2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I am trying to get my car tuned and I am having issues with cold starts and stalling when I put the car into gear when warm. I am thinking my idle might be set too low. I am trying to tune it at 850rpm hot. What is you idle set at?? Cold and hot...

Thanks

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

The few that I have tuned, I used 925-950.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I was trying to get mine set at 850 and I guess that is too low. How much experience do you have at tuning???

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

IMO you're generalizing a bit much with your idle speed, but I tuned a 408 a little while back with a similar cam. I don't have my laptop with me, but I want to say we had his idling around 850 without a hitch. It might've been 800?

A little more timing at idle, and having your RAF dialed in will likely solve your problem.

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

BTW, what's your LSA on the cam?

And have you done an idle log (with idle trims) while in gear to dial in your RAF?

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

Cam is a 112LSA +2. Someone said that with the ET Performance heads, to use a newer timing table. The timing does seem pretty low. Should I just use a stock timing table for now and adjust the WOT at a later point?

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

You can try something as subtle as adding a few degree's at idle if you want. The main place to add timing (for your issue) is in the Idle In Drive table.

LugNutLS1

825 here on a 112 lsa. so far so good

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

The big thing is to lock down the timing,that really helps idle.Then make sure the IAC is in a ussuable position (I like 30-50 count)I've always made a habit to try to keep the car from loping to bad which causes havic on the 02 sensors.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I have a similar cammed 402. Mine is an m6 and I run 925 idle RPM at temp. My idle is slightly higher as you go colder ECT for startup. You have to get the Idle airflow dialed in. I used the LTIT+STIT method. I also run 31* timing in my idle cells and I have them ramped up as you go into the lower cells towards 0 RPM. This helps it to recover if the RPM dips and the IAC doesn't compensate. I also smoothed out the Idle over and underspeed corrections so that it is smoother. The factory tables add and subtract timing very quickly. You also want to make sure that the high octane timing table (and low octane if in SD) matches the values in the idle timing tables. This will keep it from having to switch to different values in the same cells when you transition from the driving cell to the idle cell. Hope this helps. I would think that you would have to use slightly more idle to keep it running in gear but haven't tuned an A4 and I don't know how the converter effects this. Probably depends on the converter size though.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I found one of my problems last night. After investigating a part number from my set of 52# Siemens Deka injectors I bought, I found out that they were low impedence. I bought a set of FMS 42's soon as I realized this. Hopefully this will make tuning a bit easier....

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

I hate injector issues like that... so many of them look the same its next to impossible to know if you've got the wrong poundage, as some don't even have numbers on them.

I'm kind of surprised your car even ran!

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Glad you found that out. Can I call you later today, say around 12pm?

Bill

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

PM'ed you

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

news?

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

Still waiting for the new injectors