$100 to anyone who can give me the right.....
12-20-2007, 06:12 PM
#1
$100 to anyone who can give me the right..... I will give $100 to anyone who can tell me the right answer to fix my car. You need to know something I will tell you. I have just spent over 10 hours in dealership with tech 2 and numerous scanning equipment and they can not figure it out..... Here is what is wrong. Car will not start. It cranks but will not fire.
It is getting spark, It has the correct compression, it is getting fuel. All of which I first hand watched get checked. All grounds are in place all fuses are good, all relays are good. I have 2 computers both which do not change anything. This car ran and drove. I turned it off and now it will not start.
There is gas in the tank, the fuel rail shows 58lbs of pressure. There are no check engine lights other then a u1000 and u1016 with I have read mean absolutly nothing.
The Crank and cam Sensor have both been checked. Both are is good working order and are sending the correct signals
I am attaching the file. If there is anything that you need to know to help try and diagnose the problem I will be checking frequently to find out what is the problem. Even if it sounds off the wall I will try it. I am desperate.
This is not a game $100 to whoever diagnoses my problem.
Here is my file. Good luck.
It is getting spark, It has the correct compression, it is getting fuel. All of which I first hand watched get checked. All grounds are in place all fuses are good, all relays are good. I have 2 computers both which do not change anything. This car ran and drove. I turned it off and now it will not start.
There is gas in the tank, the fuel rail shows 58lbs of pressure. There are no check engine lights other then a u1000 and u1016 with I have read mean absolutly nothing.
The Crank and cam Sensor have both been checked. Both are is good working order and are sending the correct signals
I am attaching the file. If there is anything that you need to know to help try and diagnose the problem I will be checking frequently to find out what is the problem. Even if it sounds off the wall I will try it. I am desperate.
This is not a game $100 to whoever diagnoses my problem.
Here is my file. Good luck.
12-20-2007, 06:23 PM
#2
Are the injectors being pulsed? Have they been scoped? Have you tried starting fluid? Or otherwise introducing fuel to the engine? Is there something blocking the air path completely? If it has spark, and fuel TO THE CYLINDERS, and COMPRESSED AIR, theres no real reason it shouldnt start.
Are the plugs fouled? What is the temp reading on the scanner?
Does the battery have enough voltage to sustain a scanner reading during cranking?
How are you testing the spark output?
PS I'll look at the tune later, but that probably wont mean anything.
PPS not interested in your money. This shouldnt be that hard. Where are you located?
Are the plugs fouled? What is the temp reading on the scanner?
Does the battery have enough voltage to sustain a scanner reading during cranking?
How are you testing the spark output?
PS I'll look at the tune later, but that probably wont mean anything.
PPS not interested in your money. This shouldnt be that hard. Where are you located?
12-20-2007, 06:41 PM
#3
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is it flooded? this has happened to me a couple times just pull the injector fuse and crank it over. if it starts to sputter then it was flooded.
this is my wild stab at the problem... when it happened to me i coulda cranked all day long with no fire
this is my wild stab at the problem... when it happened to me i coulda cranked all day long with no fire
12-20-2007, 06:41 PM
#4
Starting fluid has been used and nothing
We put a injector noid on it and yes it is pulsing!
We tested spark with a spark tester on all wires on both sides!
We removed all of the piping to the intake so no restrictions!
Plugs are brand new!
I am not sure what the temp is on the scanner I will find out tomorrow.
Batter is brand new with 750 cranking amps just bought a new one yesterday.
I am located in Kansas. I know that it should not be that hard all of the elements are there but it still will not fire. I had 4 ASE certified techs working on this car today and not a single one could figure out the problem!
We put a injector noid on it and yes it is pulsing!
We tested spark with a spark tester on all wires on both sides!
We removed all of the piping to the intake so no restrictions!
Plugs are brand new!
I am not sure what the temp is on the scanner I will find out tomorrow.
Batter is brand new with 750 cranking amps just bought a new one yesterday.
I am located in Kansas. I know that it should not be that hard all of the elements are there but it still will not fire. I had 4 ASE certified techs working on this car today and not a single one could figure out the problem!
12-20-2007, 06:50 PM
#6
TECH Apprentice
that u1000 is a serious dtc it's very hard to diag. it could be any module in the vehicle causing the class 2 data line to go down. i would try pulling fuses/unpluging modules to see if the dtc goes history or clears. you may have a module blocking the data line or there is a short to power or ground on the data line. all the modules talk on the class 2 data line which is in series so let's say that the bcm was talking way too long or just pulling down the data line. that u1000 dtc may set in any of the other modules. verify that u can communcate with all the modules. what aftermarket stuff do you have wired into the vehicle?
12-20-2007, 06:55 PM
#7
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im just gunna throw this out there...and say maybe its the starter or something with the ignition...ive had a friend with a problem where it would just turn and turn, but not start. i cant remember what it was thought..it had something to do with one of those two...
good luck with getting you car fixed! hope you can figure it out quickly.
good luck with getting you car fixed! hope you can figure it out quickly.
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12-20-2007, 07:14 PM
#8
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Definately check your temp on the scanner. Does it sound like it wants to go at all ? What about after like twenty-thirty seconds of cranking ? Unplug the battery for fifteen to twenty minutes and try again.
12-20-2007, 07:37 PM
#11
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release all the pressure out of your fuel lines and see if your fuel pump will recharge it to correct pressure, if pressure dosnt return check fuel pump fuses and/or the fuel pump itself
12-20-2007, 09:53 PM
#12
well two things
if you have spark and fuel it should a least try to start
you should try the very primmitive way of testing spark and pull a plug and ground it to something (using isolated plies so you dont shock your self) and look for spark , and that well tell you if you have spark in the cylinders
testing the wires for spark may say you have it it but it might not be strong enough to "light up" your plugs
if you have spark and fuel it should a least try to start
you should try the very primmitive way of testing spark and pull a plug and ground it to something (using isolated plies so you dont shock your self) and look for spark , and that well tell you if you have spark in the cylinders
testing the wires for spark may say you have it it but it might not be strong enough to "light up" your plugs
12-20-2007, 10:06 PM
#14
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this may sound VERY stupid....
but this same thing happened on some other boards i go on (grand prix's) and the guy had sucked a RAG into the intake and was in the intake manifold.
And also i had a problem like this. the only way i got it to start was floor it crank it for 20 seconds and it started up.
but this same thing happened on some other boards i go on (grand prix's) and the guy had sucked a RAG into the intake and was in the intake manifold.
And also i had a problem like this. the only way i got it to start was floor it crank it for 20 seconds and it started up.
12-20-2007, 10:33 PM
#15
I think a big part of the problem is this.
a. he's using a 2 bar map sensor but using a 1 bar stock operating system without making the proper changes to do so.
b. he's trying to run SD but hasn't setup the codes correctly to do so nor has he failed the maf by setting the fail frequency table to 0
There may be other factors but those would be the two I'd deal with first.
a. he's using a 2 bar map sensor but using a 1 bar stock operating system without making the proper changes to do so.
b. he's trying to run SD but hasn't setup the codes correctly to do so nor has he failed the maf by setting the fail frequency table to 0
There may be other factors but those would be the two I'd deal with first.
12-21-2007, 07:10 AM
#16
that u1000 is a serious dtc it's very hard to diag. it could be any module in the vehicle causing the class 2 data line to go down. i would try pulling fuses/unpluging modules to see if the dtc goes history or clears. you may have a module blocking the data line or there is a short to power or ground on the data line. all the modules talk on the class 2 data line which is in series so let's say that the bcm was talking way too long or just pulling down the data line. that u1000 dtc may set in any of the other modules. verify that u can communcate with all the modules. what aftermarket stuff do you have wired into the vehicle?
Now a list of things that are not on the car that were originaly is a little different. Things not on the car: MAF, O2 sensors, egr, cruise control, Removed 4l60e so all wires that went into the trans are no longer being used, and foglights.
12-21-2007, 07:14 AM
#17
It does not want to go at all just spins. We cranked it for about 20 30 seconds about 20 times and nothing. I have unplugged the batter several times and let it sit. Sometimes cause I killed the battery and others so I could save what juice I had!