The Knightrider

I got the P1153 code about 2 weeks ago. When I had it scanned bank 2, O2 sensor 1 was not switching.

I then replaced the sensor and now 2 weeks later it threw the same code.

What could this be? How can you just clear it out for good without black electrical tape?

I also tried reseting it by pulling the pcm bat and ing fuses and left them out for about 30 seconds and it did not clear it.

The motor was rebuilt and pulled from the bottom and the black plastic under the car was left off could this be cooling my O2 down too much?

The Knightrider

ttttt

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I assume you have headers. Most of us with headers get the 1153. I replaced my O2's with Bosch 13111's (rear vette O2's) and my code went away. That was 7 months ago.

Good luck.
Bill

The Knightrider

That is the strange thing... I do not have headers when I got the code I replaced the O2 with a new OEM sensor and it was gone for a couple of weeks and now the same code again.

5 years and no problem. I just started getting it when I spun (2) rod bearings and after I rebuilt the motor

The Knightrider

What do you have to do or how hard would it be to delete the code so it would never come back. Also, I have stock manafolds but what causes people with headers to have this problem and why do rear vette O2's fix it in some cases?

The Knightrider

anyone?

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Rear Vette O2's have a higher wattage heater. If you are throwing codes for the primary O2's you want to get that fixed. When the codes come in, it puts you into a rich tune.

The Knightrider

I reset the pcm by pulling fuses and was code free for (3) days and then the evil light came back on with the same code.

Does anyone with stock manafolds ever get this code? I know that the O2 is good cause I just replaced it.

Where should I start?

Is it bad to keep resetting the pcm by pulling fuses?

Can you reprogram to tell the pcm not to set off the light for this?

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

I don't have stock manifolds, so my code was from the obvious...however to answer your question, you'll need someone or yourself to use one of the editing softwares to go in and tell the PCM to ignore the code. That's what I did. HPT>EDIT>Engine Diagnostics>DTC'S>pick your code and click 3-No Error Reported. Expensive little task if all you care about is turning off the code though.

FILE

iTrader: (5)

You all who have had this code, have you noticed any loss in power or less fuel effeciency?

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

When I got the 1153 code IMO my car did not run as good until I cleared the code. I do not remember any gas problems but my car does not get good gas mileage anyway.

Bill

The Knightrider

Could Bosch 13111's (rear vette o2's) correct this problem even with stock manafolds?

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

when that code comes in, the PCM falls into open loop. the stock OL table is a safe rich tune to keep you from blowing the motor. So, to answer the question, yes and yes.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

it's quite possible. if you put a 13111 in, and the code comes back, you may consider spending the money on the EFILive scanner so you can find and correct the problem.

The Knightrider

If it does not fix it and I decide to reprogram the pcm to ignore the code would the pcm still be in a open loop? If so how bad would it be to stay in open loop?

The Knightrider

Anyone?

twort

iTrader: (2)

I to am throwing this code. p1133 so put in new sensor and now am getting p1153. am also on stock manfolds. did you find anything out or anyone else have and suggestions. do the o2's typically go out in pairs?

armyadarkness

Hey Tim,

I don't know how old your sensors are or what mods you have done, so you can assume that every cars situation and solution will vary a bit.

Here's the short version of my case:

After 6 or 7 new sensors (including the corvette ones that "supposedly" solve the problem but didn't), 2 different cat configurations, a new exhaust, 2 different mufflers, 2 different tail pipes and tips, exhaust heat wrap tape, new bosch platinum plugs with 9mm MSD wires, a custom pcv filter and oil catch can, three cans of the best throttle body cleaner available, countless cleanings of my K&N air filter, who knows how many bottles of fuel injector cleaner, I rebuilt the exhaust several times checking for leaks, cleaned the Mass Air Sensor several times, tried 2 different air boxes and tubing, and checked every wire several times. After a more then a year, countless hours of labor, and well over a thousand dollars, THE LIGHT NEVER WENT OFF!

I refused to just "turn off" or "delete" the codes because I knew my ECM would stay in open loop mode if I did, and as a result, mileage and performance would greatly suffer.

An open-loop controller does not use feedback to control states or outputs of a dynamic system. Open-loop control is used for systems that are sufficiently well characterized to predict what inputs are necessary to achieve the desired states or outputs.

In open loop mode, your engine runs off the factory program and NOT your specific conditions. Since the factory program is designed to run a STOCK LS1, you would not receive any benefits from performance mods (or the benefits would be drastically reduced).

The factory programs their vehicles to run on the lean side for emissions reasons, but the general "Hot Rod" opinion is that more fuel is more power (there's way more to it then that, but that's another story).

For example, the optimum air fuel ratio is 14:1 (14 parts of air to 1 part fuel). The factory knows that to achieve this, the fuel injectors must run at "X" amount of pressure for "X" amount of time. That is what they will program your ECM to deliver in open loop mode (not reading off the sensors).

Now lets say that you install a K&N air filter which will flow 30% more air then the stock filter. In open loop mode, your ECM will still deliver the same amount of fuel to the injectors as it would for the stock filter. Since this would "lean" out your engine's mixture, you'd get better mileage because you'd be getting a lot more air but the "stock" amount of fuel. Relatively speaking, you would have just leaned out something that was already running lean and therefore performance would suffer greatly (assuming you believe more fuel is more power).

Now lets say you perform the same modification above, only this time you have a fully operational set of engine sensors ( Primarily the Oxygen Sensor). As you drive your car, the oxygen sensor reads how much un- used fuel is in your exhaust, and it reports this information to the ECM. Since you'd be running very lean, the sensors would tell the ECM that the fuel ratio was no longer 14:1 and that injectors needed a lot more fuel to correct the problem. The ECM would then increase the amount of fuel being fed to the engine in order to re- achieve 14:1. Now you'd have the optimum air fuel mixture WITH the benefits of increased flow. As a result, you just increased efficiency, and that's how you make horsepower.

This is why I wont just delete or turn off the codes!

The 1153 and 1154 engine code mean insufficient heat to the front oxygen sensors. LS1 sensors have a heater in them because they will NOT work unless they're hot. If they don't get hot enough, the car stays in open loop mode. Any increase in exhaust flow (bigger pipes, headers, mufflers) will greatly reduce your exhaust temperature, as a result the sensors don't stay hot enough to remain on (at least that's what happens to those of us who suffer from this issue).

Please remember that this whole scenario is the general idea of the situation. Hot Rodders have been arguing torq against rpm and Ford against Chevy since the dawn of time. I say this because I'm sure many people who read this will want to cry and whine about the contents. Well, they're welcome to. This isn't a Hot Rodders perspective, it's a scientists perspective. I wrote this to help an unfortunate fellow LS1 enthusiast because I give a **** and I miss the old days when people helped each other, not because I have nothing better to do then argue about spelling or grammer. If you disagree with my logic, I respect it, but I don't want to hear about it.

Email me and I'll tell you how the light finally went off! I can't post it because I'm also superstitious!

twort

iTrader: (2)

my light went out on the way home from work. Any suggestions?

armyadarkness

Tim,
Check out this forum.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...60#post3945460

If you have any more questions, please post them there. I am not opposed to you emailing me directly, but if the content will benefit others, they should have easy access to it.

The most aggrevating part of my problem was the countless hours I spent searching the web for a solution.

I'll talk to you soon.