2fast99Z

new member here!!!
anyway, SES light came on and code p0430 pops up at auto zone. the guy tells me it's probably an o2 sensor, so i replaced bank 2 pre-converter. the light didn't go off so replaced bank 2 post converter. the light still didn't go off. i went back to auto zone and another guy scanned it. same code comes up and this time he got me to buy a bottle of emission system cleaner that is suppose to take care of any carbon buildup. He said to fill up the tank and dump that stuff in it and run the tank till empty, but he didn't promise that it would take care of my problem. If this doesn't work, does anyone have any idea of what i could/should do?

Another_User

That code is for catalytic converter efficiency, right bank (drivers side I think). I would have replaced the O2 sensor first. I would also be concerned about any "emission system cleaner" that they put in. If you do/did have a bad catalytic converter you can check a few things. Sometimes they will glow cherry red at night when they get hot, and a lot of times they will rattle. Have you reset the PCM? I don't know if that code will go away just because you fixed the problem. You may want to pull the battery cable for 15 minutes and then take a drive and see if it comes back on.

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

Also if it catylitic efficieny those are controlled by the sensors POST cat. You changed the pre cat sensor. that may be the reason the code hasnt gone out

horist

.... is autozone commision based?


as mentioned ... catalyst ineficciency is only set by post converter O2s ... however the code does not instantly reset .. takes 3-4 driving cycles ... bet bet is to do a PCM reset after swappin the POST CAT O2s

put key in RUN position
under the hood pull the PCM IGN and PCM BAT fuses (they are labeled as such on the top of the fuse covers)
wait 10 seconds (I usually turn the key off on off on a few times... I dunno what the actual GM procedure is... just something I do)
w/key in ON position (on/run) replace PCM IGN fuse, then PCM BAT fuse ... turn key off.. wait ... then start the car... this should clear any SES lights you have

then watch to see if the SES comes back... if it comes back.. then you have a problem

horist

Also.. helps if you list all your mods in your signature (even if your sig is "stock 99 Z28")

assuming you're stock .. if you're getting a P0430 : Catalyst System Low Efficiency Bank 2 code ... then you're catalytic converter is prolly dead... however.. I believe there's an 8 year 50k mile warranty mandated by the feds? (not sure on the mileage but i'm sure there's an 8 year warranty on emissions ****)

so.. give us more details on your car please and we can help further

regarding what the autozone monkey said... those guys are useless ... his "drive till an empty tank" means drive a couple hundred miles (his manual may say "drive 1 full tanki" )in a couple hundred miles... that's many starts by most people... the PCM operates on car starts.... (foir SES lights) ... and DO NOT run the tank to empty... the fuel pump is cooled by the gas in the tank... run it empty and the pump will run hot.. prolly wont brake the first time... but hurts the life on the pump

2fast99Z

well, it's not stock, thats for shure...I've got SLP Long Tubes, SLP high flow cats, and lots of other goodies that wouldn't have anything to do with emissions anyway. I did replace both pre and post o2 sensors. and i also have reset the PCM 2 or 3 times already and after driving for a bit the light kept coming back on. i also did the on-off-on-off key turning thing and that didn't help either. i e-mailed SLP and they said that they could program the code out of the OBD system completley, but i'm not sure how that would work, and i would probably have to send them my computer to do that and that means i don't have a car for a few weeks probably. also, if it means anything, the car is not running ruff at all. it runs just fine. no knocks, rattles, or anything that would suggest bad converters. they aren't even a year old yet either which kinds ticks me off that it could even be a possibility.

Another_User

You could always just put O2 sims in there and forget about it.

2fast99Z

but will that solve my problem? i mean it seems to me that the PCM is telling me that the converter is bad and not the o2 sensor. so would sims make a big difference, and how much more am i gonna have to shell out for them?

Another_User

I am not sure. They are slightly pricey, but you only need to buy them once. Many of the sponsors sell them. Yes, it will prevent you from getting that error code, unless by some freak accident your wiring got fried. I doubt that though. They are made for people with headers that don't bother to run converters to prevent that very same problem. Now will it tell you why it is happening? No. If you have already replaced everything you want to replace it is an easy alternative.

On another note, has anybody seen high-flow cats causing this error code?

2fast99Z

ok. so i went to RK Sport's website and sims are gonna be 200 bucks for a set of two, which quite honestly doesn't sound all that bad considering that one regular o2 sensor cost me 75 at the auto zone. but one last question, the o2 sim looked really REALLY weird from the picture on the web page. how do i install 'em if their aren't any threads for it to screw into my y-pipe? is this a dumb question? i know i must be sounding stupid, but exhaust really isn't my thing. excuse my ignorance. regardless, if sims will solve my problem and get my car inspected so i can be legal again, i'll friggin' do it in a heartbeat!

2fast99Z

also, i figure that maybe running regular unleaded could have caused carbon buildup that the o2 sensor was picking up on. i haven't put regular in my tank in a while now cause another guy in my camaro club said it could happen <93 octane only now>, so is it possible the guy at auto zone was right about running that emissions crap through the fuel system?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I had that code come up, it was because I had the air pump turned off, and the cat's weren't heating up fast enough, that and the drivers side cat is way farther back, and doesn't get as hot. Delete the code with ls1edit, and be done with it. Also, turn off the rear o2's in edit, and all the other stupid crap and eliminate it, most of it does nothing anyways. It will save you a bunch of headaches in the future.

Another_User

Oh...he can edit the PCM. That works too.

2fast99Z

which would be cheaper? editing the pcm or sims? plus, i read that going with sims can give about 20 more HP. or is this just a evil ploy to get me to buy 'em? 200 bucks to fix a problem and get 20 more horsepower sounds like a deal to me, but you guys seem smarter than me on this topic, so gimme your advice...edit or sims?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

get an edit tune done, and be done with it. You will not gain any HP with simms, that's b.s. Have the rear o2's turned off in edit. Putting simms in is a way to get the stock computer to work with no cat. converters, like if you put on headers and ORY and did not get a tune, the simm's will stop the computer from thinking that the rear o2's aren't working.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You may get 20 hp from a good tune......

Another_User

Yeah. That would be less expensive than getting an editor of some type, and probably around the same as the O2 simms. Probably your best bet to have a tuner tune it.

2fast99Z

thanks guys. i called about having the tunning done here locally and they said 400 bucks. i just ordered some sims from LG Motorsports instead. altogether it cost me about 115 bucks. fingers crossed now!