Rede

iTrader: (2)

Hi all.

I had gears changed in the rearend after the pinion bearing had pitted and the rollers were chewed up = howling like a banshee.
I opted fo 3.73s over the stock 3.23s since the whole rear end was tore apart to install all new bearings and what not.
That weekend I hit the track with drag radials and was VERY disapointed with my times.
The car was running 8tenths to 1 second slower than my normal times.
The launch didn't seem to be quite as hard and when the trany hit second gear, it felt like I was only going 3/4 throttle. It seemed to not pull nearly as hard as it normally does. Third gear seemed to pull fine. Other than that, I didn't experience any other problems... besides the speedo being out.

After reading varrious threads in here, I called my buddy Dave with HPT and had him tune it for me after hearing about how torque management likes to retard the timing.

After seveeral runs over a few days, he managed to eliminate all knock and remove all the torque management.
I don't have a wideband o2 so he didn't touch A/F at all.

Durring the last day of tuning, he slightly raised the revlimter to 6100 and the shift point to 6000. Shift time was lowered to .35 I believe. (this was following suggestions on the HPT website)

Everything was running aces and the car would pull HARD. He wanted to do one more run just to double check everything was good.
This is where we run into a snafu.

The transmision did not shift in 2nd and I hit the rev limiter for a moment, then it shifted.

He checked his settings and lowered the shift point to 5900 and we tried again... same thing.
Tried again with shift point at 5800... same thing.
Lowered shift pressure a bit... same thing.

Finally he set the shift points/pressure/time/ect.... all back to done stock settings, while keeping the rest of the tune. He need to research why this was happening so we could correct it.

We did one moire run, thinking that the stock shift settings would surely work... but I hit the rev limiter, AGAIN.


Anyone else experience this?
Is there something that he missed as far as shift settings??

I can get the data log from him if anyone wants to have a looky...

Rede

iTrader: (2)

I forogt to mention that the fuel trim is showing 14% lean too.

I don't know if this is a factor, but I'd like to know what causes it!

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

The fuel trims won't matter for your problem but it should be addressed too. Since you are a bolt-on car, the VE and MAF should not be off 14%, check for air leaks etc. 99Hawk262 did a cam swap in his car and we were re-tuning his car and it would not shift from 2-3 at WOT. long story short, his trans. was on its way out. I would suspect yours may be as well.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Rhino.

I noticed in this section that one guy had his car dyno tuned and was talking about his milage going down slightly and he too had the same 14% lean with the slp lid... would this have anything to do with the lid, or the air tube that runs from the lid?
Just thought it was odd that we had the same lid and the same fuel trim issue.

Where should I check for leaks... just from the lid to the TB?

Sorry, still a novice

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

Vaccum leaks could exist around TB, and intake manifold. Also do you have longtubes??? Could have an exhaust leak causing the high fuel trims. If all checks out good, then have your tuner dial in the VE table and the MAF table. IF your MAF is de-screened, I have seen some cars that were reading lean after de-screening. Regardless, check for problems, then tune if needed.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Only changes in exhaust would be 3" Hi Flow cats and a hi-flow V-Force muffler.

I wonder if the SLP lid's plastic isn't sealing against the opening the of MAF or maybe its because of that useless smooth below which makes the lid fit like a saddle on a sow?

This might be a silly question, but is there any trick/preffered meathod to detect an air leak?
If it was say... a tire leaking air out, I could use soap suds and watch for bubbling... so if there a way to watch for air sucking in?

The first run we did, right away the front o2s crapped the bed, so I bought brand new ones a week before tuning.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

Make sure your perf shift table is set to all zeros, and you may want to jack up the pressure a bit. That may help it out.
Being off 14% is quite a bit for just a lid. You may wanna check to see if your maf wires are dirty. They would cause a lean condition.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Would a ported and polished TB have any effect on the 14% lean sit-e-ation?

I was reading a link in one of the stickies under the trany section for shift points and such, but I think I'm more confused than ever.

Here's the link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/114376-line-pressure-discussion-when-too-much.html

One guy says to do this, the other says to go with a shift kit.
One mentions servos, the other a flux capasitor. (j/k but it's over my head either way)

Plane and simple.. is it perfectly fine to tune shift points with the HPT software (although its unfamilure territor for my buddy who's doing the tuning) or should I just have a kit installed?
If I should be looking for a kit because of lack of shift point tuning experience... is there a certain "all in one" kit that I should look at?

If this is leaning more towards a question for the trany section, I'll ask over there too...

Sorry for all the questions

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

The Transgo HD-2 is the best kit, and good for any car. Get a good servo too, it will help the 1-2 shift a good bit. BUT, neither of those is going to make the shift points any different than what is commanded in the tune. You will still have to tune the shift points via HP or EFILive, and also you will probably need to make sure all TQ Management is removed for the shift kit to work right.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Thanks muchly!

Some I could understand, but it became really technical and I was totally lost. Specially when everyone else has a different oppinion and they say the opposit.

All torque management is set to zero already and I haven't hit the strip since tuning. So if setting at 0 is a big no no... there's still time to change it before I blowing it up.

The servo you mentioned... is that this critter?

http://finishlinetrans.com/store/pro...products_id=61

I'm located in north western Alberta (that in canada eh ) so there really isn't a performance shop around that seciallized in F-bodys... could my favorite automative shop tackle the kit and servo install, or am I better off seeking a trany shop?
Also, do you have a rough guestimate on what the install time would run?

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

That one is ok, but this one is the badass:http://finishlinetrans.com/store/pro...products_id=83

TQ MGT should be fine at 0.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Any guesses as to how many hours I'd be looking at to have a local shop do the shift kit and the servo install?

I'm hardly the man to tackle anything behond simple bolt-ons..