Car quit after a few minutes now cranks no start
01-31-2005, 04:30 PM
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Car quit after a few minutes now cranks no start I just installed Lt's and a catback. I started the car and it ran fine at idle for a few minutes and then just quit. Now the car will crank but will not start.
I recently put a walbro 255 pump in and had run it awhile with no problems. ( prior to the exhaust mods ) I pulled the pump back out and the hose is still connected and the fuel psi at the rail is 55 psi ( I know backwards but the pump was easy access with the panel still removed ) ( Oh and yes there is fuel in the tank )
I hooked up AT and no MIL's and it connects to the computer. I was worried about some rearend welding I did without the computer disconnected.
Could this be a VATS problem? I thought the car would not crank if this was the case. Is there a way to reset the system?
I had the battery disconnected due to the starter being loosened up. But this dam thing ran fine and started fine after it was reconnected. I'm at a loss as of right now. Any ideas?
I recently put a walbro 255 pump in and had run it awhile with no problems. ( prior to the exhaust mods ) I pulled the pump back out and the hose is still connected and the fuel psi at the rail is 55 psi ( I know backwards but the pump was easy access with the panel still removed ) ( Oh and yes there is fuel in the tank )
I hooked up AT and no MIL's and it connects to the computer. I was worried about some rearend welding I did without the computer disconnected.
Could this be a VATS problem? I thought the car would not crank if this was the case. Is there a way to reset the system?
I had the battery disconnected due to the starter being loosened up. But this dam thing ran fine and started fine after it was reconnected. I'm at a loss as of right now. Any ideas?
02-02-2005, 04:27 PM
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[B] Ok here is what caused it. While putting on the headers I let the starter hang there. This is a NO NO. It put pressure on the wiring harness. And guess which wire took the load? The Crank sensor B+ ( 12 Volt ). When I first checked it at the sensor connector I was showing 10 + volts. I assumed ( dont ever assume anything when it comes to electrical problems ) the battery was low from cranking during troubleshooting. Well I charged the battery backup and low and behold now I had no voltage. Out came the ohm meter, while moving the wire I would loose and gain continuity. I took the harness apart and it looked ok. So I pulled on it and guess what, it stretched where the weak point was. Remember it is always good practice to check for voltage drop across a wire. Had I done this right off the bat I could have found it faster. But then that is always the way it goes. If only I had gone to where the problem was first. LOL
One side note: You can not check a sensor by applying voltage, ground and reading the output. I had read somewhere on the internet that it could be done with a ferrous metal acting as the reluctor. I had my doubts, well they were well founded. Use of an Oscope is much better at checking this type of circuit
One side note: You can not check a sensor by applying voltage, ground and reading the output. I had read somewhere on the internet that it could be done with a ferrous metal acting as the reluctor. I had my doubts, well they were well founded. Use of an Oscope is much better at checking this type of circuit
