fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

Please guy don't jump on me.I'm kind of new to technology in tunning aspect.
When you install the LM1 syst. you have to weld a bung in one of the primary tubes of the hedder?If i have coated hedders i have to destroy the coating in that area?

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

i mean were you put the o2 sensor?

wkdivr

iTrader: (8)

To do it correctly, you must remove the coating in the area to be welded. You don't have to grind it to death, just make it shiny, grind till you see bright sparks with little bright tails on them. I know it sounds kind of hokey, but I've had people "grind" off the coating, and all they really did was shine up the coating. If you grind it lightly (it won't take much) till you see those sparks, you should be ok. Remember also, there might be coating on the inside as well. If you don't clean the inside good (sometimes you just can't reach it) the heat of welding could make the coating "boil" up to the top. You'll just have to be ready for it, and deal with it. Always remember, the cleaner, the better, at ALL times!

slow

iTrader: (7)

Do you really want to put it in a primary tube? I normally weld them to the collector, or the Y pipe right after the factory 02 sensor location.

Ryan

monodax

I agree, I would put it either before or after the stock O2 sensor. Mine is mounted about 3 inches before my stock passenger side O2 sensor. I suppose you could drill into your headers but I personally would not.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

If you do not have rear O2's can you place the widebank O2 in one of these holes?

Bill

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

fastsspr, I'm with you on the concern for welding in a bung for the wideband o2. While researching the widband kits out there I kept thinking surely one of these will convert the wideband info back to the analog voltage needed by the pcm and you could just replace the OE O2 sensor with the wideband unit.
no additional bung needed. Here is a link to a unit that does.

PLX

I'm trying to figure out if it will do all I want before I purchase it. Needs to output for HP tuners. Use an existing bung as mentioned above. The wiring is a bit involved. There are diagrams on the site. I also want to purchase the driver box for my already installed AutoMeter A/F gauge. I'm looking at the cheapest M250 unit without display.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I wasn't in a terrible rush to muck up my header coating either.

I installed mine in the y-pipe at the requested angle, about 3" from the rubber grommet under the driver side seat. I cut a line in the grommet from the outer edge to the center and slipped it over the cable. Both ends of the cable were too large to use an X-cut on the grommet. Then ran the cable under the carpet, and out the opening under the driver seat.

If you don't have catalytic converters, I would think it could go anywhere. If you do, I'd install it before the cat's unless you know how much the AFR changes pre/post cat.

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

So in the instrucctions they never says how far it have to be located from the exhaust port?

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

Most I've read give a minimum distance from the exhaust ports to place them. Think the Plx unit was 24" .Primary concern is temperature. From memory I believe it stated over 850 degrees C will wipe out the 02. I've not seen any reference a maxiumum distance.

txhorns281

iTrader: (12)

How bout running the sensor at the tips like they do on the dyno???? For the LM-1 you can buy a little clamp that will hook onto the tips that way you can move the wideband from car to car with ease....

The question is, will this give us good readings??? I mean, that's how you see it done on the dyno right??? Here's the million dollar question that no one's answered for me yet: (well, i'm sure it's here but I searched for awhile and came up with nothing)

If running no cats, can you run a wideband O2 off the exhaust tips and get good enough readings to tune with???

slow

iTrader: (7)

a tailpipe sniffer is not accurate for part throttle and idle operation.

Ryan

txhorns281

iTrader: (12)

Makes sense... Reads well only at WOT right... probably the only time it'll get hot enough back there for the sensor to pickup...

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

But even @ wot you not going to heat enouth the sensor to have an accurate reading i think?
Is a realy big difference from the end of the hedder to the back of the car!!!

Anybody who had a wide band tested it in both scenarios?

I mean @ the end of the hedder and the back of the car.

CamTom12

iTrader: (1)

Another question along these lines...

Would putting a WB O2 in the I pipe be useful for part-throttle stuff or should I try and figure something else out?

If I go true duals later down the road, would it work to throw the thing in the X?

Or would it be best to check the regular O2s for a while to make sure the banks are even and then just pick the leaner of the two (if there is a consistent one) and put it in that side, slightly more than minimum distance from the exhaust port?

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

I would think that WB02 setup to replace the existing NB02 and providing feedback to the PCM would improve part throttle tuning by the PCM simply because of its improved accuracy

CamTom12

iTrader: (1)

That's kinda my train of thought too, but I can't afford a 2 sensor controller right now...

It's looking like I'll just hold off until I can, though and just mount them in the stock O2 spots

I was talking about for just having the one permanently mounted in one side for tuning only purposes here, though... I was curious how far down the pipe the sensor can be before it doesn't stay warm enough to work at part-throttle

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

can i use 2 oxigen sensors with only one head unit(wide band module)?
So i can read both side of the motor?

Holden LS1 Tonner

I was thinking the same thing about replacing one of my narrow band sensors with the wideband one and using the simulated narrow band output that the tech edge 2ao has(and other wideband set-ups have this) to give the pcm the signal for that bank,i sent an email to the people at tech edge and this is the responce i got.

The NBSim output can be used but it may not have exactly the same response as the standard NB sensor, so the ECM may try to tune one of the banks a bit differently to the other. In all, I'd find an exhaust place that will put in another bung after the two pipes meet.

To stop DTC's from the O/C NB heater, use a 100 ohm 1W resistor - this may draw sufficient current to fool the OBD code. Anything smaller than 100 ohms may get hot and require special consideration.

HTH,

Peter

There are wideband setups with provision for two sensors but if you do want to run two wb 02 sensors at the same time you need a wb 02 setup with provision to do this.


hope this helps

tici

iTrader: (1)

I'm also interested: I had a dyno tune aiming at AF 11:1 because of my blower. Gasses measured at the tips. We got this AF only setting the PE vs RPM at 1.5 - A LOT!
This with 36# Bosch and 58 PSI fuel. See my sing for the HP: not really much for that amount of fuel!

I have to keep my cats and I want to readjust the AF myself. Do I really have to put the WB before the cats? Not so much place between my LT's and cats...

What if you had stock exhaust manifolds? Even worst to put the WB before the cats...

Is it that bad to put it in the Y-pipe, after the cats?