Magyver

Using hptuners and I'm finding knock retard of 3 and 4 degrees at certain rpms above 3k. Not consistent however. Did a few runs/logs at WOT and got it in the beginining but it went away on other runs. Then I drove home and recorded regular cruising speeds and got some KR of 3 and 4 in the same area of the Histogram Display on Hptuner. I have a 98 ls1 with a T1 cam I installed this past weekend, mac headers and 107xxx miles. Someone said on another site that the 98s have a lot of false KR. Anyone else here this?

Super new to this whole tuning thing. I have all red in my LT FT except for one blue. In my a/f I have a lot of red. 21 blocks of red with numbers as low as 35 up to 100. Two blocks of a lighter shade of red with 109 and 193. Six blocks of pink from 226 to 391.

I did post up asking about something I can read to learn all this. So pardon the ignorance.

luv2spd

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, 98s pick up false knock. You can desensitize them with hptuners after you verify that it's false. As for the ltfts, get them between -4 and 0 and call it good. If you notice that your 02s dip right before you get kr, then you prob. had real kr. Raise this area in the ve table to give it more fuel so it doesn't have those lean spots that are exposed on transient throttle situations.

Magyver

Thanks man. I'm learning. Something to check.


Should my o2s bounce up and down when I'm in the same rpm range cruising? Maybe my o2s are too old and need changing?

luv2spd

iTrader: (1)

Yes! You want them to oscillate while in closed loop. The only time they shouldn't be is in open loop like on startups and while in power enrichment. Its time to change 02s when they stop oscillating at cruise.

Magyver

Ok. Then the 02s are fine. Still don't get the kr. I had some on my way to work while doing a little acceleration. I think I saw some during cruising too. I got on the gas hard and didn't see any at times and some times I did. Confused. I must have some false KR but I need to get my a/f and lt ft fixed first before I can make that assumption correct?

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

I got a similar problem, but it was really bad, now it's much better, these are things I've done to fix it.
1. Calibrate your MAF first. You have no idea how much closer to 'good' VE you'll be after that. The smallest things (as far as the intake path is concerned) will affect it greatly. I calibrated it for a friend of mine who just polished his TB, and most of VE was 10-15 points lean, and now it's all better.
2. Get your VE in line, it's really easy now with HPT 1.6. Don't forget to reset your fuel trims after every change in VE table.
If you need help with any of this, let me know, AIM is the best (check the profile)

Magyver

I will start working on this evening. I have a lot to learn still. Acroynms are the first. I don't know what VE is? I haven't found anything great to read up on.

luv2spd

iTrader: (1)

Go to the hptuners site and read up on the forum. There is a great thread there about how to tune ve both with and without a wideband. VE is volumetric efficiency. This is how the car calculates airflow in sd mode although its still used with the maf plugged in as well. Tuning it helps drivability the most, especially after a cam. You'll notice that your ltft and stft in the histogram correspond directly with the ve table in the editor. This makes it easy to copy and paste to get the correct values in the ve table.

Magyver

Thanks!! I've been reading everywhere and I'm starting to pick up.