How did you install your LM-1?
10-27-2004, 05:15 PM
#2
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I have kept mine loose, as I don't plan to run it full
time in one car. I have a pretty good idea of the
narrowband O2 voltage that corresponds to the
happy place, from lining up the wideband and
narrowband results. I did buy the dash gauge
but don't have any good place to put it. I'm not
a big fan of A-pillar gauges. Too "furious" looking.
The power feed under the driver's seat is stout,
full time hot and underused. But you want switched
power for the LM1. Might put a relay under there,
run one wire up under the carpet to pick up IGN
for the coil from under the dash, and stuff the
LM1 under the seat when you are not looking at it.
I ran my cutout wiring under the carpet from the
driver's seat, back under the rears and out the
soft rubber plug under the passenger's side rear
seat. If you are going to hard mount the unit then
that route might be good, get the bung welded
close by that point. Might want to get the extra-
length spare cable they sell and use that for the
in-car cable pull, keep the regular one for when
/ if you need to put it to some other vehicle
temporarily.
At the time of my cutout install, I had an O2 bung
welded into the side of my I-pipe, by the passenger
side door rear edge, facing outward. That lets me
run the cable in there and use the door to "clamp"
it against the weatherstrip.
I used an 18mm Toyota oil pan plug for that bung.
I think that's preferable to the Allen head ones
you get with the LM1. I had a car at my place to
do some tuning, we wanted to hook up the meter
to one of his Y-pipe bungs but could not get the
Allen-head plugs out, they had apparently rusted
inside and wouldn't turn more than a half; couldn't
get enough of a bite to torque on them with the
Allen wrench but a big ugly bolt-head, you can
put the impact gun to. Anti-sieze that bung plug
if you're not going to be taking it out frequently.
time in one car. I have a pretty good idea of the
narrowband O2 voltage that corresponds to the
happy place, from lining up the wideband and
narrowband results. I did buy the dash gauge
but don't have any good place to put it. I'm not
a big fan of A-pillar gauges. Too "furious" looking.
The power feed under the driver's seat is stout,
full time hot and underused. But you want switched
power for the LM1. Might put a relay under there,
run one wire up under the carpet to pick up IGN
for the coil from under the dash, and stuff the
LM1 under the seat when you are not looking at it.
I ran my cutout wiring under the carpet from the
driver's seat, back under the rears and out the
soft rubber plug under the passenger's side rear
seat. If you are going to hard mount the unit then
that route might be good, get the bung welded
close by that point. Might want to get the extra-
length spare cable they sell and use that for the
in-car cable pull, keep the regular one for when
/ if you need to put it to some other vehicle
temporarily.
At the time of my cutout install, I had an O2 bung
welded into the side of my I-pipe, by the passenger
side door rear edge, facing outward. That lets me
run the cable in there and use the door to "clamp"
it against the weatherstrip.
I used an 18mm Toyota oil pan plug for that bung.
I think that's preferable to the Allen head ones
you get with the LM1. I had a car at my place to
do some tuning, we wanted to hook up the meter
to one of his Y-pipe bungs but could not get the
Allen-head plugs out, they had apparently rusted
inside and wouldn't turn more than a half; couldn't
get enough of a bite to torque on them with the
Allen wrench but a big ugly bolt-head, you can
put the impact gun to. Anti-sieze that bung plug
if you're not going to be taking it out frequently.
10-27-2004, 06:49 PM
#3
I've got my Valentine 1 hardwired to the ignition-on wiring under the dash. Can I have both crimped on without a problem?
I think that's a good idea to route the electric cutout wiring since it's behind the rear passenger seat typically. But I want my sensor pre-cat, which means in the collector on the passenger side or a bit more leeway on the driver side. Can I zip-tie it under the car and route it in near the shifter console?
I think that's a good idea to route the electric cutout wiring since it's behind the rear passenger seat typically. But I want my sensor pre-cat, which means in the collector on the passenger side or a bit more leeway on the driver side. Can I zip-tie it under the car and route it in near the shifter console?
10-27-2004, 07:48 PM
#4
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I have a different wideband system but I made a small cut in the boot around the shifter base and ran the cable up through it. It only required me to pull the panel off that goes around the shifter. It didn't take but 10-15 minutes to route the cable.
10-27-2004, 11:55 PM
#5
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I had mine routed as such:
Bung in 8-10" from header collector.
LM-1 facing outside of car, easier to reach, between header and SFC.
Wiring ran ziptied to the SFC with a drip loop for bad weather, to the grommet under the drivers seat. I cut a "+" in the center of the grommet to seal around the wiring. Finished running the wiring under the carpet, to the center console, and tapped into the power wire, I think it was for ASR (traction control) so it would be IGN-ON.
Then ran the wires into the center console where the LM-1 fit perfectly. I would rather have had the remote gauge, but it wasnt out at the time of my deployment to Afghanistan.
Only issue I had was the first sensor I didnt use silicone around the connector and it corroded and or shorted out, inop after that. Replaced, at same time ordered a couple extra sensors and bungs.
good luck.
Charlie
Bung in 8-10" from header collector.
LM-1 facing outside of car, easier to reach, between header and SFC.
Wiring ran ziptied to the SFC with a drip loop for bad weather, to the grommet under the drivers seat. I cut a "+" in the center of the grommet to seal around the wiring. Finished running the wiring under the carpet, to the center console, and tapped into the power wire, I think it was for ASR (traction control) so it would be IGN-ON.
Then ran the wires into the center console where the LM-1 fit perfectly. I would rather have had the remote gauge, but it wasnt out at the time of my deployment to Afghanistan.
Only issue I had was the first sensor I didnt use silicone around the connector and it corroded and or shorted out, inop after that. Replaced, at same time ordered a couple extra sensors and bungs.
good luck.
Charlie
