Any bad things about running 160* degree t-stat?
10-14-2005, 03:37 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Purrvert
Check out the very end of this Tech tip.
http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...20PAGE%20.HTML
http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...20PAGE%20.HTML
10-14-2005, 04:46 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Although I have nothing to back up my opinion on this topic, 180 is as low as I would run the coolant temps.
I like some good heat in the winter other than that as long as you dont go longer than 3k on oil changes it will be fine.
10-14-2005, 07:13 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by bowtieman81
Very interesting article TAquickness.
Personally, I keep my coolant temps at 190. On hot *** days with the AC full blast, it gets up to 192.
If you are looking to dominate the track or dyno, 160 would have some benefit. Keep in mind too that track cars are generally set up to last the duration of a race or 2 and dyno queens are just that.
Just a gut feeling, but I would bet an ice cold tall boy that the guys running at 160* (not just the stat, but ECT = 160) on a street motor are shorting the life of the motor.
10-14-2005, 08:15 PM
#26
Originally Posted by SmokingWS6
Tuning wise it won't help performance unless you lower the cooling fan on/off temp settings. It will not affect closed loop, our cars enter at 147*
At IATs of 14* and warner, closed loop enable coolant temp = 92*
10-15-2005, 07:55 PM
#30
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Whats a Thermostat. My stocker died on the road to Vegas bout a year ago - And none of the parts places had an LS1 thermo so I did the rest of the trip without one, Held Temps of about 170º-195º on a mild evening drive depending on the uphills. Never put in a new one back in. Car takes only a few seconds to heat up to 160 and usually stays at about 180º around town.
Why does everyone use * instead of º. =)
Why does everyone use * instead of º. =)
10-15-2005, 09:04 PM
#31
uhm your gonna wanna put one in there soon...learned that your cooloing system needs to have some pressure, that why that stat there, forgot all the little details but they were talking about the stats on either Horse Power TV or on Trucks Tv....but the bottom line was you needed one
10-17-2005, 09:40 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by sycotic_reject
uhm your gonna wanna put one in there soon...learned that your cooloing system needs to have some pressure, that why that stat there, forgot all the little details but they were talking about the stats on either Horse Power TV or on Trucks Tv....but the bottom line was you needed one
I've ran my taurus without one for years.. Picked it up from the junk yard for 500 bones replaced the head gasket and ran it till it died 3 years later.
10-18-2005, 07:41 AM
#34
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Not necessarily true. A thermostat does more than control temps, it also pressurizes the system and slows down coolant flow by being a restriction. Pressurizing the system raised the booling point of the coolant by a significant amount. Also, you need to have the coolant flowing slow enough to get good heat transfer, both from engine to coolant and coolant to air (via radiator).
If you are successful at running with no thermostat good for you. I would not really recommend it, and would not do it myself.
If you are successful at running with no thermostat good for you. I would not really recommend it, and would not do it myself.
10-18-2005, 04:54 PM
#35
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I thought that the rad. cap pressurized the system.
As for flowing slow to cool: the rate of cooling is proportional to the temp. difference which suggests fast flowing cools more.
Edit: On one of my cars, running without TS ran too cool to enter closed loop.
As for flowing slow to cool: the rate of cooling is proportional to the temp. difference which suggests fast flowing cools more.
Edit: On one of my cars, running without TS ran too cool to enter closed loop.
Last edited by joecar; 10-18-2005 at 05:08 PM.
10-19-2005, 10:12 AM
#36
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t-stat has 3 functions. 1. Get the motor up to temp as fast as possiable(takes a longer time to heat up if there isnt a thermostat since the motor is flowing all the water in the system instead of just whats in the block). 2. It serves as a controll valve to keep the motor from going under the preset temp(180* t-stat wont let the motor go under 180* we all knew that right lol) 3. It serves as a restriction to slow the flow of water that enters the radiator allowing the maximum time needed for heat transfer to the fins of the radiator.
As for a car running too cool with out a t-stat there are several factors for this. 1. the climate in which you live in maybe cool enough to where the system functions extreamly well enough to keep the motor cool. 2. The cooling system is larger than what the engine really needs meaning no matter what there is so much water/good radiator that the motor cant heat it up enough to get up to temp. This has nothing to due with a fast flow through the radiator, it just tells you that you have a robust cooling system in place to handle a fast flow through the radiator. If the radiator was smaller or there was less fluid capacity in the system you would run hotter without a t-stat than with one.
As for a car running too cool with out a t-stat there are several factors for this. 1. the climate in which you live in maybe cool enough to where the system functions extreamly well enough to keep the motor cool. 2. The cooling system is larger than what the engine really needs meaning no matter what there is so much water/good radiator that the motor cant heat it up enough to get up to temp. This has nothing to due with a fast flow through the radiator, it just tells you that you have a robust cooling system in place to handle a fast flow through the radiator. If the radiator was smaller or there was less fluid capacity in the system you would run hotter without a t-stat than with one.
10-19-2005, 01:56 PM
#37
TECH Senior Member
Good points, however I only partly agree with you.
I live in So. Cal. and car runs too cold without TS using standard factory radiator, even in 100° heat driving thru Mojave Desert.
When TS is open (coolant is hot), flow is max. and radiator is still able to cool coolant sufficiently to close TS (provided there is air flow thru radiator).
Coolant path thru radiator is sufficiently long so coolant will have sufficient time to loose heat even at max. flow.
Under steady state conditions, TS will be partly opened allowing a controlled flow rate and a steady temp;
if engine load increases, coolant in block gets hotter, TS opens more, flow rate increases, and a steady higher temp is maintained until engine load decreases back to steady state.
NASCAR run restrictor plates (different sized hole for different running temps for each track) in place of TS to keep the temp up otherwise would get too cold (200MPH -> good airflow thru radiator).
I live in So. Cal. and car runs too cold without TS using standard factory radiator, even in 100° heat driving thru Mojave Desert.
When TS is open (coolant is hot), flow is max. and radiator is still able to cool coolant sufficiently to close TS (provided there is air flow thru radiator).
Coolant path thru radiator is sufficiently long so coolant will have sufficient time to loose heat even at max. flow.
Under steady state conditions, TS will be partly opened allowing a controlled flow rate and a steady temp;
if engine load increases, coolant in block gets hotter, TS opens more, flow rate increases, and a steady higher temp is maintained until engine load decreases back to steady state.
NASCAR run restrictor plates (different sized hole for different running temps for each track) in place of TS to keep the temp up otherwise would get too cold (200MPH -> good airflow thru radiator).
Last edited by joecar; 10-19-2005 at 02:03 PM.
