SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

I'm trying to use the LC-1 as the narrowband, and have the wideband input run through the EGR.
I also had Caspers make me the matching connectors for the EGR and O2 sensor so that everything would be completely plug and play.

LC1 Red to stock O2 pin D
LC1 Blue to stock O2 pin C
LC1 Yellow to stock O2 pin B
LC1 White to stock O2 pin A
LC1 Green to stock O2 pin A
LC1 Brown to EGR harness brown
LC1 black runs to one side of the pushbutton and LED, other side of pushbutton and LED run to stock O2 pin A

I got everything wired up and installed and ran the LC1 through its initial setup sequence per the manual.
Then fired it up and checked in HPTuners to see if I was reading EGR voltage. Everything looked good and I was getting voltage, so started setting everything up in HPTuners to log AFR and whatnot.
PID.2811/.625+10 to log AFR through EGR and a couple of histograms later, I'm ready to go.
I start LMProgrammer and set Analog 2 to 0 to 5 volts and 10 to 20 AFR and reprogram the LC-1, fire the car, and I'm seeing AFR in HPTuners! WooHoo!

I let the car idle for a little while so it would settle into closed loop and started seeing an AFR in the low 15's, so I figure I'm close and I'd start checking for a ground offset.

This is where things went wrong.
I set the LC-1 to output .5 volts for 10 and 20 AFR and fire the car, hoping to see around .5 volts on PID.2811. Not even close. 1.2x volts and bouncing around. Hopefully I don't have that much of a problem? Hell, I figured I was close when closed loop idle was in the low 15's just on the base formula.
So I set the LC-1 to output 3 volts and get 3.8, then 4, then 3.7, then 4.3...and it's just bouncing around all over the place. Now I'm confused.
A couple more tries, and now something is really wrong. It seems that 75% of the time I'm getting 5 volts and it's hanging...so I gave up.

Why can't I get the LC-1 to flatline a voltage?
I can't think that the problem is the way I wired it when I was so close after the first start-up. Or could it be?
Why am I getting a varying voltage when reading PID.2811?
Why is it now starting to hang at 5 volts?

I've read as many old posts here and on HPT's forum that my heads spinning with ideas...the first is to completely re-wire it, but I know others have said they got theirs to work the same way I wired mine.

I'm frustrated enough that I just might use my LM-1 instead now and scrap the idea of leaving the LC-1 in permanently as narrowband and wideband.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Please don't do that, as your setup is exactly what I'd like to mimic, and I need to know how to do this too.
Besides all the reading i've done, I'd just like confirmation this worx.

Someone help this man!

ringram

Id does work. I have my LC1 as NB and WB.
Takes a couple of days messing with the wires. You can just hook all the grounds together usually.
They key is signal and signal ground to the PCM. These 2 wires are easy to swap around and get wrong.
Power and Ground are easy. WB goes to your tuner obviously, Plus the WB ground.
Do some searching on efilive and hpt forums, there are a few graphic diagrams and so on.

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

I have searched...for hours and I must have 5 different diagrams printed out sitting next to me.
I guess what I'm not sure of is if the way I have it wired (with the LC1 white, green, and black wires run through pin A on the stock O2 connector) is correct?
The other thing is I can't get logworks to even open so that I can see what the AFR looks like in there.
Then at least I could narrow it down to being an HPT input problem.

Then what happens when I disconnect the cable from the OBDII connector? I'm reading something now on the HPT forums about needing to put a switch in to allow the grounds to ground somewhere else. But then all this stuff applies to the EIO, and I'm not using an EIO.

Can someone at least verify that the way I have it wired should work whether or not I have HPT plugged in or not?