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Old 07-21-2008, 08:24 PM   #1
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Default Fix your P1133 / P1153 codes

Hey sorry to hear that your having such large issues with this code. Thank god you got people like me who have spent literally thousands in order to find out how to stop this issue. Im going explain to you how to trouble shoot it. I cant say I am going to fix your issue. But, this is definatly a good place to start.

1.) Bad o2's -- It is pretty common for these things to be a little finiky. If they are old, just replace them. I know $75 a pop is a bit pricy, but dont just buy one. Buy a set if the ones your replacing are old. If one is going out, the other is shortly behind. I dont really have a preferance so choose at your own will.

If your o2's are good and you know this by trouble shooting (switching sides) and your still getting codes keep going down the list of 2,3,4,5,6.

Some people have been having issues because of stock Delco's dont switch as fast as the rear Corvette o2's (usually after a header installation). So, an option is the rear Corvette o2's. Another added bonus is with the longer cable compared to the Camaro cable. This works especially well if you have headers because of the relocation of the hole in the header itself. An o2 shouldnt cost you more then 75 bucks and can pick them up almost any automotive store.

2.) Heater Wrap -- I personally didnt do this option. Many people have tried this and from what I have mostly read, this does not fix the majority of the issues. Secondly, I can see this greatly reducing the life of a ceramic header so I didnt do it. It is an option, not one that I would recommend, but an option nonetheless.

3.) Exhaust Leak -- It is possible, even the SMALLEST pin hole of a leak can throw off your o2 making it think its bad because its getting too lean of a "smell" causing to make your side run richer. Having an exhaust leak will also lower your temperature in that side of the exhaust. So make very sure this is not an issue. Your best option on checking this is getting the car on a lift and go over every square inch of the exhaust. Do not take any shortcuts with this, it could save you alot of money and time. Solutions can vary from tac weld, clamp, ect ect... if the hole is too big you may have to replace the exhaust system entirely use your best judgement on that though.

4.) Gaskets -- Many reasons for this is a recent/older header installation. Many people try and reuse gaskets. Just dont do it, if you think it might be a gasket that has burned out, replace it. Another thing you have to be worrysome about is if your have recently done a big bottom out. By that i mean scraping... If you have, you can possibly damage the header itself to where it doesnt quite meat up with header to gasket to engine installation. Therefore resulting in exhaust leak. Try pushing on the collector (when its cold) to the inside and out of the car to make sure it cant rattle. If it can you got major problems and a code is the least of your worries.

5.) Electrical -- Make sure that you go under your car and visibly check all the wiring that touches the o2 all the way back to your computer. Even if a wire is crimped, it could have been damaged. Check for burns, wear and tear, and even possibly missing wiring for you lowered guys. Now, im no electrician but i have a friend that is very savy with electronics to find out if all my wires were getting power. Make sure your getting enough power through your wires. If anyone has the spec's on that please post below for the "electrical buddy".

6.) Tune -- If you have tried the other alternatives this could very well be your problem. Sometimes the insufficent switching is going too fast now because of the (most likely header setup) temperature has dropped significantly. So, in other words, your car is saying its exhaust is way too cold for the o2's liking and cant find the right temerature it wants to operate at. Your tune will have to be altered slightly on how it checks the temperature so its less tempermental. Or, you could always do the ultimate "fix" and just delete the codes. I have read and seen where people have done this and actually fix the issue. This doesnt mean its an actual fix, it just means that it wont run the car in "open loop" causing your car to run rich.


If you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask. I have battled this issue for almost two years. I fixed the issue by going through all these things. I wish you the best at beating the dreadful 1153 and 1133 codes that kicked my *** for so long.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:00 PM   #2
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what can you tell me about the p0133 code?

i never had an issue with all these sensor problems when i added lt's, ypipe and catback.

last month i redid the ypipe, because it was a pos, and now ive had like 6 different codes thrown.

Had all of them deleted and got brand new corvette rear o2 sensors and everything was fine for 3 weeks and then i got the p0133.

Im almost 100% sure that there is no leaks anywhere in the exhaust, the shop is a reputable one and do great work.

I have one good working o2, so should i be fine or should i just sell the pos and get another car, im having nothing but trouble with this car.
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Old 07-27-2008, 01:58 PM   #3
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Hey sorry for the late response, im having computer problems and being in Iraq isnt helping. Did you get this issue resolved or you still need the help? Let me know.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2fun View Post


4.) Gaskets -- Many reasons for this is a recent/older header installation. Many people try and reuse gaskets. Just dont do it, if you think it might be a gasket that has burned out, replace it. Another thing you have to be worrysome about is if your have recently done a big bottom out. By that i mean scraping... If you have, you can possibly damage the header itself to where it doesnt quite meat up with header to gasket to engine installation. Therefore resulting in exhaust leak. Try pushing on the collector (when its cold) to the inside and out of the car to make sure it cant rattle. If it can you got major problems and a code is the least of your worries.
Define Major Problems.
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Old 08-06-2008, 12:55 PM   #5
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someone needs to sticky your first post here. This all needs to be stickied, so people have an immediate way of getting to solving this problem
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:58 AM   #6
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Good post addicted. I was throwing P1153's (passenger side) and while I would monitor the activity, I could see that it would "stick" in one position, especially at idle. I turned off the code and was happy for about 1 year. Yesterday (in Ca.), I went to have the car smogged and failed for high HC's at idle (~850). I passed easy at 2500 rpm. My cam is not too radical Intake:219, 0.560, Exhaust 221, 0.550 (for 1.7:1) but I am running 1.8:1 rockers. LSA is 113 The cited overlap (cam card) is -5.7. I have LT's and good heads. The motor has less than 10K.

To compound the problem I have an ugly driveway and have hit the exhaust on the passenger side several times until I learned the "magic path" where I can clear without hitting.

Is is safe to assume that the high HC's mean "rich"? If so should I order the vette rear O2 sensors because they run hotter? I will also check for exhaust leaks in that there have been some "hits".

Thanks for your post and service -
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:01 PM   #7
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its funn im throwing all these odes in my car but my car is runningas usual gas milage has been the same 220 miles to a tank all city driving....i thrw seven codes but they have not ....affected my driving or my performance that i can notice....thats why i am hesitant to troubleshoot them....its just aannoying i was going to get the o2 sims but i dont know that they will remove all these codes
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Old 07-22-2011, 02:20 AM   #8
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+1 for sticky request. i did 4 seperate searches before finally finding this! thanks for your experience! i just bought the car no codes when i got it. he replaced the drivers o2 that week before and after showin off for a week to friends i tossed p1133 and p1153. the scaner at napa sucked and was vague (lead me to maf) i do have a exhaust leak ill fix that and see first
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:41 PM   #9
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these codes come on for 2days and then off for 1day and back and forth.. my idle kinda sucks so could that be the problem?
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Old 09-28-2011, 03:52 PM   #10
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maybe i mised it but what year rear Corvette o2's shul we want to look for?
& I know you stated no perfence to brand.. i was going to go with bosh but can any one chime in on witch is the best performing?

i know it's importent to get factory on some / most of the outher Sensors becuse the values need to be titer on gm's & ford's & if you run the cheep import ones you will be eternity chasing gremlins! :/
Thanks in advance

Ps I'm not throwing any codes, My bank 2 is just geting a litil slow.
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:00 PM   #11
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^^ bosch 13111 ^^
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2fun View Post
Hey sorry to hear that your having such large issues with this code. Thank god you got people like me who have spent literally thousands in order to find out how to stop this issue. Im going explain to you how to trouble shoot it. I cant say I am going to fix your issue. But, this is definatly a good place to start.

1.) Bad o2's -- It is pretty common for these things to be a little finiky. If they are old, just replace them. I know $75 a pop is a bit pricy, but dont just buy one. Buy a set if the ones your replacing are old. If one is going out, the other is shortly behind. I dont really have a preferance so choose at your own will.

If your o2's are good and you know this by trouble shooting (switching sides) and your still getting codes keep going down the list of 2,3,4,5,6.

Some people have been having issues because of stock Delco's dont switch as fast as the rear Corvette o2's (usually after a header installation). So, an option is the rear Corvette o2's. Another added bonus is with the longer cable compared to the Camaro cable. This works especially well if you have headers because of the relocation of the hole in the header itself. An o2 shouldnt cost you more then 75 bucks and can pick them up almost any automotive store.

2.) Heater Wrap -- I personally didnt do this option. Many people have tried this and from what I have mostly read, this does not fix the majority of the issues. Secondly, I can see this greatly reducing the life of a ceramic header so I didnt do it. It is an option, not one that I would recommend, but an option nonetheless.

3.) Exhaust Leak -- It is possible, even the SMALLEST pin hole of a leak can throw off your o2 making it think its bad because its getting too lean of a "smell" causing to make your side run richer. Having an exhaust leak will also lower your temperature in that side of the exhaust. So make very sure this is not an issue. Your best option on checking this is getting the car on a lift and go over every square inch of the exhaust. Do not take any shortcuts with this, it could save you alot of money and time. Solutions can vary from tac weld, clamp, ect ect... if the hole is too big you may have to replace the exhaust system entirely use your best judgement on that though.

4.) Gaskets -- Many reasons for this is a recent/older header installation. Many people try and reuse gaskets. Just dont do it, if you think it might be a gasket that has burned out, replace it. Another thing you have to be worrysome about is if your have recently done a big bottom out. By that i mean scraping... If you have, you can possibly damage the header itself to where it doesnt quite meat up with header to gasket to engine installation. Therefore resulting in exhaust leak. Try pushing on the collector (when its cold) to the inside and out of the car to make sure it cant rattle. If it can you got major problems and a code is the least of your worries.

5.) Electrical -- Make sure that you go under your car and visibly check all the wiring that touches the o2 all the way back to your computer. Even if a wire is crimped, it could have been damaged. Check for burns, wear and tear, and even possibly missing wiring for you lowered guys. Now, im no electrician but i have a friend that is very savy with electronics to find out if all my wires were getting power. Make sure your getting enough power through your wires. If anyone has the spec's on that please post below for the "electrical buddy".

6.) Tune -- If you have tried the other alternatives this could very well be your problem. Sometimes the insufficent switching is going too fast now because of the (most likely header setup) temperature has dropped significantly. So, in other words, your car is saying its exhaust is way too cold for the o2's liking and cant find the right temerature it wants to operate at. Your tune will have to be altered slightly on how it checks the temperature so its less tempermental. Or, you could always do the ultimate "fix" and just delete the codes. I have read and seen where people have done this and actually fix the issue. This doesnt mean its an actual fix, it just means that it wont run the car in "open loop" causing your car to run rich.


If you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask. I have battled this issue for almost two years. I fixed the issue by going through all these things. I wish you the best at beating the dreadful 1153 and 1133 codes that kicked my *** for so long.
Hey, I am having these codes pop up for a few months now. I took it to the dealer, to get the exact diagnoses, and fix it. Dealer made a big long list of parts to replace, for 1600 bucks. He wanted to replace the 2 front o2 sensors, the maf sensor, the fuel filter, the spark plugs, spark plug wires. I decided to buy the parts for about 800 bucks and replaced them. Problem went away for 1 month, then started up again. I replaced the vacuum lines and pcv valve, inspected the wiring, and all grounds. I inspected the exhaust for leaks. I think the dealer was just playing guessing games at my expense. I paid them 134 dollars to just look at it, and give me a crappy diagnoses. Now after spending that 134, plus 800 for parts I am back where i was with the codes popping up.
I took it to a emmisions shop, and they charged 45 bucks to look at it. They suggest I go to the dealer and see if they might be able to flash the ecm with any updates. They also say that it may be possible that a gasket may be causing vacuum leaks.
I repalced the parts with stock GM parts, the spark plugs, wires and maf sensor were not in need of replacement, so that was money wasted. I also reseated the ECM connectors. The check engine light and the codes are not popping up currently but they will pop at any time. Maybe in a day or 2, or a week. They stay on for a day or 2 then disappear. A very intermittant problem and very annoying. I guess I am headed to the dealer to spend thousands on diagnosis, and more guess work at my expense.
One thing I am curious about. How exactly can I check for exhaust leaks? I guess I might jack it up and hold an incense stick smoking and see if a leak blows the smoke around. Is there a sure fire method for the exhaust leak check?
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:33 PM   #13
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Mark, do you have headers? If so the only cure is to delete the insufficient O2 sensor codes.

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Old 07-29-2012, 08:10 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ K View Post
Mark, do you have headers? If so the only cure is to delete the insufficient O2 sensor codes.

Russ Kemp
Yepper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2fun View Post

6.) Tune -- If you have tried the other alternatives this could very well be your problem. Sometimes the insufficent switching is going too fast now because of the (most likely header setup) temperature has dropped significantly. So, in other words, your car is saying its exhaust is way too cold for the o2's liking and cant find the right temerature it wants to operate at. Your tune will have to be altered slightly on how it checks the temperature so its less tempermental. Or, you could always do the ultimate "fix" and just delete the codes. I have read and seen where people have done this and actually fix the issue. This doesnt mean its an actual fix, it just means that it wont run the car in "open loop" causing your car to run rich.
There's quite a bit of wrongness in this paragraph.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
There's quite a bit of wrongness in this paragraph.
Agreed. Not sure why people tend to follow homebrew fix-its instead of referring to the FSM. http://www.ls2.com/boggs/dtcs/DTC%20P1133.htm
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Agreed. Not sure why people tend to follow homebrew fix-its instead of referring to the FSM. http://www.ls2.com/boggs/dtcs/DTC%20P1133.htm
No, actually the wrongness in that paragraph has little or nothing to do with any "homebrew fix-its".
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:31 AM   #17
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ok im at a loss. after sitting for just over a year i started my ws-6 up and had a tps and 02 heater malfunction code. after swapping out the tps and both 02s i received a new code, this dreaded 1133. soon after the 1153 appeared. i had replaced my old stock 02s with bosch oe replacements. i have since swapped out my extentions and the 02s with ac delcos and delphis. still have the codes. im at a loss. my car has long tubes, but i have had this set up for almost 7 years. my battery did die while it sat, but it runs great even with the codes... my mileage is just in the dump. at idle my rpms fluctuate to almost stalling to 1100 until it heats up. also, my fuel pressure is at 57 lbs from idle through wot. i have a high flow racetronix fuel pump and from the info ive gathered i think thats right. any insight on what i should check next or a possible answer from my shotty description would be appreicated.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:31 AM
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