gavinball13

Engine: Stock LS1 from 2000 Camaro
Transmission: Stock T56 from 2000 Camaro

Swapped into a 1981 Camaro
Long Tube headers 3" collector
2.5" exhaust pipes with an X-crossover
New EFI gas tank with 58 psi pump
Corvette filter/regulator

Problems: My car is idling really rough and seems to have sluggish throttle response. It honestly feels like I have a 383 stroker in it. The left (drivers side) long tube header measures at ~210 degrees F yet the right (passenger) long tube header measures at ~80 degrees F

I checked my O2 sensor wires both sides are getting 12V from the pink wires, 0.01 ohms from the ground wires and the purple and tan wires have good continuity. My computer is grounded to the drivers side head. Im not running cats or emissions but I would like O2 sensors.

I bought one of those OBD2 scanners and it throws a P0135 code (bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit) but no other code. The right O2 was reading at ~.85v (850 mV) and the left O2 was reading at ~.41v (410 mV)

Im thinking this might be clogged injectors, leaking injectors, bad spark plug wires, possible coil pack bad or plug not plugged in. Just want to pick this communities brain.

Please help! Id like to get my swap back on the road. Im deploying here soon with the military and I want to cruise with it with the summer time that ill have

Feel free to email me at gavinball13@gmail.com if you KNOW whats wrong or want to get in touch with me sooner

gavinball13

Also, Im not entirely sure that my O2 sensors are correct. One has a longer wiring harness on it. Im not sure if maybe I accidentally put a post-catalytic converter O2 sensor on it. I really dont want to but Im tempted to buy x2 o2 sensors for a 2000 camaro.

I unplugged both o2 sensors and started the car to see if the temps would even out on each sides headers but that didn't change anything. So maybe its not the o2 sensors....and the car still ran rough after that

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

" and the left O2 was reading at ~.41v (410 mV)"
Obviously, not working. Swap side to side, and see what they read.

gavinball13

I swapped the O2 sensors from side to side and got the same results. Right header still extremely cool.
I believe .45 volts means that bank/side is running stochiometrically right? anything above .45 indicates that bank is running rich and anything below .45 indicates that bank is running lean?

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

Not necessarily. Are the voltages on both sides moving at all? Within the middle of the voltage scale you will not see a stable voltage unless the sensor is bad. If it's maxed at .9 or .1 you are very rich or very lean.

.45 generally is stoich but it will only sit there momentarily. A scanner takes a snap shot most of the time and is not what you want. You need live readings.

One side being ambient temp leads me to think no spark on that bank.

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

If you have a scan tool where you can look at live data that would be helpful. May find that you do have one connected as rear o2 sensor. Are you allowing it to run long enough to get it into openloop? this is where the fuel trims respond to the 02 info and adjust to maintain stoich AFR.

You can also pull a plug on the bank that is colder and see if its wet looking or fowled. what is likely going on is your ecm is reading a lean for that bank and adding to much fuel trying to richen it up and the O2 is non responsive.

for reference a dead o2 will read .3-.4 or if the heating element is not warming it up. once it gets into open loop it should be switching high and low trying to maintain 14.1. so it would bounce back and forth between .1-.9 Ml.

If you switched sides and got the same result and check some fuses to make sure you havnt popped an O2 fuse. If thats good id start checking plugs and wires.

I recently went througha similar issue on bank 2 ended up being a blown fuse not letting the o2 warm up so it would always read lean. which was .385

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

That is closed loop not open loop.

OP I'm betting your wiring harness for the O2s is swapped L&R. With a scan tool that reads data see if the fuel trims on one bank are way + and the other bank are way -. If they are that is most likely your problem

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

damn it I always get those backwards, thanks for the correction

gavinball13

Both the high and low (purple and tan) wires are getting continuity. Both pink wires are getting 12v and both ground wires are getting 0 omhs. So am I right in assuming that the O2 wiring down to the plug is fine?

My scanner said the
Driver side O2 reads between .410-.420 v
passenger side O2 reads between .840-.880 v

So possible causes:

x2 bad O2 sensors
bad spark plug wires (passenger side)
bad coil pack wiring (passenger side)
bad injector wiring (passenger side)
clogged injectors (passenger side)
dirty MAF sensor
bad computer

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Unplug the passenger side O2 and see if B2 S1 goes to 450mv on the scanner.

gavinball13

Rookie question but when people say unplug O2 sensor do you mean unplug it at the harness or unbolt the sensor from the header?

G Atsma

Unplug at the harness

gavinball13

Update:

i just checked all 8 of the coil pack pink power wires....roughly the same voltage 11.8 volts on drivers side +/- .01v

passenger side is getting roughly 10.8 bolts +/- .1v

gavinball13

Update I disconnected the passenger side o2, connected driver o2, found a pcv line on pass valve cover slightly split so I superglued and zip tied it back together

started the car, idles A LOT smoother however it's backfiring right now LOUDLY. So much I'm hesitant on running it.

Just trying to give you gurus as much info to work with right now

gavinball13

***with passenger o2 unplugged and driver o2 plugged in***

At first it was idling smooth with some backfiring but I let it go for a bit. Backfiring stopped after 3-5 minutes of idling. P0134 and P0154 codes went away. Exhaust manifold temps started to read roughly even on both sides according to my IR thermometer. After a bit the computer threw the P0134 and P0154 codes again and the engine started to idle a bit rough again. It also started swaying in rpms ever so slightly.

im going to swap o2 sensors.....again....and see if I get the same results.....

seems like its starting to narrow down to faulty o2 sensors? Just crazy if that is the case that they would be that intermittent

gavinball13

Bravo to the fella that suggested my wiring harnesses were swapped, THEY WERE!

HOWEVER, my computer is still throwing only a P0134 (bank 1 sensor 1 inactive) code but NOT a P0154 (bank 2 sensor 1 inactive) code

what does my scanner tell me when I pull up the live data? Bank 1 is oscillating correctly between .1 and .9 yet bank 2 is all over the place (sometimes oscillating like it should then it will sit at the ends of the .1 .9 spectrum for a while causing the engine to run rough.

Ill seriously pay pal somebody money if it leads to a fix......this ***** so frustrating

gametech

iTrader: (1)

You should take individual tube temperatures on the headers with an infrared thermometer or other tool. I believe you will find 2 cylinders misfiring on one bank. This is just a theory related to your backfiring issue and previous wiring irregularities.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

you could have fouled the O2 with soot with the harness crossed.

gavinball13

I bought a pair of new o2 sensors to rule them out as possibility. Engine isn't throwing any codes anymore. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is oscillating between .1v and .9 volts like it should. The live data graph appears like a sine wave......


However Bank 2 Sensor 1 is oscillating randomly, sometimes getting stuck at one voltage value for a bit (causing the engine to run rough) making the live data graph appear to be linear at times and somewhat of a wave at other times. But it seems random. Not a somewhat consistent wave like the other bank


Bad or dirty fuel injectors?
Dirty MAF?
Check MAF or MAP voltage?

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Has to be something unique to Bank 2. MAF and MAP are common to both banks.