my results using MAF excel sheets...
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my results using MAF excel sheets...
There have been some questions as to if the MAF excel spreadsheets work or not so I thought I would share my results. I used this method twice with success(in my opinion), stock internals a month ago and in the last 2 weeks after the cam went in.
First I tuned the VE table using the Openloop, wideband, copy/paste-multiple by half % method till the AF error % was +1 to -4.
Re-enabled close loop, pe and so on. I used the STFTs to do the final adjustment on the VE table. At this point LTFTs were between 0 and -3 in SD mode.
After a 30 minute drive I used BLACK02SS excel sheet to calculate my MAF table. I noticed at 8500 MAF air flow Hz and up the numbers jump around. So I used the Monaro table from 8500 and up with some minor adjustments.
Here is the ltft table after an hour of driving.
First I tuned the VE table using the Openloop, wideband, copy/paste-multiple by half % method till the AF error % was +1 to -4.
Re-enabled close loop, pe and so on. I used the STFTs to do the final adjustment on the VE table. At this point LTFTs were between 0 and -3 in SD mode.
After a 30 minute drive I used BLACK02SS excel sheet to calculate my MAF table. I noticed at 8500 MAF air flow Hz and up the numbers jump around. So I used the Monaro table from 8500 and up with some minor adjustments.
Here is the ltft table after an hour of driving.
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yup, it works
what i do for the ranges that i cannot get empirical data for is i make a best fit line based on my new calibration points, and use it to determine the other calibration points. probably it's just an academic point, but i didn't wanna have any sudden dropoffs/spikes if i suddenly did get to a range for which i have not gathered data.
what i do for the ranges that i cannot get empirical data for is i make a best fit line based on my new calibration points, and use it to determine the other calibration points. probably it's just an academic point, but i didn't wanna have any sudden dropoffs/spikes if i suddenly did get to a range for which i have not gathered data.
#7
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as long as you got SD mode going, you should be able to get enough data for it in 15-20mins if you're ballzy enough on the highway.
if you want to, send me your data, and i'll take a look at it.
remember that once you calibrate you MAF, your VE might have to be retuned too, as the final fueling depends on both. so if you just had a VE tune before with stock (aka wrong) calibration, then if you fix your MAF, your VE is going to be all over the place.
if you want to, send me your data, and i'll take a look at it.
remember that once you calibrate you MAF, your VE might have to be retuned too, as the final fueling depends on both. so if you just had a VE tune before with stock (aka wrong) calibration, then if you fix your MAF, your VE is going to be all over the place.
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I've read your MAF tuning page a couple times RHS, very informative page.
I'm curious though, how do you identify the VE as being out of wack vs the MAF tables? I thought the Ltrms were the only way to identify whether it was tuned well or not, and if you put it in SD mode, your MAF isn't putting any data in there at all.
Hope that made sense.
I'm curious though, how do you identify the VE as being out of wack vs the MAF tables? I thought the Ltrms were the only way to identify whether it was tuned well or not, and if you put it in SD mode, your MAF isn't putting any data in there at all.
Hope that made sense.
#9
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with MAF it's simple to know: if your new MAF calibration is very close to your old MAF calibration, that means it was what it supposed to be
with VE it depends on MAF: if MAF didn't change much, then you just do the traditional VE tune and you're good to go. if MAF is all kinds of different, then you wanna do VE tune AFTER you put the MAF calibration, but still in SD. i usually redo VE 2-3 times to get it dead on in different conditions. handsmoothing also helps.
with VE it depends on MAF: if MAF didn't change much, then you just do the traditional VE tune and you're good to go. if MAF is all kinds of different, then you wanna do VE tune AFTER you put the MAF calibration, but still in SD. i usually redo VE 2-3 times to get it dead on in different conditions. handsmoothing also helps.
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Not trying to steal the thread but I did my second attempt using this Maf Calculator (1st attempt I did it wrong). So technically this is my first correct attempt. I think its a good start since this is a monster cam.
Also, since I re-enabled the MAF all my tranny problems went away and 80% of the bucking went away. All I can say is
This is where Im going now
I dont know how to post on here so here is a link.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/363571
Also, since I re-enabled the MAF all my tranny problems went away and 80% of the bucking went away. All I can say is
This is where Im going now
I dont know how to post on here so here is a link.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/363571
#12
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well, it seems like a good first try -2 to 3 all over
if you want to see real mad scientists take it apart, here you go:
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=16&t=4301&
if you want to see real mad scientists take it apart, here you go:
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=16&t=4301&