I too am aware that todays batteries are not the quality that they were in the past.
My goal in this thread is to refine my battery testing procedure.

ctd

iTrader: (1)

I've a C5 & a C6, battery eater's. I set up my Fluke meter in series with the negative cable, as well I've an inductive MA meter & a DCV meter.......

With a note pad I watch them for 10 minutes, you can see all the computers cycling, waking up then back to sleep. I will also jot down in the morning & in the evening draw & surface voltage.

The C5 has an intermittent BCM sometimes it will go to sleep or not. C6 will do OK for 2-3 days then it seems to wake up & go into a large draw & kill the battery.

I've done all I can with the battery eaters, I need a Tech II to go any further. I won't take either car to the GM dealer, no level of trust on my part to hand the keys over.

00fxd

ECM's waking up and going to sleep ..... My '05 C10 sat unused for 5 days recently and when we went to start nothing, no int lights. Put a slow charge into it and it has been fine since with no long 'non use' intervals. This one has an older batt tho.