Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

My check gages light is flickering. Only while accelerating or revving the engine.

It doesn't do it when I hit bumps or hit the dash area.

Voltage gage is fluctuating from 11 to 13.8.I see these same fluctuations on VCM voltage when logging with HPtuners.

Received a MIL malfuntion DTC (premature) once but then it went away and stayed gone.

Flickering will actually stop if car is idled for awhile. The flickering went away for about 5 minutes while driving this afternoon and then reappeared during the drive.

I'm thinking alternator.

I've checked most connections but have not disassembled dash yet.

any ideas?

monodax

The Check Guages light will illuminate if something is on the borderline of it's threshold especially Alternator. I have seen it illuminate on cars were the voltage dropped down past 11 volts or on the edge. Or if your oil pressure or temp is out of range it will illuminate.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

The only gage that was acting up was the volts

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

It is normal for it to "flicker" on and off rapidly instead of staying lit?

It flickers like there's a bad connection or something. The volts needle swings back and forth slowly nothing out of whack there.

monodax

It would flicker if it was right on the edge of the threshold that is set in the code in the instrument panel that illuminates it. I was under the impression your voltage reading where fluctuating in the red zone back to the middle. I would put a volt meter in the car and hook it to your Cig lighter or something that you could sit in the driver's seat and monitor the voltage readings. If your voltage readings are really not what the guage says it is then their may be other issues.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I was getting 11.4 at the batt while running. 12.4 while off.

Load test killed the car. The alternator is trashed.

The earliest I can get one is tomorrow afternoon around 4:30. Unfortunately I have a race tomorrow and I am supposed to leave at 8:00am. This couldn't have happened at a worse time. ...

monodax

I have an Autozone near me that is open 24 hours. Check and see if you can find one around you that may be open 24 hours as well if you need to go quick.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I didn't know they wer eopen 24hrs. That's convenient.

I ordered one through them today. The can get it by tomorrow at 4pm. The racing starts at 9am...

Ah well. At least it'll be fixed tomorrow.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the help

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

OK, new alternator is in as well as new Optima yellow top and I am still having the problem. It is not charging.

When I first started the car after the alternator swap the volts shot up to aroun 14.7 and then after about 2 miles of driving they dropped back down.

I'm checking connections and grounds now.

Anyone have any suggestions??

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I almost forgot. The radio display now looks funny at times. some of the lines in the characters are missing. so an 8 will look like a 5 etc.

monodax

Is the (thin) 20 guage wire going to your alternator fully plugged into the harness and snapped on good.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

The red wire w/the 4 port weatherpack? If that is the one you're talking about yes it is plugged in and seated.

What is this wire (exciter?)? Where does it go?

This wire is the only thing I can think of as being my problem.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

Well the autozone alternator is going back.

I jumpered the exciter wire to a 12volt source and got nothing. I think it's crap right out of the box.

BTW: the red wire going into the alternator broke off during the removal.Great now I need to get another connector.

I'll probably get a new Autolite alternator. They sell them at advance unless someone knows where I can get something better.

monodax

I was suspecting that your alternator may be bad as it can happen with new rebuilt units. The connector may not be that bad. You may be able to solder a piece of wire to what little wire you see sticking out of the connector and then connect that wire to the red wire. You can also take the boot off the weatherpack connector and get to the wires a little bit easier to get a good solder connection to it.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I have the alternator being rebuilt by a local company. They suggested I have it rebuilt as a one wire and avoid the exciter altogether. They are also making it a 140amp unit. All for a bit less than NAPA would sell me a reman. The dealer wanted $307 + core BTW.

I am having interstate batteries make me some custom cables. I am going to 4ga throughout.

While removing the cables so I could take them to interstate the starter positive lug broke off.... so I am having that rebuilt as well.

this sucks...But things should be up and running by the weekend.

pylesm0311

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget to check your plugs and wires!! Sounds exactly like a problem I had with my Z28.