MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

All my mods in the signature....

After a month of rescheduling, I finally had my car dyno tuned today. It was sorta funny, they almost had to reschedule again because their computer went out, but I told them I'll bring one of mine. So once I hooked my PC up to their dyno and loaded the software, we were good to go.

Now, after the tune, I took it for a longer ride. My car used to idle at 900 rpm when it was bone stock, and it maintained that idle after the headers and LS6 intake were put on and after the first tune without the cam. When it was tuned today, I told the guy to lower the idle to like 800 to make it sound better, not only that, I have seen most cars idle at around 800, mine's just been high for whatever reason.

So about 4 miles into my ride, I enjoyed the big time improved low end torque and great throttle response, when all of a sudden the SES light came back on. It's been off and on ever since the cam was put in with the usual random misfire code P0300 I think it was. But I thought that the tuning would take care of this. The only other codes my car has ever thrown were O2 sensor codes. Since it was late at night I had no time to scan it to see what code it just threw. Anyhow, I come to a redlight and the car surges at idle......800 then 900, up and down. Due to me having a ASP pulley you can even see the headlights dim and the Amp meter go back and forth.

It never surged like that before until it was tuned today. What would cause that? It only does it when the car is warmed up already. When it's still in the warm up stages, it idles at around 800 just fine...but as soon as it is at full temperature it does the surging. Is it running to lean? After 8 dyno runs, the guy told me that the A/F was spot on between 12.9 and 13.0

Any ideas?

Manny

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

I have tuned 4-5 cars with that cam and that's a easy one to tune!

Set your idle to 825-850

Did you drill the TB blade 2 drill bit sizes bigger?

Has your VE table been reduced in the first 3 columns? (65, 75, 85)

Did you adust the IAC table? If stock values, add 10% to whole table

Are the Misfire low idle tables set to 32000?

Michael02hawk

iTrader: (26)

...with a new cam, arent you supposed to run a crank re-learn?

otherwise, you'll get false misfires.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Uhm....I am totally clueless about the stuff you just asked me. The car was tuned by a local tuner.

I never had idle problems before. Even just after I had the cam installed, once the computer got the idea that there's a new cam in there, it idled rock steady at 900 rpm.

I still don't know what codes it's throwing right now, but I'll find out tonight.

I am just wondering why lowering the idle makes the car surge like that only after it is warmed up. It's fine when it's cold.

You're talking to a person that knows absolutely nothing about tuning a car with a computer.

You would think they would fix this without charging me again, right?

Manny

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

go get your money back and go buy some software, you seem to have fallen into the typical 'well, the car kinda idles and the AFR is ok, so it is tuned' bullshit that they can do in 15 mins and charge you a lot of money for it...
i can tell you exactly what you need to do, but if you don't have software and don't know what Billiumss said, it won't help you much.
try to find someone with software for your car, then we'll talk

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it did not take him very long to tune it.

The car was initially tuned when the headers and LS6 intake were put on. Basically, it seems to me that all he does is **** with the AFR until it's at 12.9 and then just runs it until the numbers drop, backs it off until it's back to what it was, and that's it. I would say that the whole tuning procedure took about 20 mins, and most of that time was spend waiting to upload what he changed.

I really don't feel confident enough in trying to monkey with the settings even if I did have a laptop and tuning software. For now, I'll have the SES code read and I'll call them back on Monday to see what can be done about it. If they are going to give me the run around, I might consider a mail order tune from Thunder Racing, since I have a Thunder racing cam. If they know all my modifications, they should be able to come pretty close I am guessing?

Thanks!

Manny

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

not even close, my mail tune (reputable sponsor, very mild mods on a car) didn't even come close, the car actually LOST 4mph on the mail tune!!! the good part is that it pissed me off enough that i got into tuning myself, which has been a lot of fun

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Mind if I drop by your house one day?

What software are you using, and what did it cost you? Also....the only way to see any improvements is by taking it to the track, right?

Manny

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

sure, drop by, i'm in illinois for another 2 weeks, then i'm in california, so it's right on your way home

the track is not the best way of testing improvments, as you have a lot of variables, launch technique, shifting technique, etc, so what you end up testing is yourself. what i do, is measure a pull from 40-100mph, as that avoids wheelspin, and the air resistance isn't too crazy yet. most cars (unless you got insanely short gears or something) can do it in one gear, so then you can compare times. i measure the times with gtech comp and by looking at logs with HPTuners. it's quite consistent actually to do it this way.
doing nothing else but timing it with HPT and tuning with a wideband, i managed to cut down 1.4secs of the 40-100mph run in my friend's TR224 cam. i'd say that's pretty good, especially that the dude is 2500miles away, and i did all the tuning over email. took us forever, but it's doable.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Yeah...see that's too hardcore for me...lol.

I want it tuned on a dyno...I'd love to take it to Thunder Racing and just let them do what needs to be done to get it right.

What would cause the surging.....without knowing what the SES code is....any ideas?

ldickson

iTrader: (9)

The same thing happen to me with that same cam. The idle was good before the dyno tune after tune it started surging. I now have HPtuner and learning how to tune it my self. the more I learn the better it idles. if your interested I have my Auto Tab for sale so you can check you see light.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I had the car scanned and this is what came up for error codes:

Set DTCs (codes)

History DTC P1153
HO2S Bank2 Sen1
Insufficient Switching
MIL Requested
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

I had my issues with my headers and O2 sensors. Did all sorts of swapping around until the rear ones were deleted when the car was tuned, and the front ones were replaced by Corvette rear O2 sensors (Bosch 13111). The Bosch sensors did good until one day the passenger side one came up with this code...1153. I had it cleared and a few days later it came back. This time I swapped the passenger side with the driver side sensor, and after doing that had the codes read (both of them threw a code, 1133 and 1153), and then had both cleared again. After that the 1153 came back one more time, but disappeared on its own...and nothing has come up so far until now.

So is this just a history code, or is one O2 sensor really malfunctioning again?

Man, I am getting so damn tired of this...sometimes I wish I had never stopped modding this thing.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Ok....the surging stopped all by itself. The SES light went away as well.

What gives?

Do you have to drive the car around for a while until it knows what to do with the tune?