bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

OK guys, I have a problem that I cannot figure out. I hooked up my LC-1 finally in my 2000 WS6 over the weekend. I simply took the driver side stock O2 out and put the wideband in as a temporary thing so I could tune it. Well, that part went fine. Calibrated the LC-1 and fired her up. Low and behold my idle AFR is 10.3:1 according to the widband . At first I thought maybe its running in open loop, but that is too rich even for that. I took it out for a drive to warm it up and check some other things. Now, driving around the AFR is unchanged! Still runs about 10.3:1, and it never got any better than 10.5:1 until I went WOT. At WOT it ran 12.0:1 AFR. It appears (to me anyway) that my stock O2 is switching really slow, but it has not triggered a SES light.

Now the only tuning I have done on my car was CAGS!, deleted EGR timing advance, lowered fan temps, and added 2 degrees of timing in the hight octane table. Just for the hell of it I loaded the "stock" program back into it and it didn't change a thing. I say "stock" because the previous owner had it tuned, but he swore he put the stock one back in it. Also, just to be sure I forced the car into closed loop with HPtuners and the AFR still didn't change.

I also compared my .bin file to my bud's 2001 SS to see if there were any obvious problems. Didn't find anything there either.

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Thanks, Pete.

Blackbird

did you take out a front o2?

that will hose the way the car runs pretty good.

leave the fronts in and pull a rear and put your wb there.

it needs the fronts to run correctly except at wot. and hmmmmm car runs wrong except at wot

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Like he said if you pull a front o2 sensor you'll be in open loop and run rich. If you didn't, try logging desired a/f ratio and see if that's what the computer's really asking for. Also, are you sure you're using the right calibration for the lc1?

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

OK, yes I did remove a front O2. I read a couple threads that said that was OK to do as long as you didn't remove both front O2 sensors. Is that not right??

Also, how do you find out the commanded AFR for non-WOT? Should'nt it be 14.7:1 ?

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

14.63 should be commanded

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

you sure you got your WB configuration right? can you verify how rich/lean it runs other than your WB?

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

are u tuning in open loop with the f/a table? or is it suppose to go in closed loop, if its going into closed loop and you took the o2 out then thats the problem or should be, like blackbird said

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

And I calibrated the LC-1 in free air just as the directions said.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I had intended to tune the car, but all I was doing this weekend was scanning.

The car should have been running in closed loop the whole time, unless my removing the O2 sensor kept it from doin so.

RedHardSupra, good question. I was trying to think of a way to verify my WB was accurate, but couldn't figure out how. Anyone know how?

What I do know is that several people have said my car runs rich while they were cruising behind me (this was with both front O2 sensors in and working). Also, my tail pipes seem to soot up faster than most of my bud's LS1 cars. Seems to me my car does indeed run to rich most of the time.

Thanks.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

you can actually go and edit it and delete it yourself.

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

give me the numbers that the manual for LC-1 gives you for calibration ('custom formula' settings) and i'll give you an equation, and we'll see if it works.

the best way to calibrate it, would be to verify if narrowband and wideband can get the 14.62 point right together. it's the only point that narrowband can give you with any authority, so it's not much, but if you see it perfect on NB, but WB gives you 10.0 or something, then you know it's off.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

When hooking up my LC-1 in HPtuners I used the LM-1 settings (it was one of the choices already in HPtuners). Is that OK, or should I have setup the LC-1 as its own calibration?

Maybe that ties in with your question RedHardSupra

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

LC-1 calibration is NOT the same as LM-1, so there's your problem

Bink

Bowtieman81- What cam are you running??

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Thanks RedHard, guess I shouldn't believe everything I am told

By the way, what does your name mean, or do I want to know.

Bink, I have the stock 2000 cam. I have not installed my cam/heads yet because I wanted to learn to tune halfway decent first (good thing I did it that way).

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

Red Hardtop Supra, a pride and joy of mine, very rare toy, that's all. I should probably have something else on this board, but I kept it for consitency from supra boards.

GOOD thinking about getting your stuff set up proper _before_ making any significant changes. It's much easier to learn to improve things, not actually rescue it from stalling or something.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

OK guys, I finally got the LC-1 working. I was an idiot. I did not read ALL the instructions on the LC-1 . It has 2 analog outputs, one is for wideband use, the other is for simulating a narrowband sensor. Guess which one I had hooked up. Well, switched to the wideband output and bam, works just like it should. I am now ready to devote a day to tuning. Thanks.