Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

So I was driving around tonight and got on the car a little just because I haven't in a while well that turned out to be a big mistake. The car went kinda bezerk, the gauges all floated around and all my lights came on and the car died shortly after, I managed to coast it into an empty parking lot and began to look all my electrical connections over. I hadn't discovered anything unusual and when I tried to start the car it turned over but did not start. I noticed that it didn't sound like the fuel pump was running and after several attempts the car finally started. I drove the mile or so home and half way the car sputtered very badly the gauges went crazy and it almost died again. I have an upgraded racetronix fuel pump kit that only has about 4K miles on it and has never given me trouble before, any idea what is going on here?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

It sounds like a charging issue to me.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

just checked the battery and with the car off it reads 12.95V so I don't think its that

mercer

iTrader: (2)

i had the same thing my gauges floated all over and then the car died. my alternator was bad and it fucked my battery. idk if that helps at all

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

that defiantly helps. I'm thinking its electrical for sure, but its weird that it only happens at WOT and never just driving around. Anyhow I checked my battery after I left the lights on for a while and it still read 12.69V so I think it may be ok. Any other suggestions

LS1curious

Check the block ground by the motor mount and also the ground and power feeds comming to and from the battery.

If that doesn;t work Jeff give me a ring at the shop.

Mr S

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Do you have an underdrive pulley?

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

I just got home tonight and will have to check those grounds tomorrow, no underdrive pulley though.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

You have to load test the battery. It can have an internal short and still give a normal reading on a voltmeter when it's not under load. Have somebody crank it while you have the voltmeter on it or take the battery to a shop.

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

is the batt post extensions tight? the ones that come with the pump

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Have you checked that your battery is secured? Not
able to roll back against the fender and short to the
sheet metal? It sounds like a main electrical fault.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Went over a few things today quickly, the battery is safe and secured tightly. Also checked the ground on the strut tower and it was a lil rusty but once I removed the nut it was clean and looked like it was getting a good connection so I scuffed it up an bit and reconnected it. Both battery posts and supplied power connectors are on tightly as well so I guess I will have to get under the car and inspect that ground going near the motor mount and see if that is ok, if so then I'll see if I can have the battery and alternator checked at my work (dealership) on tuesday.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Checked the PCM connections today and found corrosion on four pins on the set closest to the firewall. Clean them all out and took the car for a little spin, at WOT the car did as it should and ran great spinning the tires very bad but it put a smile on my face. Only problem is that my TCS OFF light stays on and the switch doesn't do anything, will this go away after a few startups or is there something else?

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

UPDATE!
Went to drive the car to work today and it dies about half a mile away from my house I had to push it off the road into a parking lot only to discover that it wouldn't start and once again no fuel pump kicking on. Looks like the corroded wires weren't the main problem after all. Left the car til this afternoon thinking maybe the pump is getting hot and shutting off and then cooling off to start again. Checked it this afternoon and its still not working so I'm gonna go over the wiring and then possibly replace the pump, IT NEVER ENDS!

LS1curious

Did you replace the pump bucket/sending unit assembly and the sending unit pigtial when you did the pump ?? gm cars are notorious for the pins burning outs of the Pigtials to the sending unit and creating intermitent problems.

Are your gauges still flipping out ?

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

I replaced the entire stock fuel pump and the wiring harness with the Racetronix unit.
http://www.racetronix.com/RX-F99-FPKG-2.html

I've checked over the accessible electrical in the car with no luck so it looks like I'll be removing the pump tomorrow. It seems lots of people are having trouble with the supplied hose clamp not begin enough and they are using two instead and having good luck with that. Maybe the hose has come loose.

As for the gauges they seem to be fine now.

LS1curious

Ok so one problem fixed another problem surfaces. I am talking about the portion of the harness that plugs into the sending unit at the top of the tank. The 4 pin peice. they sell a repair pigtial at most reputable parts places. Works great.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

I did not replace that connector just the one coming from the pump itself, I'll keep an eye on that if I tear into it tomorrow. Thanks

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Both connectors on top of the tank look brand new, starting to get pissed here that my 5K mile pump is shot.