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How to Log your wideband with HpTuners without a EIO

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Old 03-21-2007, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by VERT VETTE HPDE FAN
--on second thought, I don't have cats, so can I still do this? Will I just have to turn off the ses light? or maybe this won't work at all because I don't have cats???
yup just disable ses code.

Originally Posted by MrDude_1
.. but it makes me wonder... what is the resolution of the A->D converter for the LC1s output?
does anyone know?
As far as the resolution I don't know but I compared the readings I was getting in HP Tuners (analog 0-1v) and in Logworks using the serial connection and the where the sameas far as I can tell.
Old 03-21-2007, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by VERT VETTE HPDE FAN
--on second thought, I don't have cats, so can I still do this? Will I just have to turn off the ses light? or maybe this won't work at all because I don't have cats???
you NEED to have the cats REMOVED for the wideband O2 to be accurate.
otherwise, you need to use one of the front O2 spaces.
Old 03-21-2007, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
you NEED to have the cats REMOVED for the wideband O2 to be accurate.
otherwise, you need to use one of the front O2 spaces.
of course,... what was I thinking?
Old 07-07-2007, 10:05 PM
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Sorry for an old revivel, but i tried configuring my scanner to work like this and it isnt wanting to work for me. when i am looking at the voltage for the EGR it's at 5 all of the time. i redid the configuration for the wideband (like the voltage= percentage) and when i do it the way that you ordered, the wideband LED will continue to blink, at the normal rate, it's like it's never warmed up! but when i put it to normal factory specs it warms up and everything, but on the scanner it see's teh 5 volts. also i was trying to open up the logworks2 scanner but it contieuns to say i need to connect it to the com 1 port....i have it connected to the computer and everything

any idea's?
Old 07-09-2007, 07:58 AM
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first thing you need to do is figure out how to get logworks working correctly... once you have that up and running, you can see what the O2 sensor has to say and can go from there..
without that.. its hard to say whats going on.
Old 08-24-2007, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by horist
testing a theory... I theorize that there will be more people reading this when it's not stickied....
maybe you could re-sticky it?

i know its a little old, but i think ive pointed people to this thread 4 times in the last month....
Old 08-24-2007, 05:48 PM
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We used killer-bluebird's contraption on my car and it worked well. All we discovered is say your on the highway doing a log and pull over to make a change. You shut the car off, key on and load the new configuration. Then start up and take off. The wideband is reading very lean for a few minutes so you can't log until you drive 2 miles or so. We think the wideband is cooled down or something yet we are only on the side of the road for maybe 10 minutes. Anyway, once we let it come up to speed we can begin logging again. Odd behavior but thought I would throw it out there.
Old 08-24-2007, 07:49 PM
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Not sure what wideband you are using, but that is exactly the way my LM1 behaves, and that is why. It has to heat up again first, then it is good to go.
Old 08-24-2007, 07:58 PM
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We use the LC1
Old 08-25-2007, 12:23 AM
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Yeah I've gotten used to it. What seems to happen is that when you are in parked, uploading a new tune, power is going to the wideband so the wideband starts the heating up cycle and initialization. Then when you start the car the momentary change in voltage resets the unit so it has to go through a warm up cycle before reaching readiness again. It seems to take longer to become ready when it is interrupted. During this time the wideband just reports 15-1, AFR then once fully heated and initialized the readings are normal. I need to follow up with Innovative on this matter just haven't had a chance.
Old 08-25-2007, 10:32 AM
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thats just the normal warmup cycle... it will happen everytime with the sensor.

you cant start recording your log until it starts sending real data.
Old 09-02-2007, 12:08 PM
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Is this only for cars without A/C? In other words, will using the A/C pressure sensor as your wide band input into the PCM cause you A/C to not function properly?
Old 09-02-2007, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RoDan
Is this only for cars without A/C? In other words, will using the A/C pressure sensor as your wide band input into the PCM cause you A/C to not function properly?
It is my understanding that if you want to log through the A/C pressure sensor, you cannot run the AC. You just can have the wire spliced in permanently but you have to disconnect the plug from the A/C when running logs otherwise you get voltage signals from the A/C unit along with what the wideband is sending. Having the wire attached should not interfere with the operation of the AC when not connected to the wideband. So if you want to hook it up permanently and run a gauge or something like that the EGR or Rear O2 are better options. But most people are not running logs all the time unless you are compulsive like me.
Old 09-02-2007, 06:41 PM
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thanks for the info. I currently have it hooked up to the A/C but I am gonna move it over to EGR so my A/C works again. Pin 55 in the blue connector for EGR right? Whats the easiest way to connect to this? I'm assuming steal a pin from one of the rear O2 inputs that aren't being used anymore.
Old 09-04-2007, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RoDan
thanks for the info. I currently have it hooked up to the A/C but I am gonna move it over to EGR so my A/C works again. Pin 55 in the blue connector for EGR right? Whats the easiest way to connect to this? I'm assuming steal a pin from one of the rear O2 inputs that aren't being used anymore.

you got it.

easiest way is to clip the wire you want to move, then on the PCM connector, pop the colored cap off. and pull the pin/wire out... then push it up in the slot you want.
its really easy to do.

while you're there, if you're a manual trans, nows the time to move another "extra" pin if you want a PCM based shift light.. or any of the other cool things.
Old 09-23-2007, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1

while you're there, if you're a manual trans, nows the time to move another "extra" pin if you want a PCM based shift light.. or any of the other cool things.
got a link to this
Old 03-25-2009, 11:25 PM
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will be doing this soon
Old 04-11-2009, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 98mysticZ
will be doing this soon
I just did it. I used an AEM UEGO. Found this thread searching because the AEM gauge reads .5:1 to .7:1 low. AFR on HP Tuners is dead on with the EGR voltage (compared to the chart that came with the AEM.

I used a range of 10-20 and this formula: ([PID.2811]/.5)+10

Here are some pics of my setup. I didn't drill any holes or hack any wiring.
To get the wideband to run through the EGR I used the rear O2 plug (since they are tuned out)

On the O2 plug I used a cut off end of an old O2 sensor to plug into it, and spliced onto the Purple wire, ran it up through the shift cable boot and to the gauge output.

The other end of the purple wire used to go to the ECM blue 65, I swapped it to blue 55 which is the EGR pin. I enabled EGR in my 2002 tune (and as many write ups that I read none said to zero out the EGR spark correction under Engine--> spark control-->misc-->EGR correction. I got low end KR from not doing that at first)

The rest is in the pics.

Last edited by 2002CAMAROSSLS1T56; 05-12-2009 at 12:25 AM.
Old 04-11-2009, 10:54 PM
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That gauge placement will probably end up driving you nuts, lol. I have mine in an a pillar pod, but it doesn't even work properly, so I'm just gonna scrap it.
Old 04-12-2009, 07:19 AM
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Eh, it depends on the guy.

I've got a 5" tach located in the same place. I can't see speed below 35 or 40mph but if I just go the speed of traffic on slow roads its no issue. I guess it's a bit different covering the tach with another tach but to each his own.


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