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P0153 code.

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Old 07-30-2004, 01:03 AM
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Default P0153 code.

Bank 2 sensor 1 slow response. Car throws the code every 200-400 miles or so.

I have a brand new Delco 02 sensor in there and it still throws the code. Exhaust is Jet-Hot longtubes, cats, Borla catback. The whole exhaust is welded except for the clamps from the headers to the front of the Y-pipe (a trustworthy exhaust shop said that part would never leak...are they correct or is it possible?) Rear 02 sensors are deleted. Headers have been on the car about 9 months.

What could cause this?
Old 07-30-2004, 01:06 AM
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are you running really rich at part throttle?
Old 07-30-2004, 01:13 AM
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The car was tuned earlier in the year by NoGo and the A/F was pretty much right on after the fact, maybe slightly rich.

Here's the dyno sheet that shows it (no mods since then.)
Attached Thumbnails P0153 code.-dyno2_sm.jpg  
Old 07-31-2004, 11:19 PM
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Bank two would be on the right side of the car in the header right? and the front 02 sensor is for air/fuel and the back 02 is for after converter read outs and, both will throw a codes if they are bad right? Because my SES light came on for a bad 02 bank 2



Thanks Dan

Last edited by LS1999pewterZ; 08-01-2004 at 11:39 AM.
Old 08-01-2004, 11:42 PM
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I'm still looking for an answer for my problem. You've got to be more specific with yours.
Old 08-02-2004, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1999pewterZ
Bank two would be on the right side of the car in the header right? and the front 02 sensor is for air/fuel and the back 02 is for after converter read outs and, both will throw a codes if they are bad right? Because my SES light came on for a bad 02 bank 2



Thanks Dan
Yes either one will. What is the definition of the DTC you are getting? I just went through this, I got a Low voltage definition for sensor1 bank 1. I replaced the sensor in question and my car got faster and the DTC went away.
Old 08-02-2004, 09:51 PM
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Anyone got anything on my problem?
Old 08-03-2004, 09:04 AM
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There are a couple of solutions in this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/193534-02-s-not-switching-codes-hp-tuners-kill.html
Old 08-03-2004, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TXNC5
There are a couple of solutions in this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193534
I appreciate the help, but a lot of it's over my head. Can you sum it up in layman's terms (I know next to nothing regarding the computer, sensors, etc.)
Old 08-03-2004, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Tailwind
I appreciate the help, but a lot of it's over my head. Can you sum it up in layman's terms (I know next to nothing regarding the computer, sensors, etc.)
The driver’s side is referred to as Bank 1, and the passenger side is referred to as Bank 2. Two of the oxygen sensors are located before the cats (in between the motor and the cats). These two sensors are both referenced as ‘Sensor 1’. Therefore, the sensor with the id B1S1 is ‘Bank 1 Sensor 1’ which would be the driver’s side before the cat. B2S1 would be ‘Bank 2 Sensor 1’ which would be the passenger’s side before the cat. The other two oxygen sensors are located after the cats. These are referred to as ‘Sensor 2’. Therefore, B1S2 would be the driver’s side after the cat. Etc. So, many people refer to Sensor 1 location as the front O2’s, and Sensor 2 location as the rear O2’s.

I do not know about your year model, but I have a 2001 corvette. The rear O2 sensors run at a higher wattage, and they cost more. Because of long tube headers, the front (or Sensor 1 location) O2’s are much farther away from the motor than the stock location. Thus, they tend to heat up and cool off, or they simply don’t switch enough between rich and lean.

Well, somebody figured out that the rear (Sensor 2 location) O2’s utilize a higher wattage. Therefore, they stay hot (i.e. they don’t cool off). The problem is that the plug for the rear O2’s is not the same shape (at least not on my car). The front O2’s utilize a flat 4 prong plug, but the rear O2’s utilize a square 4 prong plug. So, you can purchase two rear O2 sensors. The only differences between them and the front O2 sensors are the wattage used and the shape of the connector (at least that I know of). Remove your existing front O2 sensors, replace them with the two new ones. The only problem now is that the plug won’t fit. Well, LG Motorsports (and maybe others) makes a simple extension/converter that will make convert the square plug into a flat plug.

Does that make sense? You need to buy: 2 rear O2 sensors, 2 converters.

This is what I did, and it seems to work.

Somebody else mentioned in that thread these two replacement O2 sensors as well: Bosch 13111 or the Denso Equiv. I would assume that they both come with the square shaped plug, so you would still need the converters to make them fit a flat plug.

I don’t own an F-body, so my fundamental assumption is that your front O2 sensors have a flat-shaped plug. If it is square-shaped, then you don’t need to buy the converters.
Old 08-03-2004, 03:07 PM
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I thought the 02 sensors on the F-body were the same on all four, completely interchangable between front and rear. My rears have been deleted through LS1Edit, and I have a new Delco sensor up front on the side that's throwing the code. I'll look into that.

Worse comes to worse I can switch the driver's side and passenger side front 02s and see if the same code comes back.
Old 08-03-2004, 03:22 PM
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i thought bank 1 was passenger side?....for instance my girls brother failed emissions said 02 heater circuit failure or something like that bank 1 sensor 1....was todl to replace front passenger 02 sensor

ill find the thread on Stangnet.com...is it different for F-bod's?
Old 08-03-2004, 03:26 PM
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http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=486750



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