The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

The car was stumbling BAD and threw a code. I replaced the sensor and still had the same code/problem.

We're at the shop and we researched to find that a "case relearn" is needed for the new sensor.

Not sure what this is but we found instructions to bring the car up to 4K rpm's then let it drop and shut the engine. Then immediately crank it over. Still got the problem.

Can anyone offer some help with this?

Thanks!



Christopher

horist

you need a scanner with the CASE learn built into it... (can't do it w/out one)

A tech 2 has it
Anyone with Version 1.7 of HP Tuners and do it
Anyone with EFI Live can do it

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Is there ANY other way to do it? We're at the shop right now but don't have any of the aboved listed equipment . . . that's what I get for sticking with Edit

This thing is HORRIBLE to drive with the Sensor problem as is. Plus I don't know if I could find a dealer to do the CASE today.

horist

no other way to do it that I know of...

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Unfortunately the answer is no. The procedure you refer to is what you do when you have one of the programs Horist mentioned above.

Dmoney

iTrader: (22)

Make sure your wires aren't touching your headers, I was getting the same code and replaced my crank sensor and it was still stumbling. Came to find out that my crank sensor wire was not cut but burned. Rewired and back to normal. I didn't do the case relearn and the car hasn't missed a beat.

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Ok, one quick question. We double-checked the wires and harness and wrapped the wires again. The car drove absolutely fine with no code or stumbling for 20 miles; then all of a sudden it started stumbling and the code came back.

Does this reflect a pinched wire problem or is this normal for the code not to set for a certain number of miles?

When we looked into it and checked the harness the first time, the car stumbled and coded immediately upon putting it into gear

I'd just HATE to get a Relearn for nothing if it's just a wire Is a Relearn necessary on everyone's LS1 when the Crank Position Sensor is replaced? Dmoney, you actually replaced your Crank Sensor without a relearn right?

Thanks to everyone for assisting so far



Christopher

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I had a situation where the crank relearn would not
go. It "should" learn itself without needing to be
prodded, if the conditions are right. The code comes
when it can't. Some emissions faults will inhibit the
crank learn from running. In my case it was some
piece of the EVAP system, back in the tank, and no
code for that but only "crank relearn not done" code.
Dealership fixed it under warranty, but in the current
state I think they might take a different view....

Dmoney

iTrader: (22)

Dmoney, you actually replaced your Crank Sensor without a relearn right?

That is correct. I haven't had a problem since rewiring.

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

I'm freaking frustrated now

Did the relearn twice and code/stumbling came back.

I told the mech to check the wires leading to the crank sensor housing and see if they are being pinched at all by the headers. Also told him to go ahead and check the sensor itself, maybe I was VERY unlucky and got a bad one from the factory.

Other possibility could be a faulty install. This I doubt because it's fairly straight-forward and easy.

JimmyBlue: you mentioned that "Some emissions faults will inhibit the
crank learn from running." Could you explain that further?

Each time we did the relearn the tech 2 said it took . . . until I put it in 1st gear and drove 1/2 a mile

I really appreciate everyone's assistance

tuff

iTrader: (15)

Are you sure the coil isn't causing a problem after its used for a period of time (getting hot).Is it one cylinder or multiple?Im having a problem with my car running like total **** but no codes After checkin it out for two weeks were thinking a bad reluctor ring on the crank.