I just bought EFI-Live and an LM1: What do I do thread...
#1
I just bought EFI-Live and an LM1: What do I do thread...
Sticky this, please!
I am making this thread because you can't buy a LM1 and EFI-Live out of the box and get them to work with no prior knowledge. The PIDS that come with EFI Live WILL NOT work out of the box and setting this up is a lot easier and faster if you have some help.
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The best way to do this is to come up with a Custom PID in EFI-Live and then set up the LM1 to work with it. You can create a custom pid in EFI-Live by typing in information to a file called calc_pids.
For a Vista user this is the file path to find this file: C:\Users\{User Name}\Documents\EFILive\V7\User Configuration\calc_pids.txt
A XP user can find the EFI-Live folder in their "MY DOCUMENTS" folder.
If you still can't find it try Windows Search!
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Paste this under the add slot defs in you calc_pids file:
You need the tabs between each column....
Paste this under the Parameter Reference Numbers Section:
Notice that this PID requires that you plug the Analog out of your wideband into the External 1 of your EFI-Live module.
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But, if my LM1 can go to 22 AFR, then why do I want to limit the range that the PID will tune for?
This is because an exhuast leak or other reading that is actually an error could mess up your tune. Why allow the PID to change the tune more than you would want to run the car at anyways? Also, if the wire picks up interference it will effect the PID less.
Example:
With 10 to 17 AFR over 5 volts, difference of 1.4 AFR/V
With 22 to 8 AFR over 5 volts, diferrence 2.8 AFR/V
That's half the error per volt because of the limited range.
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What should the log works settings be on each tab?
You need to match the setting of the channel to whatever device you are using or whatever your PID demands.
For the PID in this thread we will use the following settings.
In Logworks LM1 Programmer, pick a channel and set it up like this
0 volts = 10AFR and 5 volts = 16.8 AFR
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When these settings are saved in the analog 1 tab, it jumps to 4.996 volt at 22.34 air-fuel-ratio. Is that normal?
Yes. It will often slightly vary from what exact number you input. You can make your PID correct this but I am not worried about it. This could be a software error or hardware limitation.
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What's the difference between analog out 1 and analog out 2? How do I know which one I'm using? Should I set them both up the same?
There are two channels so you can run multiple things from the same controller. The other one could feed an analog gauge or hook into the stock computer if you plan on a permenant install. Otherwise, you will be using one channel to tune.
For the WB Analog out Cable:
Red + Ground on the Analog out gives you channel one.
White + Ground on the Analog out gives you channel two, the second tab on the LogWorks Programmer.
For the V2 EFI-Live module:
The pins are as stated on the sticker if you are holding the V2 upside down. The grounds are always on the right. The positives are on the left.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
I need more help. What else can I do?
Poking around Innovate's website (www.tuneyourengine.com) and getting their full user manual will help out about. The LM1 doesn't come with this in the box.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...LM1_Manual.pdf
--------------------------------------------------------------------
This thread is subject to updates upon suggestions.
I am making this thread because you can't buy a LM1 and EFI-Live out of the box and get them to work with no prior knowledge. The PIDS that come with EFI Live WILL NOT work out of the box and setting this up is a lot easier and faster if you have some help.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The best way to do this is to come up with a Custom PID in EFI-Live and then set up the LM1 to work with it. You can create a custom pid in EFI-Live by typing in information to a file called calc_pids.
For a Vista user this is the file path to find this file: C:\Users\{User Name}\Documents\EFILive\V7\User Configuration\calc_pids.txt
A XP user can find the EFI-Live folder in their "MY DOCUMENTS" folder.
If you still can't find it try Windows Search!
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Paste this under the add slot defs in you calc_pids file:
You need the tabs between each column....
Paste this under the Parameter Reference Numbers Section:
Notice that this PID requires that you plug the Analog out of your wideband into the External 1 of your EFI-Live module.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
But, if my LM1 can go to 22 AFR, then why do I want to limit the range that the PID will tune for?
This is because an exhuast leak or other reading that is actually an error could mess up your tune. Why allow the PID to change the tune more than you would want to run the car at anyways? Also, if the wire picks up interference it will effect the PID less.
Example:
With 10 to 17 AFR over 5 volts, difference of 1.4 AFR/V
With 22 to 8 AFR over 5 volts, diferrence 2.8 AFR/V
That's half the error per volt because of the limited range.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
What should the log works settings be on each tab?
You need to match the setting of the channel to whatever device you are using or whatever your PID demands.
For the PID in this thread we will use the following settings.
In Logworks LM1 Programmer, pick a channel and set it up like this
0 volts = 10AFR and 5 volts = 16.8 AFR
--------------------------------------------------------------------
When these settings are saved in the analog 1 tab, it jumps to 4.996 volt at 22.34 air-fuel-ratio. Is that normal?
Yes. It will often slightly vary from what exact number you input. You can make your PID correct this but I am not worried about it. This could be a software error or hardware limitation.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
What's the difference between analog out 1 and analog out 2? How do I know which one I'm using? Should I set them both up the same?
There are two channels so you can run multiple things from the same controller. The other one could feed an analog gauge or hook into the stock computer if you plan on a permenant install. Otherwise, you will be using one channel to tune.
For the WB Analog out Cable:
Red + Ground on the Analog out gives you channel one.
White + Ground on the Analog out gives you channel two, the second tab on the LogWorks Programmer.
For the V2 EFI-Live module:
The pins are as stated on the sticker if you are holding the V2 upside down. The grounds are always on the right. The positives are on the left.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
I need more help. What else can I do?
Poking around Innovate's website (www.tuneyourengine.com) and getting their full user manual will help out about. The LM1 doesn't come with this in the box.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...LM1_Manual.pdf
--------------------------------------------------------------------
This thread is subject to updates upon suggestions.
Last edited by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed; 12-09-2007 at 11:38 PM.
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
When the serial inputs come out none of that will be needed.
But definatly good to post in the meantime.
Even though you have to make sure the LM1 is programmed correctly. from the factory it is only set to output 0-1 volts on those outputs, so you need to make that work also. AND you need to slow down the refresh output the lm1 is putting out. It will give you a more clear and accurate reading that way...
Also on your math, you need to make sure that when the unit puts out 0 it is actually 10 and when the screen shows 2.5V that it matches the lm1, and when it is 5v it matches. With that math it might be off from the values in between.
2.5V output my be 13.45 AF actual, but in efilive it may show a value of 14.1.. Then as it goes towards the outer edge of the voltage, it would be more correct...
But again, All that will change if/when they release the direct serial port communications with efi v2 and the wideband units.. No math will be needed..
But definatly good to post in the meantime.
Even though you have to make sure the LM1 is programmed correctly. from the factory it is only set to output 0-1 volts on those outputs, so you need to make that work also. AND you need to slow down the refresh output the lm1 is putting out. It will give you a more clear and accurate reading that way...
Also on your math, you need to make sure that when the unit puts out 0 it is actually 10 and when the screen shows 2.5V that it matches the lm1, and when it is 5v it matches. With that math it might be off from the values in between.
2.5V output my be 13.45 AF actual, but in efilive it may show a value of 14.1.. Then as it goes towards the outer edge of the voltage, it would be more correct...
But again, All that will change if/when they release the direct serial port communications with efi v2 and the wideband units.. No math will be needed..
#4
When the serial inputs come out none of that will be needed.
But definatly good to post in the meantime.
Even though you have to make sure the LM1 is programmed correctly. from the factory it is only set to output 0-1 volts on those outputs, so you need to make that work also. AND you need to slow down the refresh output the lm1 is putting out. It will give you a more clear and accurate reading that way...
Also on your math, you need to make sure that when the unit puts out 0 it is actually 10 and when the screen shows 2.5V that it matches the lm1, and when it is 5v it matches. With that math it might be off from the values in between.
2.5V output my be 13.45 AF actual, but in efilive it may show a value of 14.1.. Then as it goes towards the outer edge of the voltage, it would be more correct...
But again, All that will change if/when they release the direct serial port communications with efi v2 and the wideband units.. No math will be needed..
But definatly good to post in the meantime.
Even though you have to make sure the LM1 is programmed correctly. from the factory it is only set to output 0-1 volts on those outputs, so you need to make that work also. AND you need to slow down the refresh output the lm1 is putting out. It will give you a more clear and accurate reading that way...
Also on your math, you need to make sure that when the unit puts out 0 it is actually 10 and when the screen shows 2.5V that it matches the lm1, and when it is 5v it matches. With that math it might be off from the values in between.
2.5V output my be 13.45 AF actual, but in efilive it may show a value of 14.1.. Then as it goes towards the outer edge of the voltage, it would be more correct...
But again, All that will change if/when they release the direct serial port communications with efi v2 and the wideband units.. No math will be needed..
Please keep us posted on the serial communications release. Analog systems always take much more planning than digital.