HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

Tell me if I got this right please.....

I will wire the RED wire on both the LC-1 & HPT Enhanced Input Output to switched power(powered when the car is turned on)

LC-1 BLUE wire(heater ground) gets grounded to the car

LC-1 METALLIC wire(system ground) hooks up to the Enhanced Input Output thing BLACK wire? Now does that BLACK wire on the Enhanced Input Output thing get ground to the car or just hook up the LC-1?

LC-1 YELLOW wire(analog out 1) hooked to the Enhanced Input Output a/d input 1,2,3,4?

The LC-1 BROWN(analog out 2) left alone and the LC-1 black wire(calibration) does that get grounded or is that left alone to?

nick y

iTrader: (1)

NO HOOKIE ANALOG ONE TO EIO!!! thats narrow band it wont work real well now you can use the the analog 1 but you will need to scale it porperly so why bother.
brown wire is the wide band and that the one you wont.
metal wire to black and doesnt need to be ground to car

horist

^^^ so the LC1 has analog 2 set to 0-5 volts by default?

The LC1 has a serial config right? (you can change the output ranges via software?)

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

Thanks I will have to fix it then. What about the LC-1 black wire(calibration) Does that need to be ground to? It says optional.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

The way the instructions read (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf ), it sounds like the optional black ground initiates a recalibration for the O2 sensor. That's why they suggest a push button for more permanent setups. The push button keeps the wire attached to ground, but the connection is not complete until you push the button.

Racehead

I hooked the red wires on both the LC-1 and the enhanced I/O to a switched 12v source and smoked my HP tuner box I guess I should have read the instructions instead of this thread huh ?!

Super Sport X2

Don't do that. Our red wire is a 5v supply for an external sensor (like map or other automotive sensor that runs on 5V).

Please use this as your guide:

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/YaBB.p...2899;start=1#1



Regards,
Ken

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

So what s wrong? Now I am really confused? This is why I was asking in the first place.

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

So I don't even hook up the red wire of the EIO?

Super Sport X2

Their red wire and our red wire are two different things.

Thiers is +12v in to run the LC-1.

Our Red wire is +5v output to power external sensors (like an addtional map, tps, etc). Are you running something that needs +5v?


This is in the help files guys. Complete with pictures and descriptions of what each wire is for. Hit the F1 key and look at "Connecting to the vehicle".

qsgto

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to hook up the black (calibration wire) or the led. If you want to, take one wire (don't matte which one) from the led and one wire from the switch and connect to the calibration wire. Take the other end of each and hook it up to the ground. Make sure that you do not have the green wire on the LC-1. I have it on mine, and I had to wire things up a little differently, otherwise the unit was giving me errors. I didn't notice the green wire as the directions that came with the unit said it wasn't there.

Your original post has the correct wiring except, use brown (analog 2 wire) to connect to hpt, and use red wire 12v+ to a ignition power source source (when the key is turned, the power to that wire goes on). And don't forget to make sure you use the correct PID in hp tuners for the input you are using the lc-1 on.

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

Mine does have the green wire and my directions don't show it either.

So heres what I am going to do.
Disconnect the red wire from the EIO because its for a addtional sensor.

change the yellow wire to the brown because thats for a wide band.

hook up the green to the black wire on the EIO..

And I can just leave the LC-1 black wire left unhooked. But does that mean the o2 won't ever recalibrate with out that black wire hooked up?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

You can tape off the end with electrical tape and connect it to ground briefly when you want to calibrate.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

Thats what I was thinking.

Thanks.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Just for grins, what did you do with the green wire (the latest LC-1 version)? I just wired it to the EIO ground, but I can't seem to get my laptop to recognize the LC-1 when I plug it in through the serial port. Wonder if I should ground it elsewhere?

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

Mine is not hooked up yet. The directions say to ground it to the EIO black wire.

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

OK heres what i did. I disconnected the red wire on the EIO, I changed the yellow to brown wire, and I grounded the green to the EIO black alone with the METALLIC wire.

bmfcamaro

iTrader: (1)

do not ground the green to the eio. ground it to the car. and run a dual ground for the bare wire one to tuners and one to car. oh yeah verify your results with a known wideband.

LC-1:
red ==== 12v supply-Connected to 12V source
blue ==== heater ground- Connected to solid ground
metallic ==== system ground-Connected to EIO Black and chassis
yellow ==== analog out 1- NOT USED
brown ==== analog out 2- Connected to EIO White
black ==== calibration wire- Connected to LED and Pushbutton

EIO:

White === Connected to LC-1 Brown
Purple === NOT CONNECTED
Blue === NOT CONNECTED
Green === NOT CONNECTED
Black === Connected to LC-1 metallic
Red === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHINg
Yellow === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING
Orange === NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING