99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Alright heres the breakdown:

A4
Magic Stick Cam (237/242)
TCI 3500 stall
LS6 intake
Kooks headers


Heres what I have tried so far

Desired Idle Speed (1100-1000-950)
main VE
400 rpm x 60
800 rpm x 85
1200 rpm x 90

IAC park
40C and up to 21

Increased timing 2 deg from 0-1000 rpms to 0.38 g/cyl

Also I am getting a engine misfire code. What should I do about that?

Car does not start or idle, I have to give it gas to get it to start and continue to give it gas to keep it running.

Any help is greatly appreciated/

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/177230-stop-drilling-those-tbs-fix-stalling-without-computer-tuning.html

The above got my car to idle after the cam install. Your misfire table will have to be increased to getting the codes. I increased mine after the TC install.
I am still getting my car tuned. It does idle but get surging and/or cruise control effect. I am still playing with the IAC.
Good luck.
Bill

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

alright, I do not have a torx that will be able to get at the set screw so I will have to wait until tomorrow to buy some of those(i tried alan although it didnt work)

I placed something under the blade so it would show 3% throttle and then started the car. It still will not stay running and when I give it a little gas it surges from 400-1400 and dies if I take my foot off the gas.

Any more ideas?

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Go look at my tune that I just uploaded onto Horist's site today. (should be there tomorrow) Basically you need to raise the Target Idle speed, raise the timing in ALL tables for the 400-1200 rpm cells, INCLUDING the Base Park & Drive tables, and crack open the air at idle (either drill the TB or raise the idle screw up.....tho I found the TB method can cause your car to push along when you lift off the gas) I raised my timing to 24-28* in all tables at idle. And set your misfire tables to 32567 (I think that's the right #) Hope that thelps.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I will try this when I get home today.

Anyone have anything to add to this that might help me get going?

lotsaLS1

have you drilled the hole bigger on the butterfly?

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

From what I have read, I do not think that I should have to drill a bigger hole in my throttle body.

lotsaLS1

if there isnt enough air it will not idle --you figure by adding a bigger cam the valves open more --so i would assume it would use more air at idle --that hole gm drills in there is there for that reason "but that is for a puiney stock cam"
the first thing speed inc. did was drill my tb hole bigger --it also will eliminate surgeing at idle, it surges because it isnt getting enough air to keep a constant idle so it uses what is at hand and when it uses that up the idle drops then it plays catch up then the idle rises . I'm tellin ya this will cure your issue .the hole in my 99 tb is 3-4 times bigger than stock --i sure there are plenty of other guys on here that will agree and may know the exact size to drill --thats a big cam -bigger than mine and mine is 575/585@113

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Well, It starts right up and idles by itself . I cranked down the VE 50%, 65%, 80% and also did the set screw mod to 4% throttle then reset it to zero by unplugging it. Starts great now. Anyone see any problems that might come from these changes? THANKS ALL

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I think you should be fine. Drilling the TB does pretty much what cranking the idle screw does. It lets in more air so it will idle. Except my car doesn't "run on" when I let off the gas now with the screw turned up like it did with a bigger hole in the blade.

lotsaLS1

hmm i never had that problem

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

Mine runs on a little and I can not seem to get rid of it by changing the IAC numbers. What size drill do you think I should use?

Bill

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure you should drill the hole out Bill. I used to think you had to. But now with HP Tuner I'm thinkin you don't. Like I said, turning up the idle screw, increasing the timing in the 400-1200 cells, and incresing the target idle speeds seems to work. A friend just set his cranking VE cells lower & it helped relieve the initial surge & stumble on start up. I think it's all about tuning.

And I drilled mine to the largest recommended size before it would idle (7/32?) & now it's back to a stock blade (IAC = 54?).

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Alright heres where I am at:

- Increased my Set Screw to 4% TPS and reset it to 0.
- Changed a few other parameters

Car starts up right away and finds idle with no surging (still havent driven car yet).

- My TPS voltage at idle is 0.7
- NOW THIS: I looked at my IAC position while it was warming up and it never got any lower than 140-160. I thought it should lower by rasing the set screw. I thought it should be around 40-60 for cammed cars.

How can I lower it. Car seems to idle fine (other than shaking like a mo fo)

Any ideas why these values are so extremely high?

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

Is your AC/Heat turned off? If not that will effect the counts.

WS6snake-eater

Also make sure you are in Park/Nuetral, if it's an auto, or have the clutch pushed in if it is a stick.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Nothing is turned on accesories wise. Will these high IAC values affect anything if I drive it like this?